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I would consider the people with feet on the ground who were involved at the time as experts. In the case of the Z that would be Uemura, Katayama, Matsuo etc. Hence my question on definitive books. Writers like Long who have taken the time to travel in Japan and research the subject are also good references, they have also taken the time to do the work and write it down. If history is not recorded it is soon forgotten. Others like myself who have discovered the cars have them to thank for their efforts. I have no idea who Griffith Borgeson is, were they involved with the Z development as well? If you find the term "armchair expert" derogatory then my apologies. I have no way of knowing your qualifications or background other than what I have read on Z forums. Like yourself there are many people with opinions on the cars, but how do you know who really knows what is true or not. I find it simple to do lots of research and ask questions, which is what I am trying to do here. The same way I contacted you privately through the message board and asked questions. I had assumed you were knowledgeable about the race cars and Z432R and asked you some questions based on what I had researched. You chose not to answer as you didn't know me and wanted to know who or what I was doing. I explained that to you and then nothing. I contacted kats in Japan and he has been very helpful, he also mentioned you were very busy but the person to ask. I wrote to you to say I understood you were busy and I would continue my research in Japan. Unfortunately you did not even have the courtesy to respond to that either. Obviously you have quite a bit of background on the cars but don't wish to share it, that is your prerogative. I have ordered the Long book on the subject and will look up the other ones 26th-Z has suggested. If I have upset any others with my questions and earnestness my apologies, that was not my intention. Look forward to find out more history and background to these fascinating cars.

Ok, sorry again for the long delay between updates. I haven't had much time the past few weeks with Thanksgiving and some traveling for work. But good news, I took the Z on it's first drive since 06 yesterday! There was indeed one major vacuum leak in the braided, curved hose going from the anti-backfire valve to the manifold. I found a hose at Autozone that worked, although it was not metric, so it's a bit oversized and it wasn't quite the same curve, so it's running over the top of stuff instead of under. Will try to find a proper replacement later. I'm guessing some the other hoses are not completely air-tight at the connections. I did try to address that with some zip ties and hose clamps, but again, I just need new hoses. Will address that next spring. Yeah, I see where you're looking. It's actually just really thick parting line flash on that hose. I also continued to have problems getting it started, even with the new coiled. Turned out this was fuel. For some reason the new mechanical pump cannot pull anything from the tank without priming. Took me a while to figure this out, which was frustrating, but once it's primed, it runs pretty well. I stopped and started it several times and it fired right up once warm. I'm going to start it again tonight and see if that is still a problem. If so, I'll definitely be swapping in the electric pump first thing next spring. I never did the compression test again, will save that for spring as well. Getting up to temp definitely made things better. The idle wasn't great, so I have the idle screwed turned in one turn. I drove it around the block and then to the gas station to put some fuel in. Was so much fun to drive (even at only 35 mph), I'm sad that it's going right into storage. But really was fun to cruise around a little bit (even with the window down in 25 degree weather)

This just popped up on my news feed from Jalopnik https://jalopnik.com/what-a-lifelong-z-mechanic-thinks-of-nissan-today-1830083808 It's nice to see that places are still out there that specializes in Z's. No bad there's no place like that in NE Ohio. Great discussion of the history of sports cars at Nissan.

Sigmund Freud too.

It is a very strange world. Darwin would be puzzled for sure.

Hi guys. I hadn't come across your site before (my loss), the fine folks at Z Car Club of Washington suggested I post my car here. 1973 Datsun 240z in beautiful condition, ready to drive and cherish. You experts will have seen mods like this before. It's been fitted just a few months back with a 350ci Chevy crate V8 motor. Tidy install with T5 5-speed manual transmission, R200 differential, new clutch, flywheel, driveshaft, and aluminum radiator. Body recently repainted in its original silver, stock slim bumpers without overriders remain in place, and chrome bullet-style side mirrors added. Further alterations include 15x8" Rota wheels, lowering springs and new struts, 3-spoke Raid 1 steering wheel with Datsun horn button, fixed bucket seats with suede inserts. Goodyear Eagle tires dated 2015, plenty of tread. The passenger side taillight is cracked, though I have a replacement unit to swap. Also have chin spoiler for fitting if desired (I prefer without). Factory stereo and clock don't work (I just use a bluetooth speaker). Always garaged, no rust or other trouble to the best of my knowledge. I have the engine paperwork and clean title. Basically this is a gorgeous car that you could drive every day or keep for special occasions. I actually have not owned it very long, the only reason I'm selling is that my new house has a steep curb/driveway (both up and down) and I can't get this car in/out without dragging the exhaust, even with my curb bridge in place. I'm very sad about that, but it looks like it's time for a new owner to enjoy the car. I am happy to provide more photos/video or show the car to anyone interested here in Seattle. $19k OBO

I also made the seat covers and used a cnc punch for the holes. The protective covering is still on the clear plastic. a couple of pictures of before and after my seat restoration....

My body guy said it will be welded and is the same way that new Porsche's are put together. I told him I would love to get over there while he works with my good camera to catch some actual welding photos.

WARNING: ZOMBIE THREAD.. Any of you folks still out there? I got my Z last year off Bring a Trailer, still going thru it. Is there a Houston Z club? I can't find anything that's newer than about 4 years old. I'd like to get together sometime after the new year with some locals. On another note, is there any wrecking yards here that have old Z's?

I think I can manage on the pictures ? And now I am very interested about this as well and will have to ask some more questions. I hope to shoot over there while he is working too so I can capture some process photos this week. If this snow ever melts!!

Sorry got my numbers reversed. Ordered 18 gauge and got 20. I am using mig with gas. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Some weeks ago I decided to swap the old distributor with a 1-2-3 Ignition with Bluetooth, a relative simple operation (I have it on 2 other cars) an hour later I was ready to rumble, and nothing happened at all? Seek and you shall find? So I began, to search for any errors made during my install, checked the coil, spark plugs, replaced the old resistor, replaced the spark plug wiring, re-timed it etc.. what ever I did, i was no nearer to solve the problem? The engine cranked, but no spark? checked resistance in the coil, distributor cap, cables and so on, every things seemed to be in good order...? It was a mystery? everything worked flawless before the swap? seeking the internet, gave me several different answers, but no ideal solution on the subject, so I went back to square one, replaced the 1-2-3 with the old distributor, timed it once again, checked everything was hooked up as it should, even replaced the battery with a new one (fully charged) and even the starter motor, with a high-torque from Wosp. Cranked it.... no spark?!? The frustration began to show and I was running out of ideas as fast as I spend money on parts that could corse the trouble! A month ago, I was replacing the gear lever rubber boot, and I had taken the console and the fuse-box out, to have more room to work on, I had put everything back together, making sure that everything was reconnected the right way! Just to be sure, I decided to take a second look, and took it apart once more. The fuse box and the fuses seemed ok, I measured everything with a voltmeter and the Ohms where flowing as it should, I checked the wiring for the radio, fuel pump, rear heated window all lights green... I found the lead cable WR that goes on the backside of the fuse box, in good working order, and attached as it should, I followed this wire, as it splits and the other goes to a single pin connecter all the way back in the harness near the radio. For the first time, I could see some kind of evidence that could lead to a positive solution on my starting issue, the wire was, hard as stone, the insulation was cracked and the copper was visible? In my mind this could have caused a short cut as there are plenty of steel the wire could rub against or the current to jump, and the power will not get to the ignition switch? I´ve checked the WR from where I found the bare copper till the back of the 6 pin connector back at the switch, the wire is flexible and the voltmeter shows that current are flowing, so I´m positive that I found the problem? So, this evening I found the right connectors etc. on vintageconnections.com and now I just have to wait for it to arrive, and I can finally ( I bloody hope) start it up..?

Well don't get me wrong. I'm not questioning any of the decisions about the planned process and it sounds very interesting. I just don't understand it completely. Pics of the process would be cool. (Not that you like to take pics of the work in process or anything! )

My apologies if we covered this somewhere else, but I don't like to hang the car with all the suspension on it. It nearly doubles the weight of the car and adds a lot more stress on the attachment points. My 2 cents

Hey Guys, haven't posted in awhile...not much to tell. Mostly I have been practicing welding. My sheet metal is very thin - 16-18 gauge. I ordered 20 gauge but they gave me this crap. Definitely not 20. I will make sure I get the correct one when I do the actual work. I am feeling better about my spot welds! As you can see I have been experimenting. First day there were a lot of burn-through. Rookie! Mostly I have been playing around to get the feel of the welder and see how the metal reacts. Looking to weld my first patch next week.

Ahhh no thanks but you are welcome to take a selfie with him, Justin loves selfies.

I don't know Carl personally but if he sits at a chair that has armrests and writes about Z cars then yes that would make him an "armchair expert". From what I can see reading posts on this forum and his site zhome.com he is very passionate about the cars. He has spent many hours researching them and presenting the information for people to freely read and share. I'm thankful people like Carl are around and freely share their knowledge. I also appreciate people answering my questions here, you are all a lot more knowledgeable about the subject than I am.

Please, no politics. There's enough anger out there already. Z cars , etc., please. Cheers, Mike

Trump does not look so bad in the right light. Here is our leader: The queen of carbon tax: