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@Namerowregarding your original post about studs vs bolts for the upper six intake manifold fasteners, I found something interesting in the 1973 JDM S30 parts fiche. The nut (item 32) is described by two options, one a nut and the other "BOLT - fixing manifold". These pages are for up to 1973-2. Not exactly clear but interesting none the less. The studs are shown on a different page for the cylinder head, The JDM parts book has great illustrations and in a lot of cases more detail than the N.A. parts book. It can be found here: Thanks @hr369

Went to a very large car show on Vancouver island for Father’s Day (625 + cars) there was a very nice orange early car there Vin 957, young gentleman that inherited it from his dad.

Clear hose is best. You can see it before a mouth full. We use them for transferring fuel into boats. In Alabama it's a "Georgia credit card".

A 240Z restored to "as close as it came from the factory”, ie Condition #1 - will cost you $150K+ today. A little farther away, that being with say 10 judging points deducted from a possible 100, would be in the $125K range. (one just sold earlier in that price range, with some owner selected modifications). The restoration work on the one that sold for $70K+ would take a year or two of the owners work, and an addition $60K to $80K to duplicate, on top of the purchase price of the car to start with. $70K for 240Z in that condition was a bargain today.

Early 240Z's did come from the factory with body color paint on the underside. Most in my area got dealer applied black undercoating of some type. My 7/70 car #6521 got the very thick tar like undercoating which I have removed during my restoration exposing original 918 orange paint throughout. On my car I found that under the 918 paint the front wheel wells and the transmission tunnel, front to rear, plus between and including the underfloor frame rails, got a very heavy dark charcoal grey primer. The top coat of paint in these areas is very thin and the dark grey color shows through, especially in the transmission tunnel. The area under the floors and the rear wheel wells had a lighter blueish grey primer and the top orange coat was much closer to the upper exposed surfaces. Here are some pics of mine.

IDK problematic wife / problematic Z? You can always sell the Z and get your money back!

This is a sign that there is no electrical power at (edit - actually should say "passing through". The ground side must be there also to complete the circuit) the AAR plug.

I was thinking about the fuel rail, and how it came into play, but didn't recall exactly where the brackets were. Thanks for the pic. If you have a chance to get the dims on the flat washers that go under those T R 7 bolts, please share those as well. I am updating my documentation of all my 240z's hardware which I shared once before in another thread. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1Cmnw0F8N7B3VknCzNwGkfN2SGmIHdFJhDjARv3jkxNI/edit#gid=0 I have updated my Excel copy quite a bit as I have been going through all of the hardware that I got back from plating. I have been putting it back in the zip lock bags with my labels of where they go. Though slow, it is going very well. It's amazing how much of the hardware is unique to its location on the car. I will be updating the Google sheet for everyone after I have completed sorting and cataloging all of the hardware.

The cylinder head temp sensor signal only leans the fuel as the engine warms, it does not change the idle. The only way your car idle changes is if more air gets in. Look for vacuum leaks. Did you purchase a new secondary air valve or find a used one? It may be incorrectly adjusted or sticky. I had to adjust mine.

Stock r180 with a Rebello power and one weak point and bang . I’m with everyone here about checking diff . Try the Subi diff swap - it makes for a tougher r180

There should be no skipping or jumping ever. You broke something. Probably not worth fixing, even if it's possible. Find a new diff. Consider an R200 conversion, Nissan started using them to take the torque of the L28 engines. p.s. please post pictures of the destroyed gears or shafts after you open it up.

this is not the pic of mine but what it looked like

Im with Jonbill, open the diff up for a look

open diff? sounds like the roll pin that holds the spider gears failed.

In the ZCCA "Stock" class the cars are judged on how well they represent the original factory appearance and equipment as it rolled out of the factory. If the valve cover is your only change, you can take a chance in the Stock class knowing you will give up points for that item. The first round judges are usually not that harsh as many of them are actually other owners with only limited judging experience. The advantage of electing the "Street Modified" class is that the judging switches to not so much "what" you have done but rather "how well" it has been done. Attention to detail and cleanliness are the deciding factors at this point. The first round judging decides all of the class awards and "Best ..." awards. For first round cars finishing with 290 or more points, it is the second round judging that really gets crazy intense. All of the judges will be very experienced in prior ZCCA events and they will be ruthless for the Gold Medallion and Gold Cup contenders. Good luck and have fun at the big dance!

My friend paid a shop to restore his 260Z over the course of 5 years. He sent cheques every month and paid for the work by the hour.... In the end his car was north of $140,000 Cdn, mostly for the hourly work. He paid $30,000 for the engine alone. This is not a hobby for the faint of heart.... or shallow of pocket.