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I hear you... facebook sucks. It is unsearchable, content not accessible from the real world and all the data fades into an endless scroll. Facebook is like living in a gated community. It is fueled by the general public's insanity of photographing themselves and their food.

@Lumens Courtney Cutchen (from the Hagerty article above) is a member on this forum. She and I exchanged several PM regarding her need for carb linkage parts for her Z a year or so ago. Nice article, and yes she is a real nice lady with a passion for Z cars. Dustin is a lucky fellow indeed.

Coil. 12 volts to the plugs won't even make a spark. And with current flowing it won't be 12 volts. Just saying... I think he already realized his error though. Slow day.

Yes I should know this. I forget. I have a MSD. Thanks.

Personally, I prefer the permatex adhesive shown below. I do not like the 3M adhesive. The permatex is much stronger and sets up faster. 3M took way too long to set and never really held that well when hardened.

https://bobh.photoshelter.com/gallery-image/IMSA/G0000oB2DZFSLCEo/I0000g_YZ2._shWc https://bobh.photoshelter.com/gallery/IMSA/G0000oB2DZFSLCEo/0

Here's a summary with some reloaded pics. Heater core for a 91-02 Ford Escort SOHC (not the ZX2). The heater core is aluminum, and the one I got was Spectra Premium P/N 94741. I decided on the Escort core because it was the thinnest, smallest, most generic, cheap core that I could find with tubes that stuck straight out on the same side. No long funky bent tubes. No weird mounting flanges. Generic, small, thin, and cheap because it's from a ubiquitous car and not from a low volume hard to find Ferrari. Here's a pic of the Escort core next to the original 280 core: Escort core with a layer of foam around the outside for a snug fit inside the air box: Build a little shelf for the Escort core to sit on. Since the Escort core is a little thinner, it allowed me to move the core up a little so it doesn't interfere with the floor duct control linkages at the bottom of the heater box (like the stock one does). Aluminum angle material screwed into place as a lower support shelf: Escort core in place before putting on the access panel cover. Can't see it in the pic, but it's resting on the new aluminum shelf on the far side: Cut some new holes in the access cover for the inlet and outlet tubes and put the cover in place. Tape over the original holes so air doesn't come out where it's not supposed to. I put a support shelf on the back side of the cover for that end of the core as well, but after doing that, I'm not sure it's really necessary. If I were doing it again, I would probably skip that second shelf and just use the inlet and outlet tubes poking through the cover as the supports on that end. But if you look carefully, you can see the heads of screws that hold the shelf in place: When I get a couple more minutes, I'll post some pics on how to make water connection to the core.

Its not your distributor weights or anything else inside causing your #4 problem. Maybe a bad plug wire but I think that cylinder will need another compression test. You are now running on 5 cylinders with the looks of that plug.

@jalexquijano DON"T TAKE THE DISTRIBUTOR OUT. Don't oil anything. For now, Just replace the distributor cap, rotor and #4 plug. I still want to know if any other plugs were sooty. If you used too much choke or left it on too long the the last time you warmed it up, it's likely that all the plugs look like #4. #1 Don't fix what ain't broke. #2 Check the other plugs. #3 Replace the Dist. cap, rotor and #4 if it's the only one that 's black. #4 Be sure that all the wires are fully inserted into the cap. #5 Drive it and report back.

My Mom fell in love with my Dad's car then married him, had me and divorced when I was 3. So I'd have to go with worse for my situation.

Looks like a killer Steve Parmley type autocross car!

Well at least Im not the only one that does that kind of thing. A couple of weeks back I was cleaning my ballast resistor and it looked like new for about 20seconds until I dropped it and it shattered.What are the rollers and impeller like? This one seems worn when I compare it to the phots on Alanticz and from memory of my in car unit. I would like to keep the original style. Thats why Im tinkering with this one. It works, but it sounds awfull and it doesn't pump as much as the one on the car now. Site, Thanks, I have read just about every page on Blues Atlanicz site. Its an ecellent source of info. The tech tip on these pumps is more external and replaceable things like o-rings. My problems with this pump is its worn out. Really no other word for it. Thats why I thought Id play with it a little, if I stuff it up no loss and I can always go aftermarket with the Bosch pump.They use them here a lot on the old BMW, VW, Alfa and porches etc with the bosch J jetronic systems. Bosch still make them in the Cheq republic I think. The maximum pressure is a little higher than the original, but that is controlled by the FPR. Google this part number 0580254984 and you will find them easy enough. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bosch-0580254984-POMPA-CARBURANTE-ORIGINALE-Volvo-240-turbo-Porche-911-/371382769888?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_101&hash=item56782358e0&vxp=mtr http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CO2LI2/ref=as_sl_pd_tf_lc?tag=boschfuelpumps-20&camp=213381&creative=390973&linkCode=as4&creativeASIN=B001CO2LI2&adid=18GFZW2S9TJX21X6FHXH&&ref-refURL=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.boschfuelpumps.com%2F

im just going to say “ouch!” Right up front on this one!