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Made some brackets for the Vintage Air AC Evaporator: Good clearance all around except for the corner of the cardboard glove box insert. It makes contact but it’s not right. I may be able to pull it forward when I make the third bracket. Right now the mock-up can twist longitudinally, so I definitely need to use that third hard point. Kinda wish I had used 16 gauge instead of 22 gauge steel for the hump bracket because it’s pretty flexible. However, I think I need another bend in it so it’s not flexed. That may stiffen it a smidgen, and maybe it won’t be an issue. I’ll decide after I have the third bracket on if it needs to be redone.

Thanks! I wasn’t able to find many people talking about how they made the brackets that hold this thing in among the various build threads I’ve read about installing one of these. Hopefully this will help someone either finish their project earlier or figure out a better solution than I have. The flat steel bracket material they provide is a no-go. Unless you’re putting this into a car where the mount points on the car are close to the mount points on the evaporator, it’s going to swing around all over because they are very springy. I'm trying to create ate least one triangle for each axis. Maybe my transmission hump bracket should have been rod instead of sheet to be stiffer, but I think the last of the three will wipe out any flex. The other benefit of going with rod over sheet in the back and on top is I’ll have WAY more space to run wires, tubes, and pipes. I made some mock-ups of various brackets for the top and they all created a huge barrier I wouldn’t be able to snake the ducting around:

Pull the transmission and stick your head up in the tunnel and look thru the p. plate to the clutch splines. The clutch splines should look centered in the p. plate fingers. If it's not centered, loosen the p. plate just enough to slide the disc to the centered position tighten it down and install the trans. I've successfully installed two clutches with no pilot shaft to center the disc. Honestly, on the first install, I doubted whether I could do it by eye but to my surprise, it slid right in. Same with the second.

Touge Con in Fayetteville AR was last Friday & Saturday. A very fun event with a great turnout. All jdm event with a underground vibe going on Friday night. Lots of lights & music. Main event took place at the 4 block town square, all reserved.

Made a delivery to the University District in Seattle, and parked in front of the Beta Theta Pi house was a pretty pristine ZX complete with iron cross wheels and silver hood. Something you don't see around here very much anymore are Z cars parked illegally on the sidewalk in frat row. I think mine is too low to make it onto a sidewalk.

Agreed. I've installed a number of clutches by leaving the pressure plate loose enough to feel around the edges and slide the disc into the center of the pressure plate, then tightening it. It has worked every time.

When I bought my 77 it would hardly run, bucking spitting and sputtering. I tried everything and then ran a mirror under the intake. There was a golf ball size hole rotted out where the egr tube connected to the intake. Under where your block off plate is. I deleted the egr system. The one vacuum line that was left after the thermal vacuum switch, TVS, I hooked to a nipple below the TPS box I think. Somewhere down there around the bcdd. Just a little story of my 77's problems. I've got the pictures on my laptop I can post when I can. You might find a recall sticker under the hood on the passenger's side if your's was fixed. Mine was not and that egr tube got loose and exhaust gas ate up my damn intake.

For me, it is. Everything I have is stock parts. Spectrum of different years, but all stock. I'd be happy to look into other systems, but I don't have anything here. It all started for me wondering what they did in 78 to allow the removal of the ballast resistor. And the answer is they started including current limiting inside the module in 78. Then av8ferg wanted to be able to mount two different style modules (ZX matchbox and GM HEI) on his car and be able to swap between the two if one of them failed. But when he tried it, he noticed a timing difference between the two. So I thought it might be interesting to investigate that. That's how I got here. I've been poking around inside the stock modules for some time now but figured nobody (other than me) really cared, so I didn't post about it.

Could also swap cylinder 1 injector with another cylinder to see if the problem follows the injector. Also, I could be totally off base but it just seems odd that one cylinder misbehaving would cause the severe symptoms you are describing, backfiring, etc. In a healthy engine, you can disable a cylinder and it will run...lower idle speed, lower power, etc...but will run without bucking and backfiring. Just a thought to consider.

It's a good starting point since that's what most people here are running, but it would be interesting to learn more about ignition for the coil on plug systems. Just from talking with @Captain Obvious on the phone and looking at some videos he suggested, I was able to detect a potential issue with my 240Z by using my oscilloscope. The scope indicated there could be some extra arcing (having to jump more than the gap between the rotor & cap and spark gap) at the firing line of the spark at different cylinders. When I looked at the cap, wires, and coil, I found significant corrosion at the coil. Before changing the coil and wires (yellow wire is the voltage at the negative post of the coil): After the coil and wires were replaced (again, yellow trace): Next up is for me to get a current probe for my scope so I can chart the current limiting effects of some of the ignition systems.

Thanks @Joseph@TheZStore for the confirmation that they are the correct inserts (phew!), your advice and appreciate you asking around on the cutting/cooling for this situation.. it looks like that is my best option (and thank goodness they have the nubs to grind down to give me those needed few mm's!) Your 100% correct in that the history of modification done on these struts are entirely unknown, and i certainly don't see it as a fitment issue that would apply to anyone else's situation. I did do some research prior to confirm they were standard length (and there is certainly no sign of cutting either, on the tube or the top threads ), but having not modified them myself i can only guess! There was limited option in adjustable standard length shock inserts (i understood the GC option to be for sectioned struts), and i am still very grateful that you have developed this option for us! I am also very thankful for the information and support both yourself and Lee from Koni has added in this thread - its a rare opportunity and part of the reason i went down this road. as a side note - The car is not for track, just trying to clean up and mildly upgrade what i can to enhance it's on-road personality.. The GC kit came to me second hand with the tokico's and 300+ lb/in springs, it had clearly been track focused and unsuitable for my needs (i never ran them this way, just started rebuilding them when i got them). On advice from GC, i have new 150/175 lb/in springs going in to try and keep things within a comfortable range of standard, hopefully this suits the intended Koni shock performance curve.. i am pretty sure i will be happy with them once its all together! Thanks Kent

Hello Kent. Those are the correct strut cartridges for a stock 240Z front strut housing/hardware. Unfortunately they are not designed for Ground Control coil over kits. GC sells specific cartridges to fit in their kits, and whatever cartridges they are labeling as "Koni Yellow" are not the same as our Koni Sport (Yellow) struts, so they are either a different type of Koni strut (not Koni Sports), or they are from another application entirely (BZ3038, for instance, were for 280ZX front). Even though they do not section the strut housing to shorten it for lowering the car (assuming that is what you meant), that doesn't mean the whole kit hardware is designed for "stock" 240Z strut cartridges. In addition to the height of the cartridge, the cartridge you need is also dependent on the strength of springs you will be using with the coil over kit. Do you know the springs that are on the second hand kit you purchased? I'm not sure if anybody who has ordered the Ground Control kit can tell you what number of Koni strut cartridge they were sent from GC, but they are not 240Z front Koni Sport Yellows as we sell. If you are not racing this car, and want to use these with your Ground Control front coil over setup, and your measurements indicate that removing part of the "nub" would be enough height, then it is possible, although not recommended, and one would need to be very careful. The warranty would be void for modifications, just like it is for racing applications, so consider carefully if you decide to use these for a custom setup. Here is what a qualified technician said: Again, if this is a race car, or you have a specific level of "race" type performance in mind, Ground Control has strut options designed to match the "race" strength of the springs, AND fit with their specific hardware/camber plates/etc. Let us know what you decide and how we can help.

the oers are far better than itbs having had a rebello engine on oers no contest

sell the OERs and get ITBs and injection.