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I used to do auto detailing and used to participate in a detailing forum, Autogeek. I’ve read a bit about it and have only tried doing it a little. Basically a very time consuming and messy process and you may not get the results you want. Use a rotary polisher and a cerium oxide polish and you have to keep wetting/spraying it which causes the machine to sling it everywhere. You also run the risk of creating waves in the glass if you go too crazy with it and are not consistent with your application. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Then when cleaning the rear housing, I discovered the end isn’t exactly round anymore. Used a bolt and nut and some force spreading rings and got it better. Bit afraid to push to hard and crack the aluminum casting. Mind you it dented pretty easily without cracking. Might have to warm it “slightly” to increase ductility. Nice that the opening is just a hair under 2.00 inches (1.97), I have some 2” pipe I use as backups and support.

Is that the left frame rail, under the driver’s side footwell? I see rust on the floor pan too. Looks like your Z needs frame rails and floor pans. Any “patch job” will only be a band aid, and the problem will be passed on to the next owner.

The rubber blocks act as insulators between the fuel tank and the body structure. Be sure to place them where they were originally. The stock oil pressure sending unit isn’t very accurate. Using a good quality mechanical gauge will give a better reading of oil pressure. At idle, an engine just started with cold oil will have higher oil pressure than a hot engine. The rule of thumb for oil pressure is 10 psi for every 1,000 rpm of engine speed. If a hot engine doesn’t have 10 psi at idle, the cause should be investigated.

what was the clutch sold as for? I have a XTD RB25 clutch and flywheel in my Z and the bolts and dowels only line up in one position. (i. e. no rotational symmetry).

I think that "T" is supposed to go to the same place your distributor vacuum connects to. It's a ported source on either the front carb, or the EFI throttle body (depending the year) and "T" to the distributor advance and the carbon can.

I would dig the remainder of that bolt out of the bumper and either epoxy a new bolt in or use a urethane adhesive caulk

225mm Z clutches use 6 bolts, 240mm clutches use 9. What is the diameter of the friction surface on that flywheel? Is it stock? Can’t say I’ve ever tried to put a 225mm pressure plate on a 240mm flywheel to see what bolts line up. Should go do that

Steve, My 82 parts car still has the cable in it and seems to work well. Any interest?

And for you wussies that are afraid of weakening that rod by grinding it down, just stop those slam shifts while into 5th and reverse. The shift fork for 5-R is in behind the center plate, and all the rod in front does is support it straight in the front housing. I'd be shocked if you could break it. All the fierce shifting in the world won't bend that rod.

Hi Guys, It's a sad thing, Jan Is selling his Datsun 240z racer as he is terminal ill.. You can find the advertising here.. ≥ Nissan 240/260 Z 2.4 Sport Coupé — Oldtimers — Marktplaats It has got all the special features.. won many prices.. Price is 75000 Euro's.