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While you have those gauges apart you should pull the guts and repaint the insides of the cans a nice bright flat white. No matter what bulbs you choose, that will always help. Personally I don't like the harshness of the LED replacement "bulbs" that I have seen - I'm very old school that way. But repainting the inside of my gauges made a huge change in the brightness even using stock 3.4 watt bulbs.

I do not have an answer for the teeth count, but I think you are correct as too all of the different tooth count colored cogs being different diameters as well . I am sure they compensated for the different diameters by off-setting the housing to bring the gear back in full contact with the main gear.

@dmorales-bello

The easiest way I 've found is just to look at the threads heading into the nut, they will be sloped in one direction, turn the nut so it will climb the slope away from where it is now.

Crazy question. In a 4 or 5 speed trans, there is a plastic gear on the output shaft that drives the speedo cog. I need to know the number of teeth on that shaft gear. I've had several trannies apart in the past and recycled more of these shafts that I can remember, but never kept one! Why you ask? I have a electronic vehicle speed sensor on my 5 speed now, attached to the speedo cog output housing, and need to compute it's output frequency vs wheel speed. To get a ballpark number, I need the tooth count on the shaft gear to get the speed vs RPM data to enter into my Haltech tuning software. (I get my MPH from a GPS speedometer) If someone just happens to have a tranny apart and can count, it will save me some time at the dyno. Just to record this, I'm using a very special little dohicky made by a Toyota 4x4 offroad support company that came up with a lovely little low cost custom VSS that plugs directly onto the speedo cog housing of many Toyota's and quite conveniently many early Nissans's as well. Outputs the most perfect little 5v square wave. In case there are any others of you that are crazy enough to go DIY EFI in the future. Picture below.

On its way to you Monday... !

? Ya, I noticed that after I reinstalled the speedo a few weeks ago. I've just been too lazy to get back under there to change that lower right bulb... I don't do much night time 140mph driving anyway. I mostly use that left side of the speedo. You guys may have shamed me into doing it before October though.

Thanks guys, this is all great advice!!!! Jon that is good to know, thank you, will look into that option. Mr grannyknot - you’ve given me something good to think about there. Is suspect I may have those Tokico springs as they don’t look stock and the PO has loads of receipts for Tokico stuff. A great shout on the bump stops too. A member in the UK has kindly offered a set of those springs so once I finally make my mind up he will save me a penny or two on import duties. I will be sure to call Zcardepot tomorrow eve - uk time ;) - thanks for the heads up.

Have you tried sliding the striker back and forth, hard, to loosen it up? You could also double-nut the threads and give it some hard twisting. If I know the shape it's a wedge that should pop free if stressed right.

That, along with a ton of persuasion, worked! I can't believe how tight both of those nuts were. I'm not very big, so persuading is not something I excel at.

I never knew they shared a stage before! Obviously not in the same league though.? But sometimes you want you want something sugary and then sometimes you want to get stoned and lay back. And even then sometimes you want both!

I've been hearing for the past year that the Illumina shocks are no longer available for Z cars, I have a set and they are good but as soon as one fails I'll be going with the Konis. Eibach lowering springs are one of the most popular springs for our cars for a reason, they work. I used to have a set of the Tokico lowering springs and I was bottoming out just like you describe, but no problems with the Eibach springs. Bump stops are very important, the hard urethane are practically useless for cushioning, when the shock hits them it really does STOP. But the newer urethane foam bump stops are a different ball game, they are progressive, Koni makes a good urethane foam bump stop as well.

You can get custom made springs Ali for not too much. Less than those Eibachs I expect. Springcoil.co.uk made mine. They even let me send them back a couple of times for just carriage cost (because I mis-specced them)

When you say "horn relay" are you going by a part # on the relay can? Did you trace them? Is there a possibility that a PO put in the relays for a different circuit than the horn, maybe headlights? This could be an early attempt at Dave Irwin's designed headlight relay harness and maybe the relays are now toast.. There is a headlight plug and play harness mod to remove the load of the headlights from the combo switch stalk in the 240Z's. It's available from thezstore https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic10l/12-4651

Just picked up #6106, repaint wasnt the best, a decent amount of paint/rust bubbles but interior is in good shape, pretty much new everything on 95/96 original motor got scrapped had over 95k miles in 78 ? the owner sure did love this car.

Look through this thread. Page 2 has some gauge info.

Picked my car up from body shop prison. Just did touch ups on rocker panels and rear valence. STOKED !!!!

Good job, just one minor thing that could turn into major, the tie wraps on the outboard end of the boots go on the very end of the rubber so they are tight around the smooth section of the threaded rod. Where you have them now dirt can still get in and foul up the ball joint.