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Here are a couple of good products for you - a high zinc oil and great transmission fluid for our old gearboxes. The old paint might benefit from a good clay bar treatment to get rid of old wax, dirt and other buildup, followed by a non-wax polish such as AutoMagic Awesome Gloss, topped off by the ceramic coat or wax of your choice. The clay bar process might leave a few swirl marks so the Awesome Gloss is a way to polish them out.

+1 on the Wesco Roadster Belts. Here they are installed on my car, using the OE mount points and bolts. Very comfortable to use, all the convenience of a modern 3-point retractable belt.

And if you do go with Wesco, buy the roadster belts, https://www.wescoperformance.com/noname.html. Get the 11 inch sleeves and hardware ($10 extra per side). I have Wesco roadster belts in both of my cars.

Wesco Performance sells seat belt extensions... www.wescoperformance.com Better yet, get them to supply full replacements for your OE belts. If you need extra length, they can probably work with you on that. FWIW, your 50-year-old OE belts will probably be worthless at collision speeds beyond 20 mph. The problem lies with edge fraying and material degradation (sunlight, sir pollution).

Ok, so like many of us I have been dealing with a previous owner that put a driver side oem mirror on the passenger side. As expected looks close, but useless for actually seeing anything. Well I was contemplating getting a friend to 3d print a new "base" so the stalk would align correctly when you flip the glass around. i was digging through some old posts here about the angle of the stalk etc and came upon this one: and down about halfway was an ebay listing from 2021 showing this mirror and what intrigued me was the RH and part number ending in 2 rather than 1. So i worked out a deal with the guy to get the last one he had even though as @Patcon you wrote "noticed his ad stating won't work on the passenger side". Well my thinking was if this truly is a RH made mirror for those markets then what they mean is the same as what we deal with, you can't buy 2 and flip one to the other side. So i took a shot and BINGO! it actually leans towards the glass a perfect match to the typical driver side ones most of us have. I was so excited to post I forgot to clean my wife's cat hair from the couch! So moral to this story is if you look for that part number you can find the RH OEM mirror, it just takes some luck.

With as curious and ingenious as you are, you didn't explore their site? https://www.vintageconnections.com/products/2-8mm-spade-terminals

Here is the 9-pin connector: https://www.vintageconnections.com/products/2-8mm-connectors?variant=46131774095681 The best thing to do is to change out the lights on the circuit to LEDs and derate the fuse to 10A or less. I really don't think that connector was designed for over 10A.

Buy a can of carburetor spray. Some 400 grit sand paper and clean them up. Doesn’t take that long to do. Slow down and be patient. You are not there yet but you Have to be Patient. Finally making positive steps. Still a long way to go. This won’t be fixed in a days time. Step by step friend.

Many Thanks! I didn't realize the lower catch was adjustable. I'll take care of that tomorrow. 😁

Not great pics because it's in the dark garage, but hopefully these will help. If not, let me know and I can take some out in the sun next time. Sorry for the dark. This is the front leading edge. Rear trailing edge trying to show the channel that the weatherstrip fits into. My corner is torn off:

You seem to be just fine with the coil and resistor you have. Save your money. On the plugs, Its just that you have purchased a few new sets of plugs in the past. You could pick out the best 6 you have unless you threw them all away. If you want to buy another set, thats up to you. Nothing wrong with it except money. Just keep driving it. It should get better.

When you get up to the 280z, both the inner and outer wheel bearings are sealed inside and out, a bit of grease between the seal and bearing is all that is needed.

Here's the link to the car. Looks like brakes have been addressed, including booster. You might think about double-checking the stuff that's been worked on, like the heads. Head bolts, valve lash, etc. Not clear how many miles were put on it after the work, or the quality of the work, or what shape the car was in in 2018. You never know. I don't recognize the name of the shop. Not criticizing, just saying better safe than sorry. And, inexpensive stuff that might be on last legs, like clutch master and slave cylinders are worth considering. Good luck, looks like a nice one. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-datsun-240z-274/

Hard to say not knowing the air density in Panama. Try just 2 turns down and see how that feels. You can always go more if needed. Sure would be nice to know what the previous owner has the timing set at. If that has never been adjusted.

I have loosen the bolts and moved around the channel guide and it probably is working. One of the bolts doesnt align but window glides up. May be i need to keep fiddling as there is definitely nothing broken and I did not added anything extra.

This stuff work great on old rubber items and door seals, Honey Goo Holistic Rubber Care https://www.kleenflo.com/products/809.html Strangely the website say "NEW" but its been around for years. Hopefully is not a new formula that's not as good as the original.

I'll have to fiddle. Add it to the list lol. There's probably a broken pin and roller guide from an arm on the regulator sitting down there too.

That's my read. I'm not sure I understand the concept either, but it seems to work. In ancient times, wheel bearing grease had strands of fabric or fiberglass included in the mix. Made it stringy with the intention of those strands would get caught up in the balls and pull grease into the bearings as they spun. As grease was expelled from the bearings, it would be pulled back in with the tangle of strands. However, newer wheel bearing greases that I've bought (newer being in the last ten years?) do not seem to have those strands included. Seems to be a smooth paste. Couple theories, ideas, possibilities? Maybe the grease melts into a liquid during use (when hot) and flows in and out of the bearing balls with ease? Maybe the grease just stays put where you originally smeared it? I don't really think either of those last two really happen, but just tossing out ideas.

Being so far away and according to how much you are committed to this car I would consider it very seriously. IMO of course.

That is an easy fix, remove the licence plate lamp unit, loosen the 2 10mm head screws for the latch and push it up a 1/8" tighten the screws back down, try closing the hatch. Over the years the latch can migrate down after so many openings and closings.

That was one of my most enjoyable and memorable days of my life, my friend!

Don't change two things at a time!!! Make the change Gundee suggested and drive the car! Only one change at a time. Always!

Drove me Nuts… I unplugged it!!!turn signal flasher

Drove me Nuts… I unplugged it!!!