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Here is a common cause of aluminum shavings in the pan, a bolt that is too long for the job is used to secure the thermostat housing. It makes contact with the back of the chain guide and if the bolt is long enough can bend the chain guide and and force the chain to eat into the top of the guide. These pics were taken of an freshly rebuilt L28 with perhaps and hour running time on it.

Um, correct me if I'm wrong. The seller set a reserve, the minimum price that they would be willing to sell for. The high bidder got close just not quite there. BAT is covering the difference to hit the reserve. What should the seller care who is paying them, they got their minimum price...had the high bidder hit the reserve would the seller still be refusing to complete the sale?

I figured I would let the cat out of the bag. From September 2020 at the unveiling, I thought that Nissan finally designed a Z I would want to buy new. I was too young to buy an S30 or S310 new. I was young and broke when the Z31 and Z32 came out, and I never was really taken by the Z33 or Z34. Yes, the RZ34 is a Z34 with a new wrapper, but I really liked the heritage touches. To me it looks more like a GT car and less boy racer. When I talked to a couple of Nissan people during the pre-sales road shows, they confirmed New Sight Orange would be coming. The first Z I remember was a 260Z in New Sight Orange. It was owned by a former NASA test pilot, and I lived down the street from him. A friend's father bought the car and got it back on the road. My friend got to enjoy it for a few years before the car was hit by an uninsured motorist. My first Z, a 73 was originally New Sight Orange, though someone with questionable taste had it repainted a color similar to Metallic Gold, though it looked worse than a MAACO paint job. I still have that car and hope to return it to New Sight Orange some day. I was excited to hear that Nissan was holding to its word that orange was coming back, but my excitement diminished when I learned it was on the Heritage Edition only with a sticker of $62K (plus whatever the dealers think they can charge for a special edition). So I set about looking for an alternative. I noticed that dealers were finally coming off sticker price for the Z. On the other hand most of those Zs were Gun Metallic. While I don't worry too much about color, I didn't really want grey. No blue Zs with manuals were popping up nearby, but finally a Z in Sport trim showed up at one of the closest dealers sporting Ikazuchi Yellow Pearl paint. I took it for a test drive, and the wife loved it. It felt right for my new daily driver, so a couple of hours later I drove it home. The new Z has very good acceleration as one would expect with 400HP on tap. The steering feels extremely light at low speeds, but the feel improves as speed increased. With no limited slip, it's easy to spin the tire a little getting into traffic. The seats are comfortable, and the shifter is in easy reach. The clutch engages higher than I think it should, but I am just going to live with that. The blind spots are huge, but the blind spot warning system seems to work well. The view out the rear window is small, too. I have an Android phone, so one of the USB slots is taken by the phone if I want to use navigation. If you want more creature comforts, or if you are planning on tracking the car, go for the Performance trim. The yellow pearl paint stands out, but it doesn't look like a taxi, even with the black roof. I have experienced one problem with the car so far. Yesterday, the TPMS monitoring system lost communications with all 4 tires. I drove the car around for a while, and the system found the left front, though that didn't last. I guess I'll see how good the local service department is.

Grannyknot I am feeling pretty confident that you nailed my problem. I removed the bolt and the end of the bolt is worn down at an angle. The angle part is shiny. See 2nd pic.(2.5 mag.) Pic below shows the size of shavings compared to a dime. There were no shavings in the oil pump screen. I also cut the oil filter open and found no shavings. Do you think if I grind the bolt down by a 1/4" I will be good to go? Thank You to all who replied to my Help request. Its comforting to know that a great group of Z club people are standing by to help.

And if you click on the Fees link, it's dead. Edit - actually it's half-dead. You have to scroll down there yourself. But still nothing about withdrawing or changing your mind or penalties if you renege on the final sale. https://bringatrailer.com/how-bat-works/#seller-fees How Our Fees Work Sellers pay a $99 listing fee, with the option to add our Plus photo service for an additional $330. There are no other seller fees on BaT. Buyers pay a 5% fee on top of the final sale price to BaT, with a minimum of $250, and capped at $7,500. Contact us for pricing of our White Glove Service.

I would back up a little and ask some questions: Are you double dog sure the oil pan was free of debris after your recent rebuild? Maybe those fragments are chips that have been in there from before the rebuild. Did you have the head cut? Maybe those fragments are chips that weren't properly cleaned off the head after that process. Are you sure the fragments are metal? Maybe chips from an old head gasket being cleaned off the block or head? Or valve cover gasket even. Some of those have a metal core. While you had the oil pan off, did you take a look at the thrust bearing on the center main? How is the oil pressure? How does the engine sound and run? Any reason to believe there's something wrong inside? I'm not yet ready to jump to the conclusion that there's anything seriously wrong.

If it's not to late... Don't pull the housing. If you have concerns about this being the issue, pull the valve cover and look down along the back side of the chain guide and see if the tip of the bolt is pushing against it. I wouldn't mess with the thermostat housing if you don't have to. They're too prone to leaks to mess with unless you really have a compelling reason to do so. And besides........ The chain guide backing plate is steel, not aluminum. If the stuff you found in the pan is non-ferrous, then it's not the metal from the chain guide.

Fuse box. If you don't have a cover on your fuse box, copy the picture below to your computer and consider printing it: Or this: What I see in your photo is that someone put on some butt splices to connect wires. Unfortunately some people hack into wiring harnesses like that. You could tap into another circuit, but since you don't seem to have much electrical knowledge, I suggest you don't. Most people don't know how to splice into existing circuits properly, and that causes more issues. It's kind of like the problem you have now. Amongst other problems you can create is that you could cause a fuse to blow more often if there is more of a load than the circuit was designed for. The First Rule of Holes: When you want to get out of a hole, the first thing you should do is stop digging. There are references in the downloads section that include a PDF of the factory service manual. The BE section has some good information on the electrical system. If I can remember, I'll also upload a clean scan of the wiring diagrams I did from my copy of the FSM. Diagnose the circuits. Do you know how to use an electrical meter? If not, find some Youtube videos to start learning. Today is a great day to learn something new. You don't have a bezel. Here's the bezel: https://zcardepot.com/products/map-lamp-light-bezel-240z?_pos=1&_sid=bd9927824&_ss=r My guess is that you're also missing the screws. https://zcardepot.com/products/map-light-bezel-screw-240z Keep posting photos with your questions. It does help in composing responses.

A coin in the picture would give a size reference. Magnified or not. Might just be old shavings from before. You might check your oil pickup tube screen also. If you haven't already. And, if you're still worried check the oil pump for damage. If there's stuff in the filter it passed through the pump.

I suggest you pull the oil filter and open it, too. This is not a good sign.