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Update of my blue 240Z , I replaced an water pump, it went bad after a few months I reported here last time when I installed the metal fan . Anyway this previous pump was old enough to be going wrong. Also a thermostat, a radiator cap , and installed a fan shroud . Kats

Prince and Nissan R380s at Nissan Yokohama HQ gallery . They are restored recently, Safari motors is supporting this activity. Kats

Hi everyone, today I show this , early bumpers. The earliest bumpers are unique, for example, the front bumper has only one stud bolt per each side. And the associated brackets are very thin . These are the same for all the early S30 series cars. But I do not know when it bacame to two bolts per side. Once I was told by a 1970 Z432 -R owner , he told me that he thought his car has very thin bumper brackets because of his car is Z432-R . And the rear bumper, it does not have a recess near the side mount bracket for each side. This is true for at least up to 1973 model , including Fairlady 240ZG which has gun grey painted bumper. Some of you noticed already, my Z432 has later ones. They are genuine stock bumpers from Nissan , but they all were purchased around 2005-2007 . We all were happy that Nissan still providing these old parts , but we were little bit unhappy about its quality about chrome. The finsh of surface was not so good . You can tell from the pictures , about front and rear bumper’s imperfection. The original old bumpers has much better chrome I think . Today I show my re-chromed early bumpers , one bolt version on a front and non recess version on a back . Safari Motors ( remember ? They are taking care of Nissan’s historic racing cars ) did a wonderful job for it , but expensive!! Kats

Car meet, lots of people and cars.

Yes, the AAR is actuated by temperature alone. Some of that temperature is internally generated with an electrical heating coil, and some of that temperature is externally applied by the coolant running through the heating plate under the AAR, but yes... temperature alone. The colder it is out, the longer it takes to warm up. No computer control, but it works. And as Blue mentioned above, the "normal - once warmed up" idle air comes through a passage built into the throttle body. It's the large headed spring loaded screw on the throttle body. You can see it in the very very bottom left of this pic:

Other than tube diameter (50mm vs 55mm) they are the same enough length and spring perch wise. If you want a 240 strut in decent shape instead, let me know. Calgary isn't too far away. Z240@shaw.ca

Engine gets normal air from a small passage in the Throttle Body that bypasses the Throttle Plate. A small needle screw controls this amount of idle air. The AAR just gives extra air when it is cold to give a faster idle. Circa 2003: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/aar/index.html Additional heating of AAR with water helps ensure it does not open when doing short stop and go's on cool to cold days. AAR is only needed when the engine is cold; so water temp is a good indicator,

Hi , this is not related “ build date “ but I found this wooden grip reversible driver is bare wood , I mean not covered by clear lacquer. This is found in a May 1972 tool bag for Nissan Blue Bird ( 510 ) . Dec 1969 Z432 has a lacquercoat wooden grip , so there would be a difference between them , early has lacquercoat , later does not . Kats

And here's a pic that may help both you and Jim. I never finalized the hose connections,, but I did test fit the Escort core with the original temp valve and vacuum shut-off. The one connection (right side in this pic) should be easy. The other end is more of a problem though. But this pic should help you on your way:

On the cars without factory air, that vacuum valve is not present. In fact none of the vacuum valves are present at all. The non-A/C cars (like my 77) have all manual cable controls and do not use vacuum at all. And although you didn't ask, that rarely ever stops me... Yes, the reason they put that vacuum shut off valve in place is to shut off all the water flow to the core whenever the A/C is on, but it's a little more complicated than that... The temperature control slider lever not only controls the temp for the heater, but it also controls the temp for the A/C by cycling the compressor. So if you want to be able to use that same control lever for both functions, you have to cut off the water when the A/C is on. Unfortunately the desired temperature ranges for the two functions are so wildly different that they couldn't use the same simple slider to do both controls without completely disabling the function that wasn't being used. Did I say that right? Does that even make sense?

Mike, Full disclosure, I did not actually install that version in a car, but I did place the blower assembly and connecting duct into place to verify that there was no interference. So, while I cannot guarantee with absolute certainty that I did not overlook something, I have a very high degree of confidence that it fits fine. Here's some pics of that version with the blower and duct in place. Top view: View from the firewall looking backwards: View from the interior looking towards the engine:

Not sure who ‘you guys ‘ are, but simplifying one BIG part of this project would go a long way to shortening the list ??. It would be a plug and play as most people picture it, but it would a perfect fit for someone who has an empty engine compartment when it comes to wiring . I spent a lot of time searching to wire just the power of the ecu and fuel pumps, etc.. so they worked together properly . This is all done for you and it mounts in the stock place. Yes it’s a shortcut , but this list is so long and the builder will still have to have the knowledge to pull it off

Hi, I’m the “gentleman” (Rich may be a little too generous ?) that is the original owner of the ‘73 Z of this thread. I’m happy I managed to hang on to my Z this long and yet ashamed I have let it sit so long. I bought it new from Gubrud Valley Datsun in Mt Vernon Washington shortly after returning from an 11 month deployment with my US Navy A6 Intruder squadron aboard the USS Kitty Hawk. ( which was a great way for a young ensign to save his pay to buy a Z!). I’ll post more info about the history of this car when I get back home after the 4th.

I have uploaded the 3D model of the indicator arm knob and instructions to thingiverse https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2984466 Please note, this will only work for the JDM version cars the indicators are wired differently and includes a relay to power the lights.

An update. The end of the indicator was missing the knob and the push to flash switch. I 3d modeled and printed a replacement complete with momentary switch for the lights. All wired up, relay and lights working well.