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Here's the two of them om Google Earth, looks like the other one is Orange. Datsun 240Zs

I'm trying to pick up myself. What you didn't see was the one behind me. Not as good shape but still a decent car. This one is an automatic early Gen. The current owner owns the Nissan dealer in the area. The car has been stitting in the backlot for about 10 years from what I understand. A friend of mine knows the General Manager, so I am woking through it. Its probably going to b a long process, with much persistence on my part.

So it has been a while. I hope the video posts correctly. 20190224_161240.mp4

Sorry, just one more post. Here are my roadster before and after pics.

Just finished the transmission here's a few photos.

Got this for my birthday, pretty cool haha.

Well, even though my 280Z is still in restoration mode, I went and bought a little red beauty to add to the stable!

Mine is today. I went golfing, because I'm a glutton for punishment!

Here’s a pic of one of the wiper blades I just got from ZCarDepot a few weeks ago. Not sure if the one laying above it is an original or not. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If this is what you are speaking of, from what I remember. Fast woman found one on ebay for a diesel, "sam the dieselman"

Actually it's tomorrow the 26th February, but I held it yesterday.

Not to play "Can You Top This", but 1972, Topeka Kansas, gas wars, 23¢ a gallon. When the gas stations weren't trying to put each other out of business by selling at rock bottom prices, the price would go back up to about 32¢ per gallon. Dennis

Loss of signal on the oil pressure switch. Your oil pressure sender has two posts. One goes to the oil pressure gauge. That one will have variable resistance. The other post is linked to a switch. When you have enough oil pressure, the switch closes and provides a path to ground. It's a way of killing the fuel pump if the engine stops running. A bad sender or low oil pressure in the engine could cause the pump to cut out.

I'm looking forward to following your progress on this. Will help out with info when I can...Enjoy!!

I used this stuff one the engine bay plate. I like this stuff a lot and use it on the rain gutter trim and similar items.

Actually it was the 2000 that had the timing chain problem. The 1600 motor is overhead valve and if I am not mistaken, the crank is geared to the cam 2:1. 5 speeds came on the 1967.5 and on 2000, never with the 1600. Also the 1967.5 2000 roadster is the Holy Grail of roadsters, very pricey.

Congrats! That is totally awesome. I have to be honest here, I actually like driving my 1600 Roadster more than any of my Z's. I think mostly because it is a convertible. The roadster are also pretty peppy and quite nimble, great cars. And, the women love them! Whenever I bring my roadster to a car show, the ladies are always checking out the roadster. Who cares about that original low serial number Z when that cute little roadster is right there. Oh, and that original gas cap is pretty pricey....keep and eye on that thing.

Shifting in to reverse is the clutch disengagement test. These transmissions don't have synchros on reverse.

Hey...that's my old dolly #304 is sitting on ? I remember buying the rusty thing from a body shop in Sylmar and painting it John Deere green/yellow. It's was rust prepped and painted using POR 15, so it should hold up well. It gives me much satisfaction it found a new home with a fellow Z enthusiast!

I went back to the top of the thread and saw you have a 78. Are you sure the new alternator is internally regulated? It should have been rated at 60A. If you got a 50A or 40A alternator, it probably doesn't have an internal voltage regulator. If that is the case, your voltage would read low since there is nothing to excite the field on the alternator. Page EE-20 describes how to test. Prior to testing, make sure the battery is fully charged and make sure you have a good ground on your alternator. Do a resistance test from the E terminal (ground) on the alternator to the negative battery post. It should only be about 1 ohm or less.

Parts stripped completely. Will be having two set of headlight buckets painted, one set will have the head light lenses, one set will not. The car had been in a front fender bender I’m guessing because one of the buckets is FRP and the other is metal.

Good news, I was able to get the bolt in. We're all set, thanks so much everyone!!

bending the knuckle and using the jack to get everything lined up worked perfectly, thanks for the tips! I ended up getting one bolt in but the other bolt's threads got knackered so I will have to put a bolt and nut in it's place but definitely better than nothing.

Hi everyone here's pictures of the tear down and the car being shipped off to Miguel's:

Here's some pictures of before tear down. Tear down pictures to follow.

Dunno if someone has already said this but i found a old TV movie called Death Car on the freeway and the main character drives a 240Z. You can watch the whole movie on Youtube. There is lot of old Japs in this film. Here is the final (7/7) part

Yeah man I saw them too! My wife thought I was going nuts because I pointed out every one I saw... pretty sure there were 5 seperate ones. I assumed they were Fairlady Z's as well

the 240z is basically a tin can on wheels compared to your pt cruiser. no power steering, rides and steers like an old truck. noisy on the highway, rattles on the street. you will find that until you drop the tail lights replace the seals, replace the lift gate seals ( on the lift itself and the body ) replace the seals around the side marker lights, that everytime you drive with the windows down, exhaust gas is gonna come in the cabin. the hoses for the charcoal cansister and gas fume recover system are most likely gonna need to be replaced. you will get wiffs of raw gas and wonder where it's coming from. as a pt cruiser driver, you are unfamilar with a choke and carbs along with a low voltage ignition system. on a cold morning, you can not hop in a 240z turn the key and expect to jump on it to get into traffic. it needs to be warmed up a bit, the choke set. the wipers and heater do not work as well as your pt cruiser. if you drive for any distance with the high beams on, most likely a fuse is gonna blow. there are often wiring issues under the dash and melted fuse boxes. for what ever reason the nissan engineers ( datsun ) decided to cheap out and ran all the car's electrics through the amp meter. they used a rivetted fuse holder. resistance at the fuse box causes the wiring to over heat. being as they were trying to keep the car light and cheap, little attention was paid to rust proofing. they also used a flap as a seal over the front of the area of the doors where they close under the fenders. when that flap dries out, water runs into the cabin. that water causes the floors to rust out. drain holes plug on the bottoms of the front fenders, they rust out below the 240z script. water and dirt get into the rocker panels below the doors, the rocker panels rust. some how water gets into the dog leg area of rear fenders directly behind the doors. rust there as well. where the lift gate meets the flat panel of the body where the latch is located, that flat panel rusts. datsun/nissan had a tray with a drain hose that went under the battery. most back yard mechanics tossed that tray and set the battery directly on the shelf. acid from battery ate holes in the shelf as well as the firewall below it ( sometimes even melted the wiring harness running on the frame rails ) speaking of frame rails, they are another place to look for rust. california cars are not exempt from these rust problems. they just take longer to show up here. brakes on the 240z are no where as good as the brakes on your pt cruiser. brakes on my 86 nissan pick up are better than the brakes on the 240z. headlights dim when you turn the heater fan on. if previous owners were door slammers , you may find the doors pop open as the metal latches on the body need to be replaced as well as the white plastic guides that line the doors up to the latches. car will wander if the bushings on the rack and pinion steering system are worn or loose. the wipers and blinkers won't work if the contacts in the switch stalks are worn out. most of the ignition locks are worn out and just about any 2 sided key will turn the lock, or the lock won't turn at all and the anti theft bolt won't move to release the steering. rear brake wheel cylinders are getting harder and harder to get and if someone hosed up the install, the rear brake shoes will drag on the drums. some times locking up the rear brakes. the heater valve is in a poor location, if the coolant isn't every couple years, acid builds up and eats through the valve, causing coolant to leak into the cabin. oh back to door slammers, the guide and the window regulator may get knocked off the rack and the plastic roller inside the door that braces the window may get bent or broken. door glass rolls up or down crooked or is difficult to roll up or down. in the front, below the windshield is a cowl cover plate with slotted vents. the factory had customer complaints of rattles. the fix was to put a cushion between the body and the cowl cover. another bad idea. cushions tend to stay wet, rust forms and bubbles up from the back side to the top under the paint. when fools don't change the coolant, crap tends to collect in the adapter for the lower radiator hose at the block. this limits the flow of coolant through the radiator. lots of over heating issues can be attributed to this. this often leads to seepage between the head gasket between the block and head near the number 6 cylinder. if things get worse, a blown head gasket, same location. other factors also contribute to blown head gaskets. most often is carbs set too lean combined with a heavy footed driver using low grade gas. what do you think ? sounds as if i don't care for the 240z ??? far from being correct. i have owned 5 of em. currently have two 1972 240z cars in my driveway, one is the famous "Bambi Killer". i love the 240z. i have busted my knuckles, shredded skin, cracked my head, burned myself working on 240z cars. my 19 yr old son has caught the bug from me. if i were to sell my 240z cars, i know i would buy another one. once they get under your skin, is just the way it is. but, i am no fool. i know what i am getting. know the ugly side hidden in the beauty of the 240z. you say you know nothing about cars. i want you to know what you are getting into if you buy a 240z. i don't want you biting off more than you can chew if you buy a lesser 240z. a cheap 240z is not a cheap 240z. it will need lots of repairs. i have tried to point out the most obvious problems. if you have limited skills and no money, the cheap 240z will break your heart. because no matter how much of a beater your 240z may be, you will fall in love with it. you will forgive it faults and dump tons of money into it to prove it. f you are looking for a car that is gonna leave a smile on your face everytime you drive it or just back it out the driveway and park it on the street, the 240z is the ticket for that . in the los angeles area, figure on spending around 5 grand for a decent driver. find a club member in your area that for the cost of a combo meal at jack in the box that will be willing to go with you to check out a 240z that you are interested in. don't get sucked in by shiny paint. shiny paint hides a lot of evil. remember every 240z is at least 35 yrs old. it will need maintenance. things that haven't been replaced by previous owners are on the edge of needing to be replaced. the little tang on the exterior door handle is just waiting to break off at the worst time and the door won't open. do you have a friend that is good with a wrench ?? a place to work on the z ? if you don't and don't have 5 grand for a decent 240z, i might be thinking of the 280zx, it is not the thrill a 240z will give you, but it is a more modern car. more what you'd be used to driving the pt crusier. and still has the basic lines of the 240z. you will spend less for a nicer 280zx than you will for a 240z. they all suck for gas mileage. especially a 280zx with an automatic. expect around 16 to 17 around town in 240z with 4 speed. around 22 to 24 at constant 65 mph. back in 81, my 79 280zx GS with 5 spd got 13 to 17 around town, 28 on the freeway. swap a 5 speed into the 240z and expect around the same mpg city and 24 to 26 or so on the freeway. i am in san jose, still see lots of 240z's used as daily drivers. i see on avg 3 to 4 a day being driven in commuter traffic. i am sure is the same in fullerton. check local craigslist, get a trusted car friend to go check it out with you ( or a club member ). take the list of faults i wrote above with you. tell you what, if you have at least the 5 grand. buy a 240z, drive it for the summer, see if you like it, if not your cup of tea ... has no power windows, no airconditioning, thin seats, suspension is tuned for the car guys of the early 70's late 60's. if it didn't add to performance it had no place on a car guy's car. federal safety standards and tightening emission standards began to tame the 240z. to increase sells datsun/nissan started building to non car guys. building for the gold chain wearing disco dancing crowd. progression, the 280z, the 280zx and the flattened 300zx. in 1990 they got it right again with the car guys by revamping the 300zx. although they look like a cross between a fiero and a saturn, get behind the wheel and you will know what i mean about it being a car guy's car. that said, none of the other z series cars have the heart and soul of a 240z. the 240z is the only true datsun/nissan z car. for your own soul, maybe buy a 240z, buy a nice one. drive it for the summer. if you find you miss all the good stuff that goes with a modern car and like the lines of the 240z, then sell the 240 and buy a 280zx. it still sort of looks like a 240z and is a modern car with creature comforts. again, don't buy a 240z beater fixer upper or one in need of small repairs ( no such thing ), it will break your heart. this may not be the advice you were looking for. but is as honest as i can be with you. my son's 1st daily driver was a 1990 300zx. he wanted a 240z. he wasn't ready for a 240z. right now he's in a '95 honda civic. he could not afford the gas for the 300zx and needed a back seat. he doesn't turn his own wrenches ( has the talent but not his thing ). unless i get in a financial bind, he will end up with The Bambi Killer. but right now, is not the right car for him. occasionally he drives the Bambi Killer and he smiles from ear to ear everytime. as much as he loves that car, he understands as a daily driver, he's better off in the civic. these are things you need to consider. no one can make up your mind for you. your money, spend it anyway you want. the 240z is a machine. an old machine. remember this and go in with eyes open, see all the faults, search for them and the don't let your emotions lead you into buying a junker just because it is a 240z. wayne