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Finally getting around to installing the new dash. Removal went easy, the cluster of connectors on the pass side and a few singles on the driver side. those on the driver side were removed while the dash was being pulled off, the cluster were undone before the removal process. I also removed the steering wheel all the plastic parts, and the turn signal/combo switch just leaving the bare steering shaft and the ign cylinder. That had those silly tamper proof bolts that I did not want to fuss with. removed the console finisher and the floor console of course. I removed the gauges tack and speedo, the vents the hoses. it was a good time to tidy up the connections as they were quite loose due to the loss of the foam that surrounds the hard plastic junctions. I wrapped some electrical tape around the plastic junction ends to increase the OD so the hoses would fit nice and tight. After I sorted the HVAC I moved on to the actual dash install. some observations: On mine the hard point above the cig lighter was misaligned, I ended up drilling my own hole for that sheet metal screw. Careful so as not to punch thru the das pad. carefully cut out the hole for the cig lighter and the two holes for the dimmer pot and trip meter setting. The instrument cluster fit well for the speedo and the tach, the other gauges required a lot of finesse to make sure they were set in enough to make sure there were no gaps around the bezel. It seems to me this could be a bit deeper to allow for a less precise fit being required. I ended up adding some foam tape the backs of the straps that hold the gauges in place, as is the were just a bit too far forward for the straps to hold them tight up to the dash. A good bump and I suspect they could jar loose leaving a gap from the bezel to the dash. Not a show stopper just something to make sure you have secure so it does not happen. Everything installed I moved on to the glove box. this is something that should be addressed. The flap of material around the opening is too thick. On my OE dash the flap of material is JUST the plastic covering. On the V dash its got about 3/32 of foam under the dash material That is just enough to keep the small screws that go around the perimeter from engaging the clip on retainers that fit on the metal dash. I ended up digging out the foam with a small screw driver to thin this out. I should have done this before starting the process with the dash off the metal frame. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED.... just look at your OE dash and make sure the glove box area is the same. Overall the fit and finish are very good. I presume as good as the OE but for the glove box mentioned and the cig lighter metal hard point being misaligned. I caught the cig lighter and corrected before installing the dash. I thought I could get away with the glove box, but ended up fixing that after all was installed. I have the dash mostly back installed, just have to go around and tighten up the 10mm bolts around the edges, it was a bit of a struggle, my wife helped with the wires on the driver side, after a failed 1st try, we got it. Had to get the dash close enough to connect the wires and still install with out tugging it loose. Another warning you maybe tempted to remove the mount that fits under the AC control panel, it was in the way making things hard. I removed it but failed to consider how I would struggle with reinstalling it after the dash was in. the very control panel that I was trying to avoid made it very hard to get the mount back installed. I am making some videos, not so much of the process as that would be nearly impossible to do by myself, but stages of completion will post up later.

Somewhere a hundred pages back or so, I said I was looking forward to the bodywork.... was I on glue? The long block is amazing but it is tedious on vertical surfaces. I need more sandpaper and more of the “icing” filler that goes on so nice.

Our late father's 1972 240Z is for sale in Texas. He was the original owner. Please note the mileage listed is wrong, as the gentleman handling the sale for our mother was not initially aware that the odometer had rolled over. I would be happy to try to answer any questions you may have. I stumbled upon this site by accident, so hope it isn't inappropriate to post this. Listing is here: https://sanantonio.craigslist.org/cto/d/marion-1972-datsun-240z/7056714243.html

You should get some pictures from underneath. The rust spots. Looks like a nice car.

Interesting observation, Kats. I wonder if this anomaly can be attributed to degrading of the underlying seat foam over nearly half a century. That coupled with the driver's seat being primarily used and the vinyl has possibly conformed to the foam beneath it. Unfortunately, I can't test my hypothesis unless I can see the car firsthand and give the seats the Charmin squeeze test ? Perhaps I'll create a GoFundMe account and have forum members enable me to place the winning bid on this gem, so I can commence with proving or disproving of my theory ?

It’s not that I don’t trust the damper pulley marks but just following the rebuild book which talks about using a dial indicator to set TDC before putting the head on and avoid potentially damaging a valve. The timing cover goes on after and now I can verify the position. I set TDC using the dial Indicator then temporarily placed the timing cover and damper on to validate the markings. With the crankshaft set as the video shows my damper indicates between 0 and 1 deg. Now I know exactly what the pulley should show. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey Kats! I don't understand your comment about a later seat back. What am I missing? Please explain.

Not a problem at all. I sold that Z probably 5-6 years ago but it was a harsh ride. Due to the lower spring perch on the front, the Eibach springs made the car very susceptible to bottoming out. This is not due to coil bind but to a lack of travel in the dampers with the car that low. My current Z sits lower on coil-overs but it rides much better than my old orange car because I sectioned 2" out of the struts. Frankly, I'd stay with the 280Z springs and make the rear work if you want more sports-car handling without sacrificing impact harshness as much. If you can do a little measuring, you should be able to figure out how much extra height you need. Measure ride height (e.g. wheel lip to wheel well), jack up rear end until it sits where you want it, re-measure ride height. Multiply that change in height by the rear motion ratio (~0.90) and you'll have your desired spacer height. Motion ratio reference: https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/63492-suspension-tech-motion-ratio-unsprung-weight/

I get a chuckle that people posted on the BaT auction thread if the clock works. As if an inoperative clock will be a deal breaker on what will easily be a six-figure auction result.

$42,240 ATM, this should be fun.

yeah, I was going to say don't pull on that hand brake too hard. Doesn't matter really, just long as they have room to radiate heat and catch the breeze. You'll notice a difference when you get the SS flex lines, I found they really firmed the pedal up.