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The gauge is adjustable. A screw on the back. Still need an external meter to be sure of the adjustment.

Hi , I let my treasure go to the other Fairlady 240ZG , it is an optional item which was available for the L-series engined car in Japan . The dual exhaust system for the L-series engine is one of the rarest part to obtain nowadays. Maybe back in the old days too , most of people even don’t know what it is . The front and center tubes “ 20010-E8730 “ is the one , this was made specifically for the L-series standard exhaust manifold to bolt on . I imagine so few people chose this set up when people going to have sporty “ dual exhaust systems “ back in 70’s and 80’s . I think this is not so sportier than the one with the full race exhaust manifold set up . Usually, people have Nissan sports option replica exhaust manifold with the Z432 genuine center and tail pipes or , after market set up for their cars . Please see the pictures, they are all genuine Nissan exhaust systems. The ones the left is designed for the L-series standard exhaust manifold, the ones on the right is for the L-series engine with the genuine Nissan race option exhaust manifold with genuine Z432 center and tail pipes set up . Everybody who has S30 series car can attach this “ 20010-E8730” on his car . Kats

The ConVerTT hinge pocket, everyone's going to want one now.

https://media1.tenor.com/images/06d07e233d45afdc8b383fa783285b67/tenor.gif?itemid=12425143

Back in business .... Rails and rad support "complete". She's probably finally strong enough to consider switching from the jig to a rotisserie ???

Datsun Spirit valves are in my E31! Next is flow testing. Thanks for all the help Andrew Kazanis Details: New guides, bronze guide liners, reamed to size, seats cut, three broken studs removed.

Yes, the 'factory' Nissan parts resemble the contemporary Lotus 'race' parts to my eye. I think there was a difference between the Lotus road cars and the Lotus race cars, and the road car stuff was certainly beefier than the race stuff. The Lotus race FRP parts/bodies I've seen were - I believe - made by Specialised Mouldings (they made for other companies such as Lola and GRD) when Lotus moved premises from Cheshunt to Hethel, whereas the early Lotus roadgoing FRP stuff was sturdier and perhaps not as refined. The quality of the Nissan FRP parts is similar to what I've seen on gliders. I took some original Nissan race option parts to an FRP specialist here in England for some repair work, and they remarked on the quality. They were quite surprised that the parts dated from the early 1970s, and pointed out the finesse in the detail areas. Quite time-consuming work, they said. Here's a couple of photos of a (repaired, and in primer) factory 432-R bonnet: I would imagine - from looking at it - that this was made in two pieces, with the outer skin section made in one piece and then the inner section (with the steel hinge brackets, prop bracket and the captive nuts for the male catch mechanism moulded into it) was bonded to it.

Notice the difference of the edge between Hoover's hood with a turned in lip, and the FRP hood with its thickened edge. Alan, how would you compare the construction of Nissan's FRP and Lotus bodywork? I have been looking at a lot of Lotus' lately and I'm seeing striking similarities.

The Z432 tail tube and the standard exhaust manifold are now ready for a new paint . The 20010-E8730 is a NOS , but need to be painted to much other parts. Me , sticking with a standard single pipe muffler ! Because my ZG’s tube has 05/72 date code on the tube , I can’t replace it with a new one . Kats

Hard to tell from that photo, and many FRP hoods/bonnets tend to look similar in my experience. Factory FRP parts were a bit of a moving target in any case due to constant evolution, and I've seen design changes on the hoods/bonnets. Construction method and material is one thing, but if you look at enough factory FRP parts you do start to see a vernacular and that can help to pin things down in the same way that the work of a particular artist can be identified by his techniques and even his individual brush strokes. And - like fine art - provenance is very important. Before trying to identify an individual piece you'd want to have some clues as to dates, how it was acquired and where from. Big panels are expensive to ship, and - certainly here in England and I imagine the case in North America - there were plenty of people who could take a mould off a factory steel panel and start producing composite versions for much less than a factory item would cost. I've found the early factory FRP parts to be very nicely made, and perhaps more 'precise' than similar period race/rally FRP items from privateers or aftermarket suppliers. I guess you could say that they are more towards aeronautical type quality rather than nautical. I'll dig out some reference photos. Here's one to start. Hinge bracket area on a factory FRP bonnet. Note the characteristic woven 'cloth' roving and steel bracket bonded into it:

Ok, onward with the work at hand - reconstruction in progress: Fit turned out really nice with this custom piece: Some more that had to be cut out because it was just too damaged: It is actually pretty incredible how far rust goes when it takes hold. Eventually the removal of cancer came to an end and reconstruction started to take hold: Some red oxide primer was used in hidden areas and welding of replacements finally began: Though never seen by anyone, grinding down welds couldn't be helped: Zooming in on some of the welds to the thinest original metal: I will soon be able to finish the work in this area. Drilled through in preparation for rosette welds...

Well I tried my fancy azz press tool on a “fresh” tail housing pin. Not quite perfected. It was not pushing dead straight and the threaded portion began to bend. Quite happy it didn’t snap. resorted to more heat and a punch with the fancy azz new support tube/angle iron. Still no joy. Still too much bounce in the system. Decided to try the air hammer. Machined one of the tips with a flat and 1/4 hole to catch the end of the bolt. Well I have to tell you, it popped free in about 2 milliseconds of pounding. I suppose I had loosened it up a bit with previous attempts. Let’s just say that’s true... For me, the right thing to do is to just use the dang air hammer, making that hole in the side of the case first if you have to, and plugging later. Having decent backup, even a chunk of wood wedged in there, would be plenty.

My painter has cut, aligned and welded the sculpture. He’s almost ready to paint. I’ll bring him the emblem, mirror and chrome trim and then it should be impressive. Gonna be awesome!

Well, I didn't want to do this but it worked.... Spent the afternoon test fitting the hood and fenders...I think everything will be OK ...

Just to pile on...Lead acid batteries work because of the semi-reversible chemical reaction. The lead plates eventually react with the sulfuric acid to produce lead sulfate since that compound has a lower energy state. The speed and finality of the reaction is dependent upon how much and how long you discharge the battery. Eventually semi-reversible becomes irreversible. So why does capacity drop so much with little changes in voltage? Think of battery as a water tower. The pressure is proportional to the height of the water tower. As this particular water tower gets older, the inside is getting filled with sediment, and the sediment is also going down the pipe and sticking to the inside of the pipe. When you measure the water pressure (voltage), it still looks good, but with the pipe out of the water tower getting clogged, you don't get any water flow (current). Since the inside of the tank is also filled with sediment, the water empties quickly, and you have no pressure. (The voltage goes to zero.)

Yes, you are correct that I should have done this from day one. However, due to my limited knowledge of the Japan market when we first started (and my young inexperienced self), it wasn't really pondered until now. I attribute this change to a recent visit to Japan, having the honor to meet Kats, and a short drive in his 432. I fell in love with the car and became wildly fascinated about it. Also considering my total lack of understanding about the R-series (see above), I decided to make this addition to the club. While I agree that most of the 432 discussions are mixed throughout the site into other threads, I still think we could use some dedicated space for the car. Here's what I am planning: Create a new forum category for the Japanese market cars -- both 432 and regular market cars. Find specific forum threads about the 432 & 432-R, and move the entire thread into this new area. Find images about the car, and post links to the new area. I believe you also have some. Existing threads that have a 'blend' of both standard S30 (or US market S30) content with 432 content will NOT be pulled apart. I do not believe in taking apart conversations. However, if the content is focused on the 432, I would like to move the whole thread into the new area. Regarding the Kats thread, I agree it has been wildly popular. Finding the thread was a bit more difficult because it was buried. The idea behind this change is to allow people to research based on their specific interest in the Japanese market. Before this change, it was rather difficult to find information without hours of searching and reading. This may help put a focus on the area -- very similar to the Scarab, 240k, roadster, and other areas. Please let me know your thoughts.

'Superleggera'. ? In fact there were many details 'wrong' - especially interior-wise - on this car. It's a little risky to try to pin down a single factory spec for the roadgoing 432-Rs, but they certainly didn't have exposed 918 Grand Prix Orange paint visible in their interiors - apart from the rear deck area - as they were all satin black. It was a little jarring to see freshly painted body colour in the forward section of the interior in this car, and where the missing diamond-pattern vinyl would have been. Many other examples of late 'personalisation' evident on the car too: Brake booster, KS 'Rally Mag' replica wheels, trumpet mesh covers, half-painted rear spoiler, Schroth harnesses etc. I wouldn't kick it out of bed, but some of these things are itches I'd want to scratch...

Mike, Whilst I appreciate your effort to create your new 'JDM' section, I reckon you're about 20 years too late. classiczcars.com had been discussing these cars as part of the S30-Series pretty much since you founded the forum, and the content is (I think pretty much inextricably) woven into the tapestry of our historical forum thread content. I can't see how that Japanese market-specific content can be isolated, extracted and given a new home without losing its original context? And what will happen to the conversations from which is has been extracted? Will they too lose their context? I'm not sure I understand. For example, Kats' thread: ...has been running since 2007, is ever-popular, always interesting and - I think I'm correct - one of the most popular threads on this forum in terms of hits, comments and member participation. This thread alone has brought much to the conversation here and has informed and educated in the process. That education works both ways, as I believe much has been learned about both the 'Datsun 240Z' and the 'Fairlady Z432' models and other variants. But how do you distill the 'JDM' content from that?