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Not a 78 owner but I know a little about this. 77 and 78 280Z's had side mount blades instead of the top mount used on 70 thru 76, all had the twin wire blade design. Also in 1977 it was mandated in the US that wiper arms and blades be black. Here are a couple of images from 1976 and 1977 280Z sales brochures. 1976 280Z with early style, unpainted SS twin wire blades and top mount arms, 1977 280Z with later style, black painted SS twin wire blades and side mount arms, When I was on the search a few years back for replacements (I had aftermarket plastic blades) I got a set of the later style blades and arms that I decided to use on my 1970, When I got them they has quite a bit of the original black paint that I had to remove. Turned out pretty good, most people wouldn't know that they are not correct for my car. Here's a couple of pics of mine for a better look at the difference of the 77/78 style.

Paint store and 88 two bedroom apartments in 11 buildings I'm stuck with "managing". Paint mixing, rental property, cylinder head repair, manicures and income taxes done here. Taxidermy work is seasonal.

You should start a Youtube channel. Paint store head porting in Alabama. I'd watch it.

Check out this spreadsheet walter moore put together. Distributor advance curves.xls

I bought a .460 Schneider cam kit in 2015 to put in my e31 that has the new bigger valves. I tried shrouding the valves and smoothing the intake runners. Am not happy with what I did so it got shelved. Now I found this p90 that is a better version of the e31. Peanut shaped combustion chambers are newer and supposedly better. I'll post as many measurements that I can between the two asap and let you all help me decide what head to put $850 cam kit in. Running a ben moore paint store by myself and it's feast or famine there for 10 hours a day. So this gives me something to do during slow times which seem less now that I'm the paint king #1. Anyhow I'm getting my fingernails greasy again which is nice and raises my Datsun blood pressure again after a 5 year hiatus. More tomorrow...

Sometimes you have to bite the bullet and get an original. Not sure what MSA has but can’t go wrong.

I like the p90 better after comparing them side by side plus better designed chamber than the e31. I'm not liking it too much after I unshrouded them for the bigger vales. The runners in the p90 are better from what I've read, straighter better flow. P90 is the dirtier one.

TPU is a type of 3D Printer filament. It's flexible. I looked at his photo enlarged and you can see the part has been printed. Lucas, our local mechanical engineer, has a pretty decent 3D printer setup and tried to reproduce the boots for the fuel tank hoses under the hatch in his late 280Z using TPU. Stiffer than rubber. They turned out okay but I wouldn't call them ideal. Might work for the oil cap seal but it doesn't print very smoothly...

I don't think so. If the wheel is properly designed for a lug centric application it should have the same likelihood of misbalance as a hub centric wheel. I think that the problems come out when people use a hub-centric wheel on a lug-centric hub or vice-versa. Which looks like what you're thinking about doing. If Rota designed the wheel as a lug-centric wheel then they most likely would have balanced/centered it around the lugs. The hub hole would be low tolerance. Plus, the lug holes will be tight tolerance and if your adapter is not centered between the lugs you could find a tolerance mismatch. You might even end up putting a bending load on the lugs when you force the lug nuts in to the holes or down on their tapered seats. And, you'll need to match the center of the wheel to the center of the hub in your adapter/spacer since it's not just a gap filler. It is a spacer that has to fit two centers. Neither the hub or the wheel was designed to be the centering mechanism. It's more complex than it seems if you want the actual mass to be centered and supported. Apparently, hub centric can be stronger than lug centric. But, it still comes back to the engineering group that designed the system. Here's a simple review. The guy covers some of what you're considering. Things to be aware of. https://www.machinedesign.com/fastening-joining/article/21832042/whats-the-difference-between-lugcentric-and-hubcentric-wheels

Doubtful you would have many buyers, Ryan advertises many parts on Ebay. Just checked .. https://www.ebay.com/itm/223434099712?hash=item3405b5cc00:g:h4YAAOSwGK5hQRK2

So far so good. Now I know why it was so clean and made that slight pop noise when the valves came out. Dover cylinder head did a refresh sometime in it's past. The heat sensor was on the rear.