Leaderboard

I'm pretty sure they are the same for series 1 and 2, here are measurements from my 1970. The datum for measurement is the lower right corner of hatch. The bottom edge of the hatch is curved so instead of the that edge I drew a line at right angle to the right edge for the vertical dimensions. I hope that makes sense.

Well, that will hold up progress. This morning, my wife woke me up about 7am and asked me if I could take one of her care home patients around to their appointments today. I said "no, not unless you sing me Disney Princess Showtunes." I then fell back to sleep thinking I had successfully warded off that duty. A few minutes later, she woke me again singing "It's a whole new world..." I forgot she is friends with the singer who sang it for the movie and sings it on Broadway, Lea Solonga... Well, my day is shot.

Here is a scan of my sketch, if you print on 8.5" x 11" paper and select "actual size" it will print to scale. 1970 240Z HATCH EMBLEM HOLES.pdf

Paint 3D. Tried to get a 3 way comparison. The original CanTechZ color has more "pop".

Much appreciated, @siteunseen . @Wally , I got the car out into a clear Arizona morning for a few pictures of the 918 finish taken with my iPad.. I included an under-hood picture for color contrast to validate the orange hue.

fyi, another possible cause for low fuel pressure is clogged fuel lines, make sure your pump is not having to work too hard to get the fuel in the 1st place. the fuel should siphon thru the supply line when disconnected from the pump lnlet. If it does not you have a restriction. check this before popping for a new pump. There is also the possibility of poor electrical supply to the pump itself (thru wire and relays), check the voltage AT the pump. There will be losses along the way but you should still see at least 10v with the key on, engine off, pump running. It will prob be higher if you test with the engine running (since the voltage will be closer to 14v at the battery. I tested my by observing the voltage key in start engine off, using the start position with the solenoid disconnected to get the pump running using the start circuit. Make sure you have good solid hookups to the pump. 1975 Datsun fuel pump voltage drop - YouTube

I bought the set from the Z store.

I am getting close to satisfied with the block eye brow and combustion chamber mods. I have a few areas I see in the pics that need attention. I actually can see them better in the pics because I can zoom in on them and compare from one cylinder to another. So this is helpful to document them in this way. Cylinder 1-3 and 4-6: Cyl. 1 exhaust (front of bore - also note ring location by rust stain), Cyl. 2 exhaust (back of bore), Cyl. 3 exhaust (back of bore): Cyl. 4 exhaust (front of bore), Cyl. 5 exhaust (front of bore), Cyl. 6 exhaust (back of bore: Cyl. 1 intake (back of bore - also note ring location by rust stain), Cyl. 2 intake (front of bore), Cyl. 3 intake (front of bore): Cyl. 4 intake (back of bore), Cyl. 5 intake (back of bore), Cyl. 6 intake (front of bore): I think I have those all labeled correctly. Of course, I also still need to assemble everything in mock fashion to check clearances.

Sorry Wally, I would only be guessing. The first number looks like a “1”, and the other numbers could be ” 0 or 9 or 8”. Given the other additive codes, a local auto paint supplier could probably figure the “Red Orange” amount. I’ll try to get a whole car picture tomorrow, but here are a few in-garage pieces.

wow @Patcon you are 100% correct, that's how I mated it together when i installed it last time. My excuse is that I work on a slanted driveway alone. I'll make sure to install it properly this time.

Agreed, that looks off center. It might work if it's centered up, but best to replace the damaged part. I can't imagine how that happened. Those clutch discs are easy to center up by hand.

Sorry, definitely not mine. I'm still in dis-assembly mode. Here is a picture photo shopped with @Wally's picture for comparison. It's the fuel inlet hose protector from the rear right wheel well after the under coating was removed.

Wally, Pierre Z did my car restoration about 19 years ago, and he also did most of the restorations in the Vintage Z Restoration Program just before my car. Needing some touch up paint myself, I just came across this label and believe it to be the base coat paint used on my car. The label, seen below, includes the formula and manufacturer. Disclaimer if you decide to use this, but thought it may be of interest to everyone. Dan

Whenever there is a does this look like this color thread it’s almost impossible to tell unless your there standing next to it, your camera takes at one color setting, your phone or laptop views it at another color setting, your brain interprets it at whatever it wants. I always say if it looks right to you it is what it is because that might not be the same color to me Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Too clean. Too sterile, neat, tidy. You're missing drips and runs in the paint. Splotches! We must have splotchy paint! And splatters. It's the splatter that matters!

Wow