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Bad things happen. The alternator won't be getting a battery sense line, so it will crank up the voltage. Starters? I'm not sure about. Frontier refers to Nissan Frontier (from 2004 or earlier). The alternator from the 2.4L version will fit on the Z mounting bracket, and the pulley works with the fan belt. It's not exactly a drop in replacement, but you can get "new" alternators for the Frontier instead of a remanufactured one. You also have to buy a connector to fit the alternator and add a 2-pin connector to that in order to plug into the engine harness. In a properly functioning electrical system, the voltage should be between 13.5 and 14.5 volts with the car running. A bad alternator, voltage regulator, or battery will affect the voltage. I use a clamp DC ammeter along with my multimeter to tell me if it's the charging system or battery. A low voltage and no current output from the alternator says bad charging system. A low voltage and several amps of current tell me it's the battery. The alternator would not cause issues with your starter. The damaged insulation on the conductor between the solenoid and starter indicates that the starter is pulling too much current. The current source would be the battery since the engine isn't turning the alternator at a speed to generate much power during starting. It could indicate insulation failure in the windings of the starter motor.

I haven't swapped rails yet. @Patcon and I are working through EFI and other diagnoses of the stock system at the moment. But I do plan to switch to an aluminum rail at some point, at which time the later style FPR would be desirable. Having not found any recent discussion on the subject, it seemed like a good time to ask for ideas. Lots of good ones here.

I got this all squared away. Thanks for all the help. Plus a local z guy that’s on here helped me out. I put 75 miles on the car today and now I’m motivated again. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The generic grommet off Amazon will do. Sliced it, then super glued the seam back together. Tie wrap to keep it snug around the harness

I installed the Z Car Garage brake kit on the Z Replica yesterday. Boy, everything should install this smoothly. The kit comes with a 60 page PDF file with complete step by step instructions for the installation. I was able to pull the PDF up on my phone and follow the instructions conveniently. Instructions not only had very clear pictures, but also included torque values and thread lock instructions at each step. Also, the machining is BEAUTIFUL and the quality is excellent. The parts arrived in three nicely packed boxes. The parking brake set-up is also pretty cool. The only issue I ran into during the assembly was that the previous front brakes on this car had the Toyota caliper set-up, and the 4 bolts that secure the disc to the hub were longer than the stock bolts. As a result, I had find the correct bolts in my stash. Fortunately, I had them on hand. You can see the bolt length difference in the third picture below. Other than that, a very straight forward install. Was able to complete the install in a day.

More details?Just ask if you have a question. I purchased the Gen 11 mini basic kit, which does not come with a compressor or brackets. I purchased the under hood kit from auto a/c but dont do it. The only thing you can use is the ac compressor bracket. The condenser is why too small for r134. I will give some detail on the pictures I posted. All the hard lines are vintage pre made U Bent them lines. They come in lengths from 12 to 60 inches. If you look at the #6 high pressure line from receiver drier you see 2 joggles in it. I had to use the 60 inch line which was 4 inches too long, You cab get stainless lines and make your own. But the cost of the fittings and welding or solder them on did not look fun to me. The condenser is a 24 x 16 from Vintage air you want the largest you can mount (r134 likes big condenser) Also when you mount it do not put it in upside down like I have seen some people do. You have hot gas coming in at the top which as it travels down removes the heat becomes a liquid.

Actually, I might have my ammeter signs backward. Could be S is going open, as SteveJ suggested. Anyway, my point was about the possibility of funky wiring.

@the_tool_manI have a relatively new Bosch FPR mated up to my 78 fuel rail with rebuilt injectors if you’re interested. The run time is less than 10 hours. Brought my car back to factory specs and decided to go a different route. The system was removed when I sent the engine to Datsun Spirit. If your interested send me a PM.

Yep, and it would make a lot of noise, too.

$650 That’s insane!!! What a deal

Okay, I'll readily admit that I didn't read every post in this thread with great care BUT: The insulation on the wire between the solenoid and the starter motor should NOT be burned to he!!... AND, looking at the bottom terminal on the solenoid, that nut and stud look to me like they have both overheated to an alarming degree! At a minimum you need to remove that wire from the solenoid and check everything for oxidation. I would also remove the charred insulation and check the wire inside. (And, if it were me, I'd probably not use that starter...) Just my opinion.

They paint salvage cars for me sometimes and do a lot of panel painting. Good guys and they turned out pretty good. $650 and I supplied the material. He did some prep work to augment mine and blocked everything to 500 wet.

Hahaha!!! Of course you can!!

I would think mixing different weights of the same make oil would be okay, but not ideal, or convenient. Here's a handy ZDDP chart if searching for another. I can't believe what oil costs nowadays! https://www.speedwaymotors.com/the-toolbox/zddp-content-chart-high-zinc-oil-list-brand-breakdown/32479

Good luck! I looked and looked for an alternative to the Reals. I did find a steel wheel in a 16x10, but it didn't clear my front calipers, and it was way too heavy.

Shouldn't you be looking for thr PR4052? The PR124 is the aftermarket for the 280Z 74-77. Both are 2.5bar spec.

Very Nice my friend! Love to see a shop that does the panel painting.

Worked on some glass today too Rear hatch decals @cgsheen1 Do you recognize these? Rear hatch etching Windshield etching. No tint strip Stripped the metal brackets off the door glass. I am going to send a load to the platers There are small white plastic washer sunder the bolts and washers to prevent over tightening to the glass I believe this is an anti theft device. The drivers door is off a later car and is much heavier than the passenger door I cut up an old rusty hatch. Here is what the layup looks like across the top of the hatch When I sound proofed the inside of the car I was careful enough and I got stuff all over the tool compartment tab rubber. So I scraped them back down and brushed some black plasti-dip on them. I also did that to the wire loom tabs along the floor boards, at the fuel tank and the tail light panel. I will get new tab covers for the ones in the engine bay

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