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Hello all!! As some will remember, I was working on a drop in replacement ECU for our Z's & had to take a hiatus when my daughter was born. This week she started kindergarten (my how time flies when you have young ones underfoot). Last month I began un-mothballing the project and gearing up to finish. Apologies of course for the delay, but rest assured I haven't forgot about this. The status when I paused was this: 1 - The prototype board came up nicely and I was driving my car around using 100% stock L-Jet components (save for the HellFire ECU of course)....poorly tuned at best & no enrichment code was in place which caused some stumbling when I floored it. This was expected & I didn't care, I was all smiles that it worked as well as it did. 2 - The primary GUI functionality is present, but has a *LOT* of debug screens and added test buttons here and there. It's quite cluttered as I continue to test/debug, but will be getting cleaned up as I progress. The GUI does look good and I'm mostly happy with the interface. Still quite a bit of legwork to make this clean and presentable. The communication with the ECU has been rock solid & realtime data is sent continuously to the pc to see while the engine is running. Firmware update via the Laptop needs to be finished. 3 - 20 ECU boards are assembled & just need programming to production firmware. 4 - Sensors (Primarily the pain the arse AFM) still need to be calibrated & the tables loaded with qualified data. Currently I have data that is *close* but can be better. I built a flow bench to calibrate the AFMS. I have about 20 or so AFMs from various years to play with. It will be interesting to see how they have aged. I'm guessing poorly. ? The flowbench still needs some attention & will be the first on the list to work on. 5 - I need to qualify/test the stock injectors to characterize their average opening time and flow rates. I have some stock numbers in the tables now that work, but they can be improved. 6 - Various tuning tables need to be added, (acceleration, cold start, other enrichments) 7 - Then I need to tune it of course to the stock engine. I have one bone stock 77 engine and another that is bone stock plus the addition of a mild cam. I have a wideband O2 on the engine that I will use to assist with tuning. I keep wanting to build a dyno as well, but sanity so far has kept me from running down that rabbit hole. It feels good to be back on the project & I'm excited to make some headway. I'll post some progress pics on the flowbench and AFM results when they are available, and feel free to pester, prod, poke, or ask questions about the project. Len Here's a link to the last thread:

Well someone in 2017 did a pretty well designed study on 10 of these new fangled high ZDDP oils intended for old classic cars such as ours. I know we have discussed this in the past, don't remember if we referenced this study before. My apologies if so. Results were surprising to the author. Hopefully it will shed light on the current "hype" on this topic and perhaps result in fewer scarred cams and rockers around these parts. https://onedrive.live.com/?authkey=!AHKKfKJ3E11RU1E&cid=FD59A041A3808BD5&id=FD59A041A3808BD5!1416&parId=FD59A041A3808BD5!207&o=OneUp Note: This contribution originally posted by a well known Z owner, Chickenman, on the510realm. http://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=31832

Rebuilt engines need the zddp protection more if anything. Older engines I think may have a degree protection from work hardening.

Thanks for the input. It does have the ability to datalog. I haven't done that, yet. I still need to change the fuel filter. I can't remember if I changed it when I did the bumper swap. If I didn't, it's been on there a while. Then I can do the datalogging. After that, I can send the info off to Affordable Fuel Injection for a different map.

@Captain Obvious - you aren't OCD, are yoU? To add to the conversation - I recall my original lid was a hard plastic - like ABS as Chris describes. My current one is a padded type with about 2" of foam covered with a vinyl type material. I'm too lazy to take apart a functioning part. I mean, who would jump out of a perfectly good airplane? Insanity!!!

That's the direction I'd go. Perhaps two surface checks. One cold and one hot.

As I understand it, the problem is always in the center carb. and only when it's hot. It would be interesting to see how much hotter the center carb. base gets verses the outer ones. Is it possible the manifold (and carb. base) are warping due to the heat and or the manifold is transferring too much heat to the carb. base? Have others had this problem using Canon manifolds?

New pin arrived today in the mail it’s copper color unlike the one I took out that was silver but it fits perfect no play at all between the arm and the rod. I also was able to straighten out the rod pretty easily. Now I am just waiting on my o rings from courtesynissan to ship before I can put it together again. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That is what I thought. And you replaced that middle one with one of the others. After doing that you have the same issue. Then I go back to my original statement. I deduce that it is then Nothing to Do With the Carb At All. Need to look elsewhere.

Even running Rotella for a long time now . Drive my car hard ! Cam looks new every time I look at it

Ah, interesting. Is that with that middle carb disconnected from the linkage? If so, I'd suggest something in that carb is binding as it heats up and the metal expands. Could be the throttle plates themselves (need recentering) or possibly the shaft or bearings.

When its hot and acting up, can you still close the throttle plates with your fingers?

Bye-bye VR-1, I see Lucas oil coming to a crankcase near me very soon. Very enlightening study, thanks for posting.

So, next time I’m out there I’ll take a look for you. I have one extra 280z steering wheel and three 240z steering wheels. I grabbed the 240z wheels to use on my car and was going to restore the extras (got three because they looked rough and wasn’t sure how a restoration would come out,needed backups), plan is sell the others at some point. The extra 280z wheel came with my car when I bought it from the PO. It needs a wrap to cover the rubber which looks pretty sun beaten. Here’s the before and after of my 240z steering wheel restoration. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Another idea... I've read on here where cars that sat needed fuel poured into the overflow bungs to get the floats moving up and down maybe unsticking the fuel valves? If you get the float chambers full of fuel at least it would run for a little longer than ether. Maybe if you got it going and worked the throttle rod it would fix itself? Kinda like an "Italian tune up". Good luck!

The Horns are working again! Take the 6 screws out (on the front) at the edge, NOT the middle one.. leave that one in. There is a contact under the small steel bridge.. this bridge is adjustibke by the screw on the back. Clean the contact and adjust the screw on the back out.. In my case there was some sand or grit between the contacts, clean it thoroughly. put it al together and connect it to a battery or pwrsupply. (12v at least 3 A) then adjust the screw on the back in so it sounds as it should… paint it and ready to install.