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So the other day Cody came over and we reassembled his wiper mechanism Now I just have 3 more to do...

I think I am pretty much done, some how managed to screw up the other sugar scoop so have to re paint that as well, but other than that the buffing and polishing is done. Now this is by by no means a professional buff job, there still some spider webs that I can't get rid of, so Dave I recommend you find a good buff guy to give it that last little bit of correction. I have never been able to get spider webs out and I don't want to try something more aggressive on someone else's car. It is amazing what a guy who does buffing for living can pull out. I got the car off the rotisserie and back onto jack stands, I think I will take tomorrow off, give my shoulder a break.

Another round. This time, I only shuffled some side flange shims. I removed the .3 mm from the left side and replaced it with a .2 mm. Then, I swapped out the .4 mm on the right side for a .5 mm. So, the right side has 2 .5 mm instead of a .4 and .5 mm. So, with the OEM shim, + .020" of extra shims and the side flange shims as just described, the back lash was a touch over .006". I put the marking compound on thin again with brush strokes the same as before: One pic showing wipe patterns on both sides of the ring gear teeth: And the rest - note that beyond the obvious displacement of the paint that reveals the tooth surface, the brush strokes are "erased" further out, indicating possible tooth to tooth contact there (or super close proximity) as well.

The car drives just fine after tuning it up a bit. Can't believe the difference in spark between the points and the Pertronix, as viewed with the colortune. Have a slight vacuum leak at the butterfly shaft on the fwd carb, but that's a battle for another day. Thanks again for the help, everyone.

I would do the one six personally, that tiny godzilla is ugly as f.

On the outer hatch seal, that is the OE configuration. MSA also sells a modified vesion with a full bulb seal all around. I made my own version years ago before MSA offered one.

A little more tinkering So I used an old hotel key to help get the clips on Thanks @Namerow It also helps to lift the scupper from the underside in order to get the clips on Here are the pin clips that come with the badges from Resurrected Classics I applied a tiny bit of urethane sealant at each post too. Then I covered them with towels and added some weight overnight So here's a question, I have the upper outer hatch seal. It has a bulb on it. But the lower side seals are squarish. Is this correct?

Outstanding results! Now we're all waiting to see it trimmed out and sitting in the driveway in the sunshine.

I got the D/S, roof, hatch and all the smaller pieces done today, just have the P/S and hood to go.

How do you know the release bearing is on the right way. If it were reversed it wouldn't be cutting those grooves into the pressure plate fingers. I'm not totally sure it's backwards but if it were reversed it would work the way you expect it to I believe. Also the pressure plate and flywheel look to have been hot at some point. I wouldn't run either of those if it was me. I would surface the flywheel or go to a lighter unit and replace the clutch entirely. It's a lot of work to get there again and the parts aren't crazy expensive.

The one-six and the Godzilla are similar but not identical. The Godzilla has two wheels, a 24-1 and a single tooth. The one-six apparently only has the 24-1 wheel. And the one-six is a Hall effect, the GRW is VR. You'd need to know what your engine management system can do and what you want it to do to make the right choice.

Edit - my mistake. The Godzilla guy needs to up his advertising game. Those pictures are bad and not everybody will want Barney on their engine.

Glad to help. But out of curiosity... I believe more modern materials are better in pretty much every way than that old brown stuff. Why would you not use current age glass reinforced board material? I mean, I get originality, but in an area like that where it is completely invisible it seems unnecessary. You can get the new glass FR-4 in black color solder mask. Would that be "good enough"?

Yeah, think that's better, best would be on the outer side of the flywheel.. but i read that's not very often done..

Those patterns look great, your diff should run very quiet.

This photo is correct.

I agree with Charles. If the throw out bearing is reversed it will fail. The rounded side should contact the fingers not the flat side. I had a machine shop install one in reverse and the bearing froze up and welded to the fingers. The wear on your fingers is not right……the PO reversed the throw out bearing. If I were you, I would buy a new Exedy clutch, disc, collar, bearing and pilot bushing, then you will know it’s right. Just make sure you know what flywheel you’re running, and make sure the rounded side ( not the flat side) of the bearing contacts the fingers. 240Z or 280Z pressure plates (225mm) are a different bolt pattern than a 2plus2 (240mm) flywheel.

Hmmm. I wonder if it is a permissions thing. I will have a look to see if I can resolve. Evidently, there are no permissions levels that are suitable to allow others to expand the sections. So, I have opened them all up.

Well... she's blasted and tent is disassembled ... now to finish the remaining rust repair and test fit everything. I hope to have a roller in March sometime... I did not try to blast the roof section. I'll be using the Eastwood Contour SCT instead when it's time ... It looks a lot better than I thought it would actually. Cleaned up nice !!! And started test fitting some of the ApexEngineered bits...Here are some teasers...Full review to follow... And last but not least...Black Friday BC Racing weld on coilovers showed up... right on time 😉

Yes, if I end up getting a 240mm flywheel, I’ll need to get the matching clutch and pressure plate. Unless I get the Fidanza, which is 240mm, but apparently can accommodate either a 240mm or 225mm clutch and pressure plate, which is cool. But before I drop $500 on a setup like that, I’m going to call a few shops and see if I can get my existing 225mm flywheel resurfaced and lightened. Will prolly be significantly cheaper than an aluminum flywheel, and add some performance gains. Then I’ll just pair it with a decent (exedy maybe) clutch/pressure plate, and then go through the whole process of making sure I have the correct SLEEVE, ugh. This is prolly my best bang for the buck to eek out some performance gains, using quality parts, without breaking the bank. The trifecta! We’ll see if I can make it happen… Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk