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The 280Z we are converting is a 1975. I've always been a huge SU fan and though some may make a case they are not as dependable, I've not actually found that to be the case. In fact when something needs to be addressed on the induction side, I'd much prefer the simpler diagnosing and repairs of SU's. When set up properly you can forget them for the most part. The pluses are they sound great, tip-in response is more lively, and the car is much more fun to drive. Admittedly, I'm biased having, owned over 20 early Z's with L-series engines and worked on countless others. Long live the SU's!

If the switch is disconnected from the brake pedal while the turn signal switch is in the neutral position, you should see 12VDC to ground at the points indicated below. If you don't, that means the switch was not rebuilt properly. Under those same conditions, you should have 12VDC to ground at the green wire in the picture above. Please confirm that.

Jumper these two wires together by using an inertia switch. Mount the switch securely to the dash. That will provide power to the fuel pump at key ON. The switch should cut power if you have an accident. I think the 6 pin connector is different from the one sold at Vintage Connections. I used some that I purchase on Mouser.com. Sorry, part number for the connector isn't readily available. If you want to get an non-generic inertia switch, you could get this: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3970509&cc=1427576&pt=10756 and pair it with this connector: https://www.clipsandfasteners.com/Inertia-Fuel-Shut-Off-Switch-Harness-Connector-p/a23180.htm?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwz42xBhB9EiwA48pT73NwDLlIv8yJGuM8TKHISt7fAUw23HCsEvFF2M9k7Fhdvmvwe0MfPhoCoIgQAvD_BwE You would want to fashion a bracket for it, though. Since it has normally open and normally closed contacts, you could wire it to a light to tell you if you need to reset the switch if it has been activated.

Gotta get busy……. Carbs are waiting on the Fairlady!

Fender mount diagram:

Proper, legit tow hook…..

Here ya go…. https://bringatrailer.com/2013/11/21/bat-exclusive-the-18th-earliest-surviving-datsun-240z/

Does anyone know the details of the past infamy? Tried to find it on BAT but their records only seem to go back to 2015. The backstory makes the car more interesting. https://bringatrailer.com/datsun/240z/?q=240z

Join our club. Put those SUs on a 240. I don't think my stock efi supplies the fuel when it could. It seems like a bottleneck compared to the carbs. The carbs get in the redline and won't stop until you decide. Efi seems to have a governor built in somehow with all the components. I'm talking stock stuff, no work arounds. On newer cars and bikes you have to re configure the ecu to get all the juice squeezed out.

I have a nice set of SUs that I’ve been considering putting in my 77 and dumping the EFI. Why? Maybe because I’m crazy. I must be because my engine purrs with the EFI. Only a sick bastard would fix something that isn’t broken. The idea of carbs appeals to me for some reason. A person on this forum I highly respect told me I’d be making a mistake and making my car less reliable and less easy to own and use. I’d love to see how this works out.

IMG_7311.MOV My Helper…… we moved away as soon as finished making smoke!!

Almost feels like cheating……

Sorry about that CO, the car had been frankencared at some point in it's life, I bought it for the early parts that are on there but not everything is original year wise.

Right - I've been in the garages all day today. I finally had a chance to measure up the Fender Mirror positions from my ZG, and this is what I measured. Bear in mind that I measured to the EDGES of the base ( the plastic gasket that goes between the paint side of the body and the "stem" of the mirror ). I measured to the FRONT of the base for the front-to-rear dimension and to the widest part of the base for the side-to-side dimension. This will not give you the centres for the holes ( I wasn't going to take my mirrors off to measure the hole positions ) but it would allow anyone fitting a set to get the Factory positions by using the gaskets as templates. I think the main point is that they ARE indeed NOT mounted in the same measured position on each side. I can see that this is because they work better that way. The mirror on the passenger side ( in an RHD car ) is further toward the rear of the car and further away from the edge of the Wing / Fender to Bonnet / Hood joint. With the limited adjustability of the mirror faces, this positioning must allow for a better angle of vision I suppose. I would recommend that anyone fitting them to an LHD car either transposes these dimensions from the RHD configuration, or thinks long and hard about where they are going to drill their holes. Apologies for the crap 'etch-a-sketch' style line art........... Alan T.

That's a nice looking trailer. Who makes it?