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There is nothing that would affect polarity at the transmission. Testing: Get the car where you can safely get underneath. Put the transmission in reverse with the engine off. Disconnect the reverse switch from the wiring harness. Use an ohmmeter to make sure there is continuity across the switch with the transmission in reverse. From the voice of experience: @Zed Head helped me figure it out with the reference drawings.

Looking at the video, it appears that the plastic ball socket up at your throttle body is cracked and a chunk is missing. That may account for some amount of play beyond what is considered "normal", but honestly I think it's just the nature of the beast. There are something like seven mechanical joints in the system and each one of them is a contributor to the total play. Add to that years of use and wear, and you have the pedal uncertainty principle. If you want to get rid of all of the play, the only real option is completely bailing on the original linkage and changing over to a custom cable system. That's what I did.

I downloaded some songs off Napster in the late 90s of "Josh Homme in the Desert", that's all it said. You could hear generators in between songs running the equipment. Turned out to be one of my all time favorite bands. Another fluke band that turned out to be a favorite, Kings of Leon. A bunch of brothers, I think from Kentucky maybe, their Dad was a preacher if I remember right. They were meth heads.

You can get a rough idea of the difference between the two by looking at where on the intake manifolds the joint between the parts lands. Use the intake manifold and/or carb mounting bolts as reference markers. Using hoovered pics: Here's the flat tops. Note that the linkage joint is about the center of the rear carb: And here's the round tops. Note that the joint is further forward requiring the longer linkage piece:

View Advert 1971 240Z Datsun Solid car. No structural rust, only surface and a couple patch areas. All original except brake booster and radiator. Advertiser dddenniell Date 03/16/2023 Price $12,500 Category Cars for Sale Year 1972 Model 240Z Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)

I used to get that. It was a number of things like the usual suspects - jubilee clips not tight enough, old cracked breather hoses etc. BUT, the one that REALLY eluded me was the tank fuel level sensor - it has two pins coming out of the back: one is ground and welded on, the other has a black plastic insulator. The metal around the insulator had rusted and there was the world’s tiniest weep coming from it! And I mean it looked like a tiny old damp oil mark. Once I replaced the sender, no more fuel smells of that magnitude ever again. But I do love opening the garage door and getting that smell of oil, fuel (evaporated from carbs) and vinyl mixed together - takes me back to being a kid in the 70s!!! Good luck buddy. EDIT: just realised you are using DCOEs - so all bets are off :D !! I’ve never had them but read many a post that speaks about them spitting back fuel through the intake etc.

gratuitous prejudice there is an answer to that, relevant in the case that someone actually needs the relay https://www.hemmings.com/stories/article/the-lucas-jokebook notice that the relay was made in Germany

Thanks. Great picture, shows where the wires came out of the harness. I have looked through my pictures and dont see those wires at all. Now that I know where they came from, I can get under the dash for the 100th time, forget the flashlight, get back out, get the flashlight, and see what I can find! Maybe the buzzer was removed and I noted they were unused, and taped them off. Thanks again guys, I appreciate the help.

Those 4 pieces were $150 total. I thought the price was so good that I brought a second set for the same treatment. This new set is dirtier, so it may cost a little more to de-grease.

I've got a small vapor honing booth at my shop, which is good enough to clean things like windshield wiper arms and carburetor lids. For the big stuff, I tried out a new local service called Spray Technology in Santa Clara CA, who had heavy-duty equipment, and I was not disappointed. Everything looks better-than-new.

I have a Works 240Z rally car alternator. It is a Hitachi L-X503. I was told by several people in Japan that this was a heavy duty type usually fitted to various trucks of the period. Works rally modification included adding a splash shield to protect it from ingesting road debris. This was spotwelded to the fan blades. Here's a period photo of a Works car engine bay where the same or similar Hitachi part number is visible: