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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/11/2024 in all areas

  1. I spent many hours searching the internet and looking at vinyls, and I am pleased to have found a vinyl that looks similar to the original one for the headliner. I wasn't able to salvage my original vinyl, however, I think the headliner I made today looks quite similar. Original: As I said before, unfortunately, I wasn't able to glue the old vinyl to new foam without getting a lot of wrinkles: Unlike the old vinyl, the new vinyl has a cloth backing which makes it lay flatter and makes it stronger. I sprayed the contact adhesive out of a gun similar to a paint gun. The gun was purchased for doing this and it worked very well. The new vinyl: The finished product: While I had adhesive in the gun, I installed the new fire wall pads. I will put up some pictures of those being installed tomorrow.
  2. I could have started with 1500 but it would have taken a lot longer to get through the orange peel.đŸ˜„ I have some Meguiars #7 and a black foam pad I've never used, maybe I'll do some tests, Thanks. I got a bunch of stuff installed today, This is the only effective way I've found to install the T/C rods, come to think of it, I might have picked it up from someone here.
  3. Just remember to run the third terminal to ground.
  4. That’s a good approach. One variable at a time.
  5. The vinyl is "Ottertex", and it is sold in a few places. I got mine from fabricwholesaledirect.com. It is 54" wide and sold by the running yard. I bought three running yards because it was so inexpensive - it was only $9.99 a running yard. To ship it, they folded over and over into a square. When I got it, I immediately unpacked it. The folds and creases were visible even after I spread it out on a floor. Then, I rolled it up onto and existing roll of foam material that I bought previously. This was a few days ago. Yesterday, when I unrolled it from the foam, the fold lines were still visible. So, before gluing it to the foam, I used a steamer to relax the vinyl in those areas. It helped, but they were still visible. I was concerned that they would be visible after gluing. I was glad to see and very relieved that they disappeared when I glued it to the foam. Hi res photo: I think I am going to switch to this vinyl for the A-pillars and windshield header because it looks more like the original than the vinyl I bought previously.
  6. For your possible interest, someone - Eastwood, I think, sells a 'comb' for straightening out heat exchanger fins.
  7. Hi gang, So I pulled my injectors, put them all in individual cups and cranked the engine for a bit and all seem to have the exact same level and spray pattern (see video here). I did however notice cylinder 1's injector connector teeth had a pretty solid amount of green corrosion on it which is weird considering these are only a year or so old with brand new harness connectors. I did also notice small black particles in the gas coming out of the injectors - I'm not sure if that is just dirt from them resting on the head while waiting to be put in the cups or not. Long story short here is where we are: I filled up the injector's plug area with caig de-oxit and let it sit all night and ill remove the corrosion this morning I will get a new engine bay fuel filter just in case it's not just dirt sitting on the engine intake plenum while they were resting there Switch injector #3 with a different one to see if the darker plug on cylinder #3 darkens darkens on the cylinder with the moved injector or not
  8. Finished up the header, added the double jacks. I went 2 row 16" OC for the structural screws, based on the advice from the local lumber yard I bought the LVL from. I don't think my drill would have liked 3 rows, I had to stop halfway & let the drill cool down, even with lubricating the screws. Joist hanger placed on the ridge beam. Started putting up foam insulation for the walls & roof
  9. I would go with an MSA style box if sound matters to you at all. The factory location is pretty poor.
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