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Yeah, they fluff up a lot when you take them apart!

150mm is way to much. It's an easy misstake and happens a lot. The aftermarket industry make one type of pressure plate, but in the S30 series Zeds they had 4 different heights over the years. Each type had its own matching collar. The bearing and fork have the same dimensions.

For the cost of tooling and the low production numbers, $660 seems very reasonable. The Smog line should be an easy delete and doesn't have to be a permanent mod

Thank you sir. - glad to be of service. BTW, found an even cheaper solution on eBay. A Datsun 720 or 620 sensor would have also done the trick at £28 posted!! I would bet my left testicle* that the ohms will be the same on all these sensors as the main unit is identical, just the float and bends are different. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/164126554844 (* not ever planning to have kids again, this is an easy bet! In fact, don’t do it gang!!! Dodge that bullet and live longer, happier, wealthier lives! But that sounds very similar to my S30 ownership too!! [emoji848] Maybe I should just go back to bed and stop prattling on.)

Pic of the taillights and marker. low beam and high beam showing the cutoff. Photography doesn’t do justice to the brightness and colour temp of these lights. high beam

I have used the jack and wrench/vise grip trick a few times but mostly on the fill plug for the tranny. I once had the car start to lift off the jack stands the plug was so tight. Heat was the solution.

It’s on the shelf next to the DDT and the 99% DEET Off... Welcome to Canada.

If you pull the clutch fork back until the throw out bearing touches the pressure plate fingers and then measure the distance away from the front of the bell housing, you should measure about 115mm give or take a couple of mm. If you read more, then you probably have a mis match pressure plate / throw out bearing collar. If you measure the height of the pressure plate and throw out bearing, they should add up to 92mm. You will need to dismantle the transmission for that.

I think its a sensible price. actually, very sensible.

@HS30-H reading between the lines, i'm guessing you're not a fan?

A steal at $660.00. One of the hardest parts to find for the 240Z.

As a side note, I installed my custom fabricated A/C system using the basic VIntage Air Mini Gen II kit plus my own hose kit, condenser and drier. I was loathe to start the engine with a parasitic pump attached even without the clutch engaged with the potential for damage to the a/c system, so I purchased a vacuum pump and manifold and purged the system myself. Was pleasantly surprised to find no leaks and proceeded to load a full charge of 12a refrigerant into the system. This $200 investment was worth it to have a functioning A/C system that I can personally service rather than pay someone else to do.

Page 71: "The red, white and blue Datsun logo and brand reflected a fusion of Japanese heritage (the rising sun) with American patriotism". What...?! How on earth was that logo anything at all to do with "American patriotism"? This is almost a cargo cult level of nonsense. They say that 'man created God in his own image', but here's America seeing itself reflected in something that has nothing to do with it. Bonkers. Here's a Nissan Jidosha KK 'Datsun' brochure from 1934. I think its a fairly sure bet that Nissan didn't come up with their new 'Datsun' logo's colouring as any kind of hat tip to the USA:

I had the same thing happen! That's when it broke loose though and the car came back down. I now have a Bernzomatic torch head that works with those cheap green propane camping bottles. They get hot enough for my needs.

Adjusted the front coil overs a little to get a little more clearance. The added weight of all the kit I installed the last two months dropped the front end about half an inch too much. Picked her up a bit, tightened all the pretty bling suspension bits and put the vto’s back on! Added water to the rad for test day. Will confirm no leaks before I adjust the mix with coolant. Charged the battery, checked all the wiring and secured the engine bay. A couple of nice shiny parts arrived so installed new led 1156 bulbs in the taillights. 1157’s and shorty 1156 coming too. Some H4 LED headlight bulbs arrived too. Amazingly bright and look awesome in the period correct Cibie headlights!

Was that tank holding fuel by virtue of undercoating?

I used a pipe wrench and my floor jack to get mine loose. Get the pipe wrench griped on and then the floor jack under the handle to push up, counter clockwise.

A 1 inch piece of flat stock about 10 inches long with a 1/2 inch bar stock piece welded to the end. The I/2 piece was measured to allow it to just fit between the mustache bar and the diff for a normal cover. You can also just weld the short piece of 1/2 bar stock to 10 inches of 1/2 stock. The extra capacity cover has a side filler and is somewhat easier to get at with a 1/2 inch extension.

A 1/2 inch socket drive fits. I've found that the wobble type get a better bite. The straight ones slip out easily. Run a torch flame around the plug to expand the hole. It's a taper fit, that's why it sticks out like that, and Nissan used a powerful sealant.

Having trouble adding a video- but here's an update on my 240: HUGE shoutout and THANK YOU to everyone in this thread- especially 240260280 for all the help and advice! Please excuse the mess in the garage, it's usually immaculate hahah