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ok, I got it this time. Finally! I started my troubleshooting over from scratch. 1)Jumped G and GY at C7 again for a sanity check to make sure the turn signals worked. They did. 2) Took apart the hazard switch and cleaned up all the connections. Tested it with a multimeter and found no issues. 3) Connected G and GY from c7 directly to my switch. This worked Problem was somewhere with the wires that connects C7 to my switch. Ohms test was fine on all the wires. Although I did not see any corrosion, I once again cleaned the male and female connections. Then I sprayed it with deoxit. Reconnected everything and now I have both hazards and turn signals working! Damn this was not an easy one with two separate issues. Thanks all for the help. Couldn't have done it without your help

Maybe the clicking/knocking noise is the fuel pump. Not turning. The engine does not seem to be spraying any fuel. You did not mention fuel pressure. Very important.

Here's the "Queen bean with sweet tea". This has been like a ship's wheel for me, "driving me nuts" for the last 2 years. Finally starting to care about the cars again so I've drained the old fuel and will replace all filters tomorrow. Exmark is completely full BTW. Sitting off and on for 2 years. It ain't good. But no sign of Red-Kote! Hurray me.

I think these 'collector's items' are worth saving for posterity: I must say '71Zcollector' is my kind of guy. He knows plastic when he sees (and feels...) it and he's sticking to his guns. That's the spirit!

I am in El Cajon, CA just outside San Diego.

I would leave the new switch alone. There are probably no electrical contacts under that plastic piece since it is a aftermarket switch. Just abandon the buzzer. it is annoying anyway, at least for me. I have never had to slot the anti theft screws on the lock. I remove them with a small screwdriver, tap them with something counter clockwise to get them started. Some have drilled a small dent near the screw edge to help with the screwdriver or punch.

Wood. I suspect the plasticy "feel" is where vast majority of the resin ends up during the pressure and heat cycles, on the outer surface (and inner by the photos). I presume Izumi didn't then put a finish, say lacquer, on the steering wheels, and the end finish is the resin? My CSP steering wheel looks very much like the early S30 one, and sands like wood, and for me that is a wooden one. I wonder if Izumi made them too....?

Very old brake flexible brakelines can clog up, every time u use the brakes the pressure in the brake cylinders (on the wheel(s) ) get released to slow and warm up.. new rubber lines are the only solution to this. I'm not saying that's the problem but you can check for it by lifting front wheels and let someone brake hard and you checking the wheels after brakes are off. (after relaesing the brakes the wheel should turn very easy.)

You said you recently changed the master cylinder. Did you check and adjust the vacuum booster pushrod? There needs to be about 0.020” clearance between the booster pushrod and the cup inside the master cylinder piston. If the gap is too large, there will be excessive pedal travel and the brakes will feel soft. Not enough gap, and the vacuum booster will be partially applying the brakes, causing them to drag, and heat up.

Might be that you have a hydraulic pressure buildup or hang up, not releasing quickly, but releasing slowly. So you're not catching it by the time you get a wheel lifted. You could lift the front end and confirm that the wheels spin freely then drop it down and go for a drive using only the parking brake. Check for heat. That would tell you if the pads are dragging all of the time or only when you pressurize the hydraulics. Or you could just let them cool down and go for a drive using only the parking brake. If it's a slow leakdown you'll get the same result.

That's quite a bit of wheel rotation for the problem to be the brakes. I'd jack up a front corner, grab the the top and bottom of the tire and push on the top while pulling out the bottom, then reverse the direction several times. If you can feel any looseness take a look at the wheel bearing and check to see if it's just loose or trashed.

I just put one of my 240 struts together using the KYB stuff. I did just like you show in your picture. I figure when its under load it will be about right. I would have no problem just leaving them off.

We worked on the motor some more last weekend Checked ring gaps All the studs in We checked all the clearances with indicators and verified with plastigage Right now the thrust bearing is pretty tight. I'm not sure we have any clearance. I think we're looking for 0.05 mm. We'll see... @Captain Obvious

I might just as well quote myself for every Bring A Trailer S30-series Z auction, because the same sticky swamp of 'Series' and 'Model Year' conflation and claptrap comes up every time. Sure enough, on the regular, it rears its ugly mug on the 919 12/70 HLS30UV auction currently running.

Sadly, but almost inevitably I think, Izumi was bought up and merged into the global giant Autoliv group some years ago. The old Izumi factory still continues in Atsugi, Kanagawa prefecture. It would be nice to imagine they had some sort of corporate archive.

My KPGC10 Skyline 2000 GT-R track car also wears an (aftermarket) period IZUMI steering wheel, similar to the Datsun Compe style vinyl with moulded stitching detail. Note the 'Nardi' style 'Izumi' signature engraving on the RH spoke:

Progress… underside is basically done. Now on to the inside/engine bay… started prepping the brake and fuel lines today. Once I have the engine bay and interior painted, I can start much more reassembly. Seriously looking forward to it… I’m tired of looking at shell. I want a rolling chassis again.

Wrapping up the interior. I’m pretty happy with the outcome. It’s not perfect but it has come a long way. I wish I had great pics of the interior to show the before and after. The bottom line my car had no interior and no seats when I bought it. Everything is new or something I either bought or salvaged. The only interior pieces that I had were the plastic panels that go around the rear quarter windows. The headliner was also in good shape and required no work. There was no vinyl on the shock towers or wheel wells. I salvaged mine off a junked Z in a salvage yard. You can see in the before pics the interior was just bare metal. Still haven’t figured on the center console arm rest mechanism. I have all the parts (springs and wires ) just haven’t figured out how is works yet. I also need new sun visors, or to have mine refurbished.

This isn't color coded, but here are 10 pin latching connectors: https://www.ebay.com/itm/251571360455 Also here: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2251832114000835.html?gatewayAdapt=4itemAdapt and here: https://www.amazon.com/DJJ7021F-6-3-11-Electrical-Connectors-Automobile-Connector/dp/B07WQWMMLT?th=1 Choice #2, back out the pins and re-use the shells.

https://www.tmz.com/2022/08/08/street-outlaws-fastest-america-ryan-fellows-killed-crash-dead-dies/