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It's false Fall in Georgia. That means for a while we will have cooler temperatures for a short while, followed up with a last blast of heat before true Fall. Anyway, the conditions were great for going to a Saturday morning car meet. As a matter of fact, the weather was so nice, several others decided to bring their Z cars out, too. The two yellow 240Zs were purchased through BaT. One of the owners has been to a Georgia Z Club meeting, though I don't know if he joined, yet. I ended up diagnosing "lack of cabin heat" issues on both. The brown 280ZX and black gold AE are both owned by fellow GZC members. All I can say is that the 260Z felt great on the roads with the new inner LCA bushings. I need to consider doing more suspension work on the 240Z to keep pace.

Super funny! in these miserable times.. Enjoy !! (Switch your english undertitles ON!) Let me know what you found of it!!

Can’t get it to show English subtitles.

I bought a 12x12 sheet of closed cell silicone from Amazon that is the same thickness as the 240z gasket. I ended up changing the hole size on that from the sample and making about eight paper templates before deciding on a final one. An X-acto knife goes through that silicone like butter. The ZX bracket was sandblasted and I used the same blue paint I used on the block, which I purchased from Motorsport. The silver paint is Eastwood Alumablast. I used a Timken 6203-2RS deep groove bearing (17x40x12mm). I have painted all of my aluminum parts in the engine bay. I have learned that radiator fluid additives can completely ruin the finish on nice aluminum parts so the only things I leave raw in the engine bay are brass and stainless steel. For the quarter windows, I used Goo Gone to get them cleaned after taking them apart. The rubber is all new from Precision (not very precise, if you ask me). I polished the steel with Barkeeper’s Friend and then stainless steel polish. It has a faint brushed finish rather than a mirror finish, but that’s intentional. The broken joints in the frame were glued with JB weld and clamped, because I didn’t feel like breaking out the welder for a single spot weld. However, the rubber, being not precise (see above), might have ruined that joint. I can’t completely tell and am not taking it apart to find out. It doesn’t matter because the car holds it together. Weather strip is held in with black 3M weather strip adhesive and the various gaps were filled with black RTV. It looks like it’s supposed to be like that.

My theory would be increased resistance lowers the voltage to the pump. Lower voltage turns the pump slower and with less force. Increasing cranking time waiting on fuel

Making some progress: Reconditioned my 280ZX AC Bracket Reconditioned the Storage Box Latches Installed Most of the Interior Insulation Reconditioned the Fuel Flow / Fume Control Valve Reconditioned the Steering Coupler Reconditioned and Repaired the Quarter Windows Made a Brake Booster Gasket & Installed the Clutch Master Cylinder

I am restoring a 240z heater box. The little rubber grommets that the side vent door rods slide through (to open and close) are hardened and falling apart on my box. I found something very close to the original grommets at Marco Rubber. Part number is GMT1029. Their phone number is 603-468-3600. No way to order online. I can't recall ever seeing suitable replacements so thought I would share. Attached are 3 photos.

@Tirnipgreen...message me your mailing address and I will send you a few.

Ryals, you could also look at McMaster Carr's website: https://www.mcmaster.com/grommets/flange-diameter~13-16/grommets-6/

The main efi relay had some resistance so maybe the efi system wasnt getting full power? My main guess is the fuel pump relay had resistance, so maybe it took a little bit longer for power to push its way through the corrosion to turn the pump on? Who knows - all I do know is everyone should test the relays for resistance. The only reason I resurected this old thread was for that PSA haha