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My Sahara Gold 1971, which I was rebuilding the entire undercarriage, upgrade the motor with a mild race cam, a set of triple Mikuni´s and a Z-Story Exhaust system etc. are finally ready for some indian summer rides.. All in all, it has been a blast, working on this project and the numbers of trial and error are to a minimum. as for all work, there will be some small adjustments, and I think I´m through them all, at this moment. The last small things was done this afternoon in my workshop, and was attended the front and rear number rubber, as I took the bumbers of, I decided to delete the horns at the front, and before putting the new rubber corners on, I cleaned and polished the chrome work.. Now, all I need is to get the number plates some times next week, and drive it, just in time before winter.....

Also, I don't believe you ever mentioned the year of the car, but I'm guessing 73 or 74 and it appears to have had a flat-top to round-top modification. And with that in mind, your throttle linkage between the two round top carbs is not correct and does not fit right. It's too short. Note how the ball is almost completely slipping out of the rear carb linkage in your pic. That's because the linkage between the two carbs is too short.

what's the big rush in removing the CAI it isnt being supported by just the carbs. but because the car had a 14 Inch magnaflow that was soooo loud you couldnt hear anything we just welded in a glass pack I had laying around to act as a resonator. I took the valve cover vent off and plugged the hole on the balance tube. added 20w oil to the carbs. holy $^!# the turd runs decent. waaaaay better. now when I hit 4000+ rpm i hear a noise which i think is the water pump from searching the forum.

Yes, for you electrical guru's. I know just enough to get myself in trouble. I would say it is the original alternator. There would be no reason to go backwards. Yes (in it)

Yes. The alternator works the same on the L28ET.

Ok np. Just want to make sure your happy. ?

The stock 280 bar is too long to fit behind the diff (AZC moustache bar mount) and must be mounted from the front. Therefore, one that was a rear mount will be too short to mount on the 280 from the front. However, the ST sway should bolt up behind the diff of a 280 with a mounting kit no problem.

I believe I got it on eBay. As far as the fibre board, I used my old ones. I straightened them and reinforced them with fiberglass... Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I figured out what's the deal with the damper stalks. The "normal looking" one is from your typical 240 round top carb. The other "top hat shaped" one (with the protuberance) is from a 73or 74 flat top carb that your PO has "repurposed" to use in one of your round tops. Problem with this plan however, is the damper stalks or the flat top carbs are longer than the ones for the round tops and will bottom out if you try to do this. So your PO punched the damper rod out the top of the cap to shorten the effective length and be able to use it on the round top carb. Then it appears he applied epoxy to attempt to seal the rod and lock it in place. So, the cap has been punched through, but what I said before about it happening accidently was incorrect. It appears to be an INTENTIONAL misuse. Mother of invention and all that... Also explains the different fill level markings.

Thanks so much for your clarification

You were Sunday Lunch punch drunk.

update, got it to under .5 ohms per inch with the 3rd coat. Will let it cure overnite for some durability testing. I keep getting better at the application (practice makes better). The plan is to pull the hatch off, leave the glass in, set it upside down and do them all over a weekend. While I have it out I will finally get to install the outer hatch weather strip.

Just came back from the 14th 2018 JCCS at Long Beach Ca. It was a 500 cars show....WHAT a turn out.Won 2nd Place in Skylines.The 1st was a Hako.

Yep was there and WHAT a turn out. Showed my Kenmeri and got the 2nd place in Skylines......

Well it took longer than planned but it's working, copied @mikev88 method but found I needed a nut on the top of the on/off stud to keep the swivel from flying off, an M5x.8 die works perfectly. The Duplicolor Pontiac Blue DE1610 really is a very close match to the stock colour, so thanks @siteunseen

WooHoo, I picked up my bucket of treasure from the platers today, very happy with what he did. Now I have to sort it out and try and get all the bolts back in the right baggie. CO, the worst exhaust is the last pic, not really bad at all.

Good call, I will do them all but really there are only 3 exhaust valve seats that could use some dressing. These are 2 random valves, hard to believe they have 106,000 miles. This engine is such a cream puff, the timing chain hasn't even stretched, with #1 on TDC I think that is showing a bit of cam advance and the sprocket is still at the first setting. The chain guides hardly have any wear, I don't think the PO's ever put their foot into it much.

Nice job! Your ash tray looks great, is that a paint you used or a natural finish?