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My set up is one I bought at a garage sale years ago, 3ft Acetylene tank, 3 1/2Ft Oxygen tank. Considering all I use it for is burning out rubber bushing and heating stubborn bolts they should last forever. Tore down the rest of the engine today, valve seats and guides are in good shape and so are the conrod and main bearings, only have to clean things up paint the block and reassemble

It is a 1985 Toyota "Pickup"

I’m in the processing of building out a mirror website for datsunzgarage, a lot of information on that site. I have the engine page up, https://specterbyte.com/datsunzgarage/engine.html Should be a couple days, I think I found a way to get the rest of the site up.

Your welcom.. here some more details of a very nice restored car. 260z from 1979. This car was restored by a NISSAN dealer and he has stopt with working but still has this car and a fairlady cabriolet.

First pic is the 2 broken bolts I knew about, second pic is another one I discovered when I removed the timing cover, last pic is just letting the block cool down before removing the broken head bolts. I pulled out the Oxy Acetylene torch and got them all cherry red, they all came out easily after that.

I still need to check on the front calipers and the front rotors In the mean time I have been trying to get the rest of the suspension black so I can put it back down on some wheels I painted the last control arm today and polished some spindle pins. I have found many times they will polish up nicely. I use lots of anti seize on reassembly

Car is back up and running. No noise. ?

9/76 is before 1979.

PB Blaster, Vise grips, taps from a dead blow hammer and small propane torch worked for me on the head bolts. It's worth a try but if you're going to take the block in for boring or decking, then I would share the fun and let them do it. They have proper equipment and it's no big deal for them.

I know you're stressing trying to sale but what jumps out to me is you calling it a '75 260. 1974 was the only year the 260 was made. I sold mine on CL. Lot of nuts but also honest people looking for wa Z. Good luck with your selling attempt, it's a nice looking car. Are you flipping it or is it your's for awhile? My guess, $8,000.

I’m really loving this setup and colour combo. The fluorescent lights cast the green a little more yellow than it is, but ... wow!

Hi Zd, It is yours. Just send me a personal message with a reasonable offer and shipping details and I will get shipping costs from Canada post. btw I was just in Lisbon and Porto a few months ago.

Dad gum unforeseen circumstances SUCK! I may get rid of my '77 for the same reasons. Good luck with your sale!

The fuel pump should always run through a high amperage ( 40 amp ) continuous duty relay. The relay itself shouldn't pull much amperage. A 10 to 20 amp switch should be fine wired through the relay. 5 amps fuse is enough on the switch side. A 25 amp fuse should be good enough on the fuel pump side.... for the stock fuel pump Here is an article testing various aftermarket Hi Performance fuel pumps. Amperage draws are included. Note amperage draw was tested at 13.2 volts. If voltage at fuel pump is less than this figure, amperage draw goes up. Make sure the fuel pump supply wire is of adequate size ( 12 gauge minimum ). Most factory wiring is not large enough for aftermarket pumps. Note that the Walpro 255 was not tested. It tends to draw more amps than other models, so plan accordingly. Edit: Forgot to include the link to the article. http://realstreetperformance.com/Fuel-Pump-Comparison-Test.html

That's probably as close as you'll get. It's actually a Nissan design, for the 280ZX, 810 and 200SX. Click on the FPD26 number in the description here - https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?catalog=154&partnum=FPD26&a=www.google.com%2BSearch%2Bfor%2BSTANDARD%2BMOTOR%2BPRODUCTS%2BFPD26&blanktemplate=true Cheaper too.