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I swear there is an unwritten law of nature that sates anything you install you will have to uninstall, several times for one reason or another. A productive weekend though, got the headliner and the rest of the vinyl trim finished, that's a nerve wracking moment when you take the Xacto blade and puncture and cut a hole in the headliner you've worked so hard on got to be done though, that light has to recess up into the center frame. I got the parcel shelf and footwell kick panels completed, both bumpers painted with 3 coats of clear, also installed the front windshield, just have to remove the exhaust system again so I can get at the fill plug on the transmission that hasn't been filled yet. Hoping to fill the tank next week and try and get it started.

Looks right to me. The bushing goes on the very end, slick part. The splined part is bigger. I think that's what is throwing you off. Try it on the tool in your clutch kit.

These two things are probably related...

One day we'll all look back on what this did to society and as an individual. I traveled extensively around the world during the 2009 swine flu (over a billion suspected cases), and no place, even China where the worst death rates were did people treat one another poorly. Some people wore masks, most didnt, yet no one scolded, belittled, brow beat anyone, ever. So from 2009 till now, we all have reduced ourselves to 8th graders, pitting one group against the other. Why? My mother taught me is you dont have anything nice to say, they stay quiet.

At the wheel end, the one with the missing C clip had a slipped collar too. So what to do? Well I did a permanent fix. I repositioned the collars in the right spot, and welded them down. No more of this horse **** The “right spot” by the way is exactly 0.1 inch back from the groove. Measured a real stock cable to get that value. Quick weld, water to cool, do another etc. There is a plastic sheath on the cable so have to keep my cool. I put some dual wall shrink tube over it as well for a bit of water proofing.

You can get one of these rubber caps for couple of dollars. Keeps the fluid in the tranny without driveshaft.

My old bushing was just like yours Charles @Patcon with the same locking tabs. I have seen this style in the 71B. Can't find my old one anymore. I checked the spare 71C I have and it is hard to see with the main shaft in place, but it looks like it's slotted (2 holes) like Dave WM described. I know the originals had no holes, but later the did. Can't remember exactly when, but I thought it was in the 280ZX when they changed. Most probably after 82 because the 82 close ratio I have had the old style as well.

Thanks Then yes, its in backwards Will probably work better the other way! 😉

Green is good. Blood red is bad. Nebraska is grey. What is grey? Dead?

Not necessarily! Diagnose one at a time. Use a meter check for voltage and ground

Are you being intentionally ironic?

And let's not forget the study results released this week about the loss of brain cells following COVID. https://www.cnbc.com/2021/06/17/new-covid-study-hints-at-long-term-loss-of-brain-tissue-dr-scott-gottlieb-warns.html Unfortunately, the unvaccinated don't have a lot to spare before getting COVID. Just further proof that Darwin was right.

Jim, this is what I did as I do not have a TIG welder. Just checked it and the grommets are holding up.

Vapor blasting gives a very nice original look finish. Here's an example of vapor blasting by a company near me, that provides this service:

Black Wrinkle, then sand off the lines and letters like @siteunseen . If you opt to get any wrinkle coats, use a hand-held heat gun to get the wrinkle finish consistent. I learned this when I used it to coat the triangulation brace.

I like them all too. I've got black on my 240 and natual bead blasted on the 280. The black looks good against all the aluminum of the carbs and intakes to my eyes plus it never gets dirty.

Now on the opposite side of lucky a s s me here's my 240 original paint after a good buff out.

Another small improvement for when you assenmle the transmission. On the top rear of the extension housing is the locating pin/circlip for the striking rod. It is actually located on the oil side of the O-Ring seal on the striking rod. It can weep oil. It is not much, but a little sealant around the pin (32847) and its circlip will stop it and keep the area dry and clean.

So after seeing what happened to my cam oiler tube, and talking to another Z owner who had the same problem with major results. The front tube fell out and got caught in the timing chain. Trashed the bottom gear and of course bent a bunch of valves. So I decided to try to come up with a way to stop the tubes from fall down into the lower engine if they failed and am trying this to see it helps.