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motorman7
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Patcon
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siteunseen
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Rill Cosby
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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/17/2019 in all areas
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3 pointsI guess it's a bit of a challenge getting this just right. Can't make it too shiny, don't want it too dull. I did get the manifolds installed last night. Nice to be working back on the engine. I temporarily placed the balance tube and flat tops on just to see what things will be looking like. The balance tube is a bit of a challenge. That brass plug on top is pretty hard to get out....even with the vice grips. Will have to try the fire and ice method on this and see if that helps to loosen it. Also broke off a fitting on the underside of the tube so I will need to drill and tap that out. I had to re-tap the threads for the air galley. Those threads are M14 X 1.5 for anyone interested. The good thing is that my water tube and exhaust tube for the EGR are in nice shape. I did a quick fit check on those. I will install as much of the tubing as I can before I actually install the carbs.
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3 pointsI don't think anyone is saying that. On the other hand, some people seem happy to dismiss factory settings and data without even knowing what they are. It's all useful. And when you are restricted to period-correct and/or FIA homologated parts then the parts that the factory used in period are far more relevant than any fancy remote-reservoir WRC type struts. Personally speaking, one of the things I like about owning old cars is the fact that they are old. Period tuning parts appeal to me. I don't necessarily care about "what works now", and I certainly won't be fitting that new inboard rocker arm design rear suspension system to any of my cars. Yes we all have to be pragmatic - I am pretty much forced to use modern tyres, oils and fuel in my cars - but a '32 coupe with an Ardun headed flattie is much more my cup of tea than a '32 coupe with an LSX crate engine, even if the LSX is "better"...3 points
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3 pointsJust wanted to say thanks for everyone who helped out. I didn't want to leave the thread hanging for people of the future but the finding was nothing revolutionary. After checking and seeing the choke was working properly I went back to search for leaks. I decided to try a smoke method and couldn't get anything. I tried using carb cleaner to look for leaks in the past but out of frustration I tried it again and used A LOT. After puddling formed around the balance tube the leak finally revealed itself on the side of the balance tube. Now that is sealed, it's almost back to it's normal self. That is until I installed the new 123ignition distributor. That'll keep me busy for the next couple of days. Thanks everyone for the help.3 points
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2 pointsAt this point I view sub 500s as $100k cars. So 22k for a not disaster project seems pretty reasonable. You do bring up a good point about some of the missing pieces that could be hard to replace. I always wanted a low number car but I have pretty much gotten over that because I want driver cars. The sub 500 cars are quickly becoming too rare to be practical to put miles on.2 points
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2 pointsI haven't decided what path forward I'm going to take, but whatever that path, I will be sure to take pics. I did not look for stuck valves. I haven't done anything else beyond that short video clip other than go out to the driveway and open the hood on the 83 and look inside. I was NOT getting bored. I'm so backed up with car work at this point that one more thing is absolutely not desired at this point. In fact... I'm cleaning up after dinner last night and the hot water coming out of the tap is way hotter than usual. Dangerously scalding hot. Take a look a the water heater and it's got water dripping from somewhere out the top. Not good... I killed the breaker. SWMBO isn't going to appreciate cold showers. Especially if I'm out in the driveway working on my car. Anyone want to help me wrestle a water heater down into the basement? I'm getting too old for this crap.2 points
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2 pointsNissan implies that it is. Are you planning to pull the head or just go ahead and swap engines? Did you look for stuck valves? Seems like if the shaft broke in the wrong spot a valve would have got bumped. Don't forget, we love destruction, even though it means more work for you, so take more pictures. Weren't you getting bored anyway...?
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2 pointsA very nice looking Z indeed, Congrats!! Many questions like this are answered with "What do you want to do with the car?" Cruise, race, show, rally, tour, some of two or three......more? The cool thing about these cars is mix and match. Any "B" trans should fit you car 73 just fine, no real mods. It's going from "A" to "B" or "A, B to C" thats the extra work. "B to B" is bolt up. R180 to R180 with different ratios is easy, as is R200 to R200. R180 to R200 needs a few more parts. An easy upgrade, IMO. The thing is to tune it to how you drive it. These are not all the options, but popular ones. Enjoy that new Z........
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@siteunseen, Well, I was $5k shy of the winning bid. I hope I can find another '69 production car someday that fits my budget.1 point
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1 pointI was surprised to see it show HP. Every other dyno run I have seen in Australia showed power in KW.1 point
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1 point175kph. That dyno is strange though working in HP and ft/lbs as most here in Aus use KW and NM.1 point
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1 pointThings to consider if you don't want to spend a lot of time working on the car and still want a 5 speed. Look for a 5 speed out of a 280Z or a 280ZX 2+2. They are both "wide ratio" FS5W71B transmissions. It will give you a first gear that is fairly close to your 4 speed. Still high, but close. The 280ZX Coupe "close ratio" FS5W71B will feel like you skipped first gear and started off is second. Try that with your 4 speed and see how it feels to start off in second gear. The next step would be to look for any 240Z, 260Z or a the 280Z after 77 with an automatic transmission. They have a 3.545:1 R180 diff and it is a direct replacement for you 3.364:1 R180. The 5th gear will still be taller than the original 4th, improving highway fuel economy, and give you better off the mark performance. They are the quick and easy mods. I can post an excel file on the ratios later when I am home if you want them. If you go "close ratio" then you will want to change the diff to something like the R200 3.7:1 or 3.9:1, but that is a more involved mod.1 point
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1 pointR180 on the left, R200 on the right. https://www.lainefamily.com/240Z_V8_Conversion-files/240Z_Conversion_Differential_Driveshaft.htm1 point
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Everybody I know is going to the tankless instant water heaters. When mine goes bad that's what i'm getting.1 point
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1 point1 pointThat was a long day at the shop! Good you got it sorted. That is one of the disadvantages of buying a project in a box. Always helpful to have someone who knows how all the details should be Cheers, enjoy!1 pointWow. must have been weakened from those 10,000 rpm shift points of your spirited driving . Only thing I can think of is a bearing froze after the break or a flaw in the metal that decided that was the time to let go.1 pointThis is the way back burner project, but looks like Miguel has been busy at the body shop. Nice to see some progress.
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1 pointHere are some pics of the new '72. I boxed up most of the parts and took them to the storage garage. I still have things that I need to pick up from the PO like fenders, hood, bumpers, 5 speed trans, brake lines, etc. This will have to sit for a bit while I finish other cars but I may dink on it here and there. Oh yes, and it came with the car cover, nice.
1 pointIt's a bit late here and the day was super busy, so no pics today. I will try and post some tomorrow. I did make the final payment of $5500 (so $6500 total for the car) to the owner today and picked up the car and most of the disassembled parts. I will have to make another trip to the PO's house to pick up the rest of the stuff some other day. So far, I am pretty happy with what I have bought.. In addition to the original radio and very nice interior (which looks bad in the pics above but great in person), I noticed that the car is also sporting the original spare (I think). Will post pics of that tomorrow. As I was sorting parts into storage bins, I noted the following items: A second steering wheel with new horn pad, two more sets of of 3 screw SU carbs (originals are on the motor), another new choke cable, a reconditioned clock that said 'working quartz' on the bag, all of the original jute in good condition with original carpeting, plus a brand new set of carpeting, a complete precision weather strip kit, 2 grills, bolts and screw in clearly marked bag indicating what area they were from, a number of boxed NOS interior parts among other things. So, looks like I have a lot of stuff to work with here.....when I get time to work on it As I was filling out paperwork with the PO, I guessed that the mileage was probably 165K given the 65K speedo indication. The PO, who is the second owner, said it is probably 65K. He said the original owner was a doctor in Nevada that did not drive the car that much as he was older and it was difficult for him to drive. He died and the car sat for quite some time until the doctors son eventually sold it. The PO bought it from the doctors son, drove it for a short while then started his 'restoraton' which didn't get very far. Again the car sat for years, until I picked it up. So, it could be just a 65K car. I guess I will probably know better when I open up the motor. Anyway, will try and post some pics tomorrow. Rich1 point0 pointsLast night was not good. My son was driving my daughter home from the movies in my Z, going across the Ballard bridge (drawbridge w/metal grating in the rain) when a pickup pulled into his lane. He swerved into oncoming traffic to avoid the truck, then cut back into his lane and the car went into a spin, crashing into the guardrail. Thankfully both kids walked away unscathed but I'm afraid it might be the end of the road for the Z... IMG_0013.HEIC IMG_0017.HEIC0 points
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