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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/20/2023 in all areas

  1. Checking on an order status when I saw this. Pretty Cool. Belong to anyone you know?
  2. I would think 20-25k is starting to be low for a 280 in good shape
  3. I have Hagerty for my Zs. $40,000 agreed value on my '72. $10,000 agreed on my '77. This year's price was $191 up from $189 last year. A guy came up from Birmingham and valued the cars, took pics of the garage and the locks on the doors. Hard to beat their coverage, prices. I think I have 3 free flatbed tows a year. 3,000 miles a year per car max. I put maybe 500 on the 240 a year so I've built up an extra 10,000 if I decide to drive Route 66 a few times. Get YOM (year of manufacture) tags if your state allows. You pay once and that's it. Here's my '72 with YOM tag.
  4. Good timing on this question as I was just going to update the group on my progress. I havent actually put any of the hoses in yet as I got distracted once I saw the condition of the old sound deadening and wheel well. I figured that all needed to be dealt with first so I stripped the entire back of the car and went to town. Once I got it all up I found that most of it was just surface rust from trapped moisture. The wheel well had some small pitted spots and a few poke through but nothing big enough to get a finger through. Everything was sound so I got some POR 15 patch and paint and ground it all down, prepped it, filled it, POR painted it, sanded it and finally finished it with one stage spray cans since I don't have a sprayer or air supply or anything resembling professional gear. Before I get to before and after pictures, back to the hoses. I found that some of the supplied information just wasn't working for me so I sourced a few different items to better fit what I needed. I had started by looking for things pre-shaped for some of the funky bends before knowing the spring door trick (which is awesome). So I had already purchased from Z Car Depot the bent hose for the front vent. Since I had that in hand the rest of the shopping list diverted a bit from recommended. The biggest issue I had was that the 17 MM recommendation for the filler vent just would not fit. I had to get a 19 MM hose which now fits perfectly. So in summary here is my shopping list and what I had purchased from a length perspective, some out of need, some out of direct measurement. I also had a need for all new clamps as the PO had a hornets nest of crap everywhere. Hope this helps people starting from scratch. Now to the fun stuff, some pics!. Before Midway Done Next up the Kilmat I chose and then I'll start dealing with putting it back together and the tank. Will update group when I do.
  5. Get used to is. I always get comments or thumbs up when I drive mine. There much nostalgia with these vehicles. It’s odd there is much space inside the cabin compared to the overall size of the vehicle. Now that your got her on the road, what is your insurance game plan? I’m with USAA and they’re only covering $800 for the car so I’m moving to Hagerty’s. I’m told you can give them the value you want insured within reason and you’ll be covered. I’m going to put mine around 20k-25k just to be safe. It’s probably not worth that much but in three years with inflation we could see another 15% decline in our currency. Every day I’m shocked at prices when I buy things I haven’t bought in awhile. Many things are double what I paid just 2 years ago. Please stop the pain!
    • 39 downloads
    • Version 1.0.0
    This is a wiring diagram created in Adobe Illustrated and saved as a PNG file. It is a large graphic file. This does not include California specific or Automatic Transmission specific components. This is for Federal, Manual Transmission, and Factory Air Conditioned 280Zs.
    Free
  6. Drove it to work yesterday, I don’t plan on doing it daily. Left early to minimize traffic (5am) and to get a feel of driving at night. Driving home at 330pm was a different story. Thumbs up, folks saying they’ve always “wanted a 240” at red lights. My route led me near a high school, where teenagers wanted to race. Given the Rebello’s lope, I’m guessing I’m going to need to get used to that. It’s amazing to see how small an S30 is compared to Teslas.
  7. The front spindles were drilled for the Halda drive cable to pass through, with a specially-adapted hub bearing cap holding the (square) end of the cable so that it was forced to rotate with the wheels. The Haldas were geared to translate that wheel rotation into an accurate measurement of distance travelled per revolution. The Navigators were equipped with pre-set computations for different tyre selections. Note the special bearing cap and its tabs which were clamped firmly between the wheel and hub:
  8. OK, here we go. Please excuse the crappy graphics... My Y0901-54302 (it came to me as an 'ex-Monte Carlo' Works strut) measures as follows: Dimension 'A' (spindle/hub casting to centre of spring perch weld) = 240mm Dimension 'B' (centre of spring perch weld to top of damper retaining cap) = 115mm Strut tube diameter is 51mm Damper rod diameter is 22mm Spindle is drilled for Halda cable with outer cable connector welded to strut tube with steadying bands. This appears to be the 'early' type Works Tokico-built unit without gas charge to mitigate oil foaming, as seen slightly later. Can take any other measurements you need. Reference photos:
  9. My '77 has something very similar and it is the alarm switch for the hatch. There's one under the hood and both doors.
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