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I sure hope so after all the effort I've been putting in. Did the vapor side too, now just need to get all the hoses back in place then i'll do the deck and on to the mid section The kilmat stuff is pretty easy to work with, even the rolling wasnt all that bad. I just wish it was paintable but I keep telling myself to set expectations. I can get ahead of myself with all the great ideas to bring it back to fully original. Then reality sets in but i think i'm learning to live with the balance.

Here's a shot of a crusty old, that looks original, 76 compression rod end. Picture 187. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1976-datsun-280z-59/

It has to be a 4 cylinder Frontier or Xterra to have the correct pulley.

Covid eh? That sucks. I thought we were pretty much past that unpleasantry. Get well soon.

Remy seems to make good stuff. They make new alternators for some brands, I have a new (not reman'ed) Remy Gold on my vehicle, a 2003 Ford. It's been good for 35,000 miles, and I got it used from a salvage yard. Looks like only reman for your application though. But, if I was going to buy one I'd buy Remy. Check the other mainstream stores, maybe Napa or Autozone carry the brand. I had an OReilly Ultima on my Z and it failed. I got the warranty'ed replacement, put it on the shelf and installed a salvage yard 280ZX alternator. Those O'Reilly alternators tend to be junk. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1980,280zx,2.8l+l6,1209316,electrical,alternator+/+generator,2412 https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=37579&cc=1209316&pt=2412&jsn=383

Bingo! Had an old pice of angle iron and lucked into an odd shape that worked perfectly. I thought I'd be bending for 20 mins but only second attempt. First attempt was an L and there just wasn't enough clearance for the wingnut. This must have been an extra father's day gift cause I never expected it to be so easy lol. Finished work.

Torque spec for the torsion rod end nut - Page FA-2 of the manual says 33 to 40 ft-lbs. Basically, you should compress the rubber to the point where you have bottomed out against the metal sleeve that runs through the center and then torque to hold it there. Oh, and not totally sure, but it looks to me like you have the big washers on the torsion rod bushing installed backwards. They should have the convex side towards the rubber. Counter-intuitive, but that's the way they want it. Should be like this:

More from later.

Something different.

This is a couple of dollars at a hardware store and saves some trouble, rubber cap for plumbing. Sorry I can't remember the exact size but I'm 99% sure it was a 2 inch? The one one the nose is the 2", the smaller one over the shifting mechanism was just for pressure washing. Maybe 1 1/2"? I use a motorcycle jack but like jaymanbikes says above you have to really get it up high to clear everything coming out. I would buy the rubber seal that goes into the speedo connection too. After they get worn in and you remove the old one, when you go back it'll leak a little. Nissan still has the new ones for just a few bucks. I'll find the info and add it to this post in an edit. here's the part numbers for the speedo cable. I drove mine down with a 10mm deep socket. Another thing, the pilot bushing needs to be lubed up for some reason. I read it in the Tom Monroe How to Rebuild the Nissan L motor book, you put it between your thumb and your pointing finger, fill it with oil and pinch down until you see little drops "sweat" out the outer side. Good luck, it's easier than than you're probably thinking.

Good time to check the driveline U joints, on a Series 1 trans you can remove the shift lever without removing the console, check the shift lever bushings once trans is out, replace or have flywheel, if you can replace the pilot bearing (Orielly may loan you puller) if you replace it test the new one on the trans before installing, loosen fill plug on trans before removing from car, replace trans fluid (I like Redline), replace trans rear seal and look for other leaks, throw out bearing, pressure plate, trans rear mount, use a clutch disk locating pin. Check engine rear seal for leaks. Make sure trans is in gear when putting it back in. Sorry if these were obvious. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

No.. You can still buy the inner seal and outer O-ring from Nissan. Inner Seal = 32709-14600 Outer O-Ring = 32710-14600