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Slowly making progress over the last couple of weeks, removed front and rear bumpers, grill and all lights, horns and tail light finisher. Also drained and removed the fuel tank and removed all emblems. Drained coolant, removed fan shroud, radiator and battery. So far no parts have been harmed and no stripped fasteners. Wick Humbles book has proved useful. This would probably have been less that half a day for @motorman7. Lol Happy to report that all of the emblems are metal originals, not the later plastic replacements. No posts were broken during removal, I did find that the front hood emblem was missing one post and had a lot of double sided adhesive tape keeping it in place. I used a flat putty knife to remove them.

Sorry, checks, cash, money orders or Western Union or Walmart cash transfers only (when you walk into my shop it's 1972) Cheers PS My fuse link it about 1/4 inch longer than the originals to compensate for surgery that may have occurred in the past

Amsterdam in 1974

Here's my first Zed at the 1980 Knox Mountain Hillclimb in Kelowna B.C. Canada's longest running motorsport event! The local part store ran out of Yellow Trem Clad rattle cans so I had to paint the hood and home made airdam blue!

Not yet . Put everything back together and drove it and she ran good . Got back home and noticed a puddle of oil under the car after parking . I caught the oil pan seal putting the cover on and tore it. So off with the oil pan . Today I drove around and noticed the engine wasn’t building temp. I could hear the fan still turning hard when the engine was cold. Checked to find my clutch fan had gone bad. I’ve had this a long time so I can’t complain too bad - but damn it! i ordered a new clutch. Currently the engine struggles to get to 170. It has always ran right up to 180 and stayed . Temps dropped around here but I think the stuck fan is prolonging warm period to the point that it’s showing on the plugs - but there’s more. THEN I drove it some more to find my brakes were weak. Checked out my vacuum was low - why? Eventually found PCV elbow was torn around the clamp . Now troubleshooting some dirty plugs on 5&6. Thought the worst - HG- but engine leak down test, coolant pressure test, vacuum test are all good. So at least the long block is sound . Power is great, but could be better . Last time I had the mysterious miss it was my fairly new plug wires were bleeding over to each other . This seems similar , but not a dead miss, just carboned plugs . I think I knee jerk reacted to the last issue and went too cold on my plugs. I have 8’s in there now to compensate( at least I thought) for the increased CR. I am putting 7’s back in for now and maybe I’ll find my way back to 6’s yet. I’ll run the 7’s and see if that makes a difference . Good things? The new CV axles are great. My clutch MC fix transformed the shifting experience of the car . It lightened the pedal pressure by 25%.

Not only that, but the wife made the sandwich for me.

Okay, the fried egg sandwich and tater tots hit the spot. Thankfully, I found a photo on my computer so I don't have to go out to the garage. I'm getting old and lazy. You can find it here: http://www.zzxdatsun.com/catWiring.php. It's part number WH-03.

Some old and new photos of my '73 240Z. (I am the original owner) My 240Z in 1973 1982, Daily Driver loved by our daughter . 2019: after restoration - loved by the next generation

Sorry, I don't know for sure but I think they were introduced for the '72 model year.

Manually count the crownwheel teeth and pinion teeth to be sure. As far as I am aware (and I just checked the Nissan Sports 'Final Drive & Limited Slip' factory bible to be sure) only the R200 was available with a 3.1 (actually 3.151) ratio, with a 41 tooth crownwheel and 11 tooth pinion. Lowest numerical ratio on the R180 was the 3.364.

I'm looking at the photo and it reminds me of when friends from Sydney came to visit. It worried him when we parked the car. Especially when the wheel touch the "railing". You can see what I mean on the other side of the canal. I like the way they still don't use any kind of railing. Well, just enough to trip you so you fall in head first?

Man, some people like to brag...

I realized after rereading the thread that this is an untouched used bottom end - so your numbers are healthy for sure . I would be happy with the vacuum readings for sure . I have a 54 block with 110k miles that I need to put a head on . I don’t plan on touching it either since the bores look perfect .

I forgot to add that the other good thing was my cable linkage has been flawless so far - but I probably jinxed myself now -lol

I went and got a harbor freight leak down tester. Not sure how accurate they are, but the readings are a consistent 12% approx loss on all 6 cyl. I can hear a faint bit of hissing through the oil filler hole, but can't feel any air through there or the dip stick. Vacuum at hot idle is 22hg. It shoots up to about 25 if you blip the throttle. No strange movements of the needle. Nice and steady. The plug condition has leaned out a bit too. I'll still be keeping an eye on things. Sent from my Coolpad 3310A using Tapatalk

I think it was this:

I could only find TonyD mention on HybridZ about max velocity and differential. He may know: I can't find any else. yet

Maybe a stuck ring loosened up and started sealing again.

Here's one the first items to be removed, the dealer installed rub strips. They were attached with a combination of sheet metal screws for some and pop rivets for others. They definitely wont be going back on. Thinking green, I was able to re-purpose them...

Got enough of the interior out to get a good visual of the problem areas, here is what I found. Luckily so far I have only broken this one retainer on the RH kick panel, not sure how I could have saved it. Overall I'm not too shocked with what I have found and I won't be pulling much more until I have selected a restoration shop to work with. I want to keep the car drivable as long as possible.