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Sorry no tricks with the bearing, but I have a trick to putting that C clip back on. You put your back into it, literally. Get one of those 1” wide tie down ratchet strap things, sit in the car, put the steering wheel retaining nut back on the tip of the column. Wrap your tie down strap around the threads behind the nut, sit a bit forward, then wrap the strap around your back under the arms more or less, and tie it off back to the column. Then get the snap ring tool ready, (you did put the snap ring on the shaft before the nut and the strap right?) just lean back and pull the column toward you. Put the snap ring back on, then lean forward to remove the tension. You’ll be surprised how easy it is. After you realize you can’t undo the knots you made, wait for your wife to discover you in the garage and set you free. Prepare an appropriate story of how you got that way, while you wait, then invite her to tie herself to the glove box so you can do something together for once.

For the archives:

It is enormous, and so are the calipers.

Simple answer, no. Nothing official anyway. If anyone wants to include a stoplight grand prix then maybe... The photos are from the 'All Japan Fuji 300 Mile' race at Fuji Speedway on 7th June 1970. A rather complicated points race system, the race was run in two heats (each at 40 laps, giving 150 miles) and the overall result was a combined total of points from the two heats, intended to give a chance to all competitors. The blue #19 car was Saburo KOINUMA's privateer 432, and he finished 5th overall and Class 3 winner. The orange #8 car was Kazuyoshi HOSHINO's Works 432-R. That's not the starting grid. It's the main paddock area at Fuji and they are waiting whilst one of the minor supporting races is run.

Stick-on lead wheel weights with extra security of duct tape over the top? Pretty standard racer habit, even today.

Starting in 2003 we have gone from stock fronts and rear drums (autocrossing) to S8W to S12W and drums (track days) to S12W and Wilwood rears(vintage racing). RockAuto calipers taken apart and Swan coated. Have run Porterfield front pads and shoes until our various engines started to overrun the brakes (current: L28 - NA making 260rwhp). Moved to Carbotech 3 years ago all the way around. Brake ducts for the past two years. Motul 660 or 600. We would bleed before each race weekend and at the end of each day but not anymore. Upgraded to 280 booster and 15/16 MC along with stainless lines. Gutted stock prop valve and installed inline valve. Removed all this after 3 years and installed Wilwood pedals, bias adjuster and 3/4 front MC- 5/8 rear with equal length front brake lines the winter of 2018/19. Now moving to Wilwood front 4 piston calipers (12 inch dia & 1.25 inch wide rotors). Getting out braked by the SCCA guys running their 240/280s as GT-2s. All this on 15 inch wheels with either Toyo RA1s ( 225/45/15) or Hoosier R7s (225/45/15-front and 275/35/15 rear). Love the Toyos, they are great from the start if used as rain tires until you wear them down or have them shaved to 5/32. Under 5/32 they are like slicks. Very predictable. Hoosiers are a blast especially with the 10-inch rear wheels. In the rain 225 Hoosier wets all the way around, I have a set of Porterfield and Nismo rear shoes available.

Don't abuse it.

Mandatory fuel tank vent. Required by the regulations.

You've just quoted a link which contains at least three photos of the car in question. The All Japan Suzuka 300km meeting was spread over two days, with qualifying and supporting events on the 17th and the big race and a supporting card on the 18th. So the 432-R practiced & qualified on the 17th and raced on the 18th. Nissan press photos:

One of my off season projects for this year was to replace my sketchy looking intake duct tube between the AFM and the throttle body. I couldn't see any cracks all the way through, but it's just a matter of time. I know there are aftermarket repros available, but I've always kept my eyes open for other cars that had air intake tract hoses that looked similar to the 280Z. With that in mind, and my never ending quest to find cheap ubiquitous replacements for OEM parts, I nabbed this on off a 2002 Ford Taurus: Here it is compared to the stock connector. The angle is almost perfect, but there are some issues. First, it's a little too long and second, the big end (AFM end) is too big: Taking care of the length is simple. Quick work with the razor knife to remove about a half inch from the small end where the hose clamp was and then put the hose clamp back on a little further up: Second problem... The big end is a little too big. The AFM is 2.75 diameter, but the Taurus hose is 3" diameter: So (on the lathe) I made a spacer ring out of aluminum: Put a little sealer on the joint and press the spacer into place. Now I've got an AFM with a 3 inch outlet instead of the original 2 3/4 inches: Put everything back on the car and it looks like this. Cheap, ubiquitous, and although it isn't stock, it doesn't stand out like blue silicone tubes. One more step in having every molecule of air going through the AFM instead of around it:

Yes, there is a driver called "cabinet" driving a "joint oil Honda", whilst someone else is driving a "general sprinter", or how about a "grinning publica" model of car? Obviously not funny to the person who this is meant to be. It sort of defeats the object of posting info/names like this up, when they are clearly wrong.

Except the Works competition department had cars well before October 1969, and had been consulting on the very fabric of the car before it went into production. Why the obsession? Are you trying to prove something to somebody somewhere?

There was also a 4.3km lap format.

This event was run on the 6km lap layout for Fuji Speedway.

Instructions on how to install a new inexpensive power antenna to work with the OEM antenna up/down switch.When I purchased my 1972 Fairlady Z-L it only had the 8-track face plate and a loose antenna switch. The 8-track unit itself was missing. I purchased an old 8 track off ebay, 3d printed some parts to build a mock up unit. It does not play but cartridges can be inserted, the buttons work and it looks original. The up/down switch is secured and functional. I am in the process of putting in a secret audio head unit so that I have a radio and use Bluetooth. I wanted to replace the manual antenna with a power antenna. However new antennas operate differently. Original antenna uses two wires, power one and the unit goes up, power the other and the unit goes down.New antennas operate like this;up - power to both red and green wiresdown - power to red wire only. (however I discovered that the antenna needs a pulse to both wires first to turn it on.)I achieved this with the use of three bosch type relays, a capacitor (1000 microfarad) and resistor (10k Ohm) to provide a pulse to the green wire. The capacitor/resistor powers the third relay for about 0.5 Seconds Relay 1 and 2 for up ensure that the circuits are isolated from the down wiring. Relay 3 provides the pulse to green for down.

Alan - were there no Zs of any form raced in Japan before 1970 ? https://www.racingsportscars.com/races/search.html?coun=J&year=1969 https://www.racingsportscars.com/races/search.html?coun=J&year=1970 Might the two cars in the photo : red no.8 and blue no.19 be invitational entries at...Fuji - testing ? They're certainly up against and apparently well-placed on the grid against some very serious competition.

How about you clean it up so we can see what the actual condition is? If those brown spots are rust we need to know before making an offer.

This interprit contains not correct part, and I see also Japanese text is not right , Mr.Fujita should select Japanese words correctly . The point is , there is no stock L24 which has better paformance than the racing S20 , Never . (We know L type engine was born from practical parents , S20 engine was born from racing parents ) . Maybe people want to disrespect S20 in some reason , but a stock L24 and a stock S20 are almost same performance. A racing L24 and a racing S20 are almost same performance. The one has more capacity , the other has more advanced technology. That's it . They both are awsome engine , just enjoy each "feelings" , "flavor" . I haven't heard from S20 owners saying "my S20 is better than the L20 , 24... , etc. Kats

I've used a towel in the past.

Here are a couple of pix that I have on file that show the placement of the 'vent' holes in the later-design hatch side panels (I'm pretty sure that the panels for the Series 1 design did not have these holes). I don't have a precise measurement (and I'm too lazy to go out to the garage to make one), but the holes appear to be about 2/3 the diameter of the holes used for the plastic rivets... In the 1980's, I worked as a project engineer for a company that designed and built wind tunnels (not model-scale -- the real ones) for the automotive and aerospace industries. We worked with Porsche, Honda, Volvo, Ford, Hyundai and others (even Williams GP Engineering, but that's another story). It was clear that the auto manufacturers at that time were only just beginning to pay proper attention to locating and sizing the cabin extractor vents for effective HVAC performance. The Z was designed in the late 1960's and the extractor vent positioning appears to have been based on educated guesswork rather than wind tunnel testing (although Nissan did own a wind tunnel at the time). Even when working as designed, the Series 1's extractor vent system can be best described as an intriguing but complicated failure. The re-location of the vents in the C-pillars got rid of the exhaust fume problem and the water drainage requirement (along with a lot of parts and assembly steps), but the revised design doesn't provide enough outlet area to be very effective. So I wouldn't be too concerned about venting the plastic interior trim panels because it's not going to make much difference.

The spokes should be a black semi-gloss according to the resto article in Sport Z magazine. The rim is a molded plastic with the color in the plastic, it's not actually wood so a stain probably wouldn't work. After sanding the rim smooth it is covered in a semi-gloss clear lacquer to give it the right amount of shine. The issue is the fall 2001 of Sport Z, you might try to see if it is still available to be ordered as a back issue.