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Whoa, I guess I would go with repairing B, a plate made out of 14ga welded on to span the central rust pitted area with holes cut out for plug welding and also for the steering rack hold downs.

I've had bearing come with those seals. Absolutely remove the seal. Just pick them out, they are not held in tightly at all.

I find the pictures from all the FSM's a little confusion because they don't put the FRONT notch up top. All those FSM manual pics have the piston pin running side-to-side instead of top-to-bottom, and I just find it confusing because I want the notch at the top. To get the FRONT notch at the 12:00 position, you have to rotate that sketch. And also interesting to note that they do not specify "FRONT" at all. Just the piston pin direction. Seems it really doesn't matter which is FRONT. You could rotate that sketch either direction and it would still be right. I rotated it and put on the two possible FRONT notch locations: Either of those FRONT locations would follow the "rules". The FSM shows the pressure rings all at 4:30 and 10:30, but I don't see any reason why 1:30 or 7:30 would be any different.

Yep, and in another recent discussion about the Z car depot fuel sender, I purchased one and it works great. I don't have any idea as to why the MSA one cost more.

I also used the same U-joint successfully. IIRC, I might have needed to grind down the shoulders of the spider casting a bit to get the clearance required to make them fit. The bigger issue for me was removing the original spiders. I ended up having to cut through one of the spider's legs using my Dremel and a cutting disc. If you find that you need to do this, you'll be extra-careful not to damage the yoke while you're cutting through the spider.

There is a Kawasaki Ujoint that I think @Patcon pioneered.

Yup, that’s new one I haven’t ever seen before. I can see how it could happen. i do have to note that no matter which way you put that bolt in, there is a large cross groove in the splines that the M10 bolt has to pass through, that locks the splines from slipping out of the yoke. Yes, if its in the wrong way, or is loose, the splines can come loose and there could be play, but I don’t see how that joint could come apart as long as the bolt is still in place through the groove. If the bolt falls out, then yes, it can come apart. If the splines were not inserted far enough so that the lock bolt can pass IN FRONT of the entire shaft, than that is a real problem, but I think the over all length constraints would make it hard to assemble all the components without realizing something was wrong. Wish I’d made a list of all the critically wrong stuff I’ve seen on the Datsun’s I’ve touched. Everything from rusted out seat belt mounting points to seats barely bolted down. Trust nothing unless you’ve checked it yourself.

Glad you caught it, that could ruin your whole day. PO's are one of the reasons I completely dismantle every old car I buy before it gets on the road.

Some more photos I took of the wall hanging. It's amazing and I am glad it was done in the best color ever ;)

Hi Mike....It has a flat wood base that you won’t see.....will sit on 3 “L” brackets screwed in 2x4’s in the wall and a short wire cable up top to make sure it doesn’t tip over! Hope you’ve got everything under control....can’t wait till this virus is gone so we can head over to Hungary to see our dream girl! The one in Steve’s old white Z is yours ?

Finished product......Z’s are cool eh? BTW many thanks to Zup for providing the door for my project. We’ve got some really great members.....it must have been a PITA to get it to Richmond.

I hate it when that happens - it means I didn’t learn something new. Although I also fear that years of marriage have taught me that it’s better to be wrong even if I am right! [emoji12]