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Going triples isn't for the faint of heart. If you love to tinker, or have access to a local carb tuner, then I say go for it. If that isn't your cup of tea, stay away. They are not just bolt on and go.

Me too. It's my favorite house plant.

It is a sweet, pungent scent. The first time I encountered it I was barely 12 years old. I still like the fragrance of it.

I got most everything back from powdercoating and started assembling the struts. New bearings, seals, KYB inserts and brake hardware. I ran into two issues. 1. Powdercoater must have dropped one rear strut and dinged the threads for the stut gland nut. Should have left the old gland nuts in the struts. I played with it for a while and a friend was over that was headed to a machine shop to get something done, so I handed it to him to drop off. I hope it can be chased, because I have a lot of time in the rear bearings! 2. On one front strut the caliper was barely scrapping the rotor on the outer edge. I thought that I didnt seat a bearing race completely, so I tore all back apart and races were fine. I tried another caliper, and it is the same, so I am thinking the rotor (Centric) is a little too thick. I noticed the other rotor appears out of round. I may have them turned or try a different brand. It just barely scrapes. Both rotors measure very close to the same dimensions. Weird. I also hooked up with 240 rubber and got some goodies in the mail today. Glad it worked out as his stuff looks nice and only took a couple of weeks once we got the order settled. I saw on BAT where a very nicely restored 73 240 sold for $88,888, so that justifies a few orders for me 🙂.

Welcome! I know of no replacement for that screen but others might. Yes, some of us install an in-line fuel filter between the fuel tank and the fuel pump to protect the pump. I use Wix filters but I think the Fram G3 filters are the same. I think I use wix 3302 (5/16 hose fittings) for a 240z and 3303 (3/8 hose fittings) for a 280z. I replace the filter each year.

"De onderste steen boven halen" is that saying in dutch.. translation would be: Get the bottom stone out! I can't think of a difficult to understand (translated) saying on the spot now.. Thanks! CO for the explanation!

Just an FYI, in case you didn’t see them in the Datsun Showroom at the time: That image and another was printed on one half of a Showroom Poster - each image was about 3w’x2h’. So the total size of the Poster was about 3’ wide by 4’ high. The images were printed head to head, or top to top. The Poster was then folded in half - and hung over a support wire that ran wall to wall across the center of the showroom. There were two or maybe three different Posters - that featured the EAS Rally 240Z’s and the Monte Carlo 240Z's.

Evaporator Bracket no. 3: This one was a MF to get done, and I’m still not 100% happy with it. I would change a couple of things about it if I were to do it again, but I already have too much time invested and it’s doing the job well enough. Overall, I think this series of brackets is the right approach vs using the flat bits they provide, but the geometry is ever so slightly off on all three of them due to minor differences between the real evaporator and the mock-up. don’t get me wrong, the mock-up made it way easier, but I wish I had a CNC machine so I could take the next step and make these in aluminum and tweak the angles to fix the errors. The evaporator is a few degrees off from square on the yaw axis, which is why it was hitting the glovebox. It could also stand to move forward about 1cm and down the same amount. Not bad for hand made and rough measurements, though. You can see where the original bracket they provided with the mock-up evaporator was scratching the paint. The one of the actual evaporator is just as in the way, so I deleted that entirely. It is unnecessarily tall.

I have only ever seen pix of these vinyl tops. I agree, they are not for me...and I've heard from many (not just in the Z community) that cars with these tend to have rust under the vinyl.

I was trying Captain and you saved me, a lot of explaining.

Yes, sorry. It's a translation issue AND a cultural issue. Goes like this... When investigating a mystery, it's important to hunt for clues and look into all possibilities in order to truly solve the mystery. And here in the US there is an old saying along those lines that goes: "Leave no stone un-turned." The meaning of which is "turn over every stone looking for clues as to what's really going on." or in other words, "When looking for the true root cause answer to a question, do a thorough investigation and make sure you look into everything." Then also some time ago, some silly person manipulated that old saying juxtaposing letters and turned "leave no stone un-turned" into "leave no tern un-stoned" which is just a silly concept of a flock of seabirds stoned on drugs. Back to the topic at hand, I was implying (in a silly stoned bird way) that it was unclear how the OP of this thread claims that his back-up lights worked a bunch of times before failing, but the current theory (wrong bell housing) should have made that completely impossible. It's a mystery that has not been solved. I'm sure there is a similar saying in Dutch that would make no sense to me.

Great exhibition! I am sure your efforts will be rewarded . It is a wonderful thing that people don’t need to visit Nissan gallery in Japan to see a real Works rally car with historic displays. I have two old films , 1958 Australian rally, and 1970 Safari rally. I wish I have them digitalized so I can show you. I am so sorry they are not about 240Z , but may help to understand what Nissan did for international rally. Kats

We arrived at JCCS Long Beach yesterday to monsoon conditions (LA-style, meaning constant drizzle, 90 degree temperatures, and 15MPH winds - oh, the horror!). It was just a bit too windy to set up the booth, and we didn't want to take a chance that all of our newly-made display posters would end up scattered across the show field by morning. Since the car has a number of holes in it from prior uses, we shoved it under the tent for the time being, as the forecasters promised a few good downpours during the night.The weather should be relatively rain-free today, so we're arriving at 6AM to set up, and should be ready by showtime. If there are any fans of the Z at the show today, I hope you come by and say hello. Here's an overview piece written by Ben Hsu. https://japanesenostalgiccar.com/1971-datsun-240z-rallye-monte-carlo-a-history-lost-now-found/

That period of Japanese Dunlop radials - especially the 'SP Radial' series, which was a key branding product for Dunlop Japan on road cars - was designed to run either with and without tubes. There are some good technical articles covering them in the period Japanese specialist press (especially Auto Technic and Auto Sport magazines) and they were certainly pushing the 'Tubeless' philosophy. However, for sure the Works team were running with tubes some of the time. It probably made puncture repair turnaround faster at remote servicing. I use tubes in my original Kobe Seikos when fitted with Dunlop CR65s, but it is the tyres themselves which let the air out! They are supposedly a Tubeless design, but I see no harm in using tubes. Old Magnesium wheels can become quite porous, so best to inspect and treat on a case-by-case basis. Generally speaking I tend to suspect the rubber is at fault rather than the wheel unless the wheel is a repeat offender. The Japanese Dunlops had a really good reputation in period. Nissan's Works team manager said they could not have done so well on the Monte (against rear-engine, rear-drive/front-engine, front-drive cars with their inherent traction advantage) or won the Safari without the Japanese Dunlops. In fact one or two of the UK-based drivers 'acquired' several sets for their own personal use...

The BRE Baja 240Z and the Nissan Works rally 240Zs have no connection whatsoever. Two completely different things. The most commonly-used tyre on the Nissan Works rally 240Zs was the Dunlop (Japan) SP44, with the PW51 and PW72 also used for snow and ice stages, usually fitted with spikes.

Engine bay.