Leaderboard

Lube the liveing daylights out of it, especially the outside bit that comes in contact with the striker. Operate by hand until it works like butter. Alignment wise, the C shaped opening into the striker where the door latch has to fit through as you close it is fairly close tolerance, as long as it go more or less straight into the striker you have that part right. It’s the in-out alignment that determines how your door fit flush wise. Will have to weather strip on to complete that alignment. And then if your door hinge pins are sloppy the door might have to be lifted a bit to get into the latch cleanly.

Try raising or lowering the receiver/strike plate slightly, sometimes the latch on the door will ride up and jam.

FOLLOW UP ON SERVICE: Here is a follow up on using Jay Zinc to rebuild my 2 turn signal switches and the hazard switch for my 73 240z. I am thrilled with not only his service, but also the response, keeping me consistently updated and his price. I send him two turn signal switches. One was in ok shape but wasn't working and the other looked like a disaster with broken handle, cut & missing wires, missing connectors etc. His prices vary depending on the work he is doing, and repairs/parts needed. On the terrible TS I opted for a full show restoration ($380) and for the one that just wasn't working, a general rehab and refurbishment ($150). I had him do the same on the hazard switch ($150). They look like brand new. He sent photos as his work progressed and highlighted defects before and after. Took him roughly a week to do all three items. he even sent me a choice of carriers and prices for shipping them back. Highly recommend him (thanks Jim Arnett for recommending him). I asked Jay for a list of services and here is his response. Contact him on Facebook under his name: Jay Zinc I'm limited to the 1970-78 Datsun Z/Nissan Fairlady Z for all dash switches. I can also restore/service center console switches (rear defrost, parking lamp, choke, etc) really any switches. As for pricing, it varies slightly depending on year/condition of the switch. I typically say "contact me for a quote".

I concur Ian. Jeff has a pair of solid rotor type (narrow) Sumitomo MK63 4-pot calipers, complete with the correct mounting kit - identifiable via the alloy plumbing elbows and flexi pipes. Your early Sumitomo MK63s use the Dunlop style ball-bearing bleed nipples (the bleed nipple 'squashes' a small BB against a small hole in the caliper to seal it) and there's a reverse dome on the end of the nipple to assist this. Swapping in an ordinary M10 1.0 valve won't do.

I'd swap the wheels first. Easiest and a possibility.

So, after driving the Z on & off this past week, I found that it would pop out of reverse. Earlier today there was no access to ClassicZ, so I did a google search on the topic & found a topic on Zcar, that linked your video on the topic. With that info it was clear that my shifter was not dropping back far enough to engage the reverse detent & have that little shifter play once properly engaged. 2nd & 4th engaged fine, however there was really no play in the shifter that would indicate full engagement even though it hadn't popped out of the forward gears. Final relief on the backside that allowed proper engagement. I removed small amounts & rechecked for engagement. Kept going until no marking was evident on the shifter. I also noted a nick on the front side of the rod, so I relieved that side ever so slightly. frontside relief

I had that connector marked as the buzzer on an old wiring harness I removed from my late 73. Factory buzzer sounded kinda like this, which is why it's not connected.

Great write-up and photo coverage. As someone who also lives in the north-east, it's great to see a project like this that looks 'real' in relation to my own experience (rotted wood, old timber, uneven concrete, dirt, and leaves). Hope you enjoy your upgraded workspace. Epoxied floors?