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Well you need a breather of some kind whether it vents to the airbox or not, but the thread siteunseen just posted will answer a lot of your questions.

Permatex high temp anaerobic flange sealant. This stuff is made for those apps Blue.

Thanks Cliff! I just sent you a PM @Fame707.

I used the same stuff sold for diff sealant. Oil resistant. did not use any on the main seal but I did grease it up (like the OE seal has pre applied grease on the lip where it comes into contact with the crankshaft). I followed the FSM on the rear side seals for where to apply around the bearing block, and assembled quickly per the "how to rebuild L series engine" book. The quick assy was suggested to prevent the sealant from setting up. I used the aftermarket side seals with the separate pins that force the seals against the block. more sealant again where FSM suggest. So far not a hint of oil.

The internet is dead. Communications used to be private. You picked up a phone and talked to someone at the far end in confidence. Now the govt, military, police, advertisers, retailers, data brokers, scammers, hackers, et al are now analyzing every word you type.

fsm is not for cartridges. That oil was for actual damping. I just replaced the oil and put new o rings since all the internal parts were intact. the original design was rebuildable.

Maybe just order the front rails from Zedd Findings in Ontario and repair the rest of the sheet metal like I did on my 280.

Seriously though, it looks a lot better now. I know the gunk on the outside doesn't affect operation, but I hate messy parts like that. Nice work.

www.iprcenter.gov might be a good place to start for anyone ripped off. Dennis

I thought the doctor said that cleared up?

I think thats the problem. I ordered one of each side but the drivers is left hand thread. So I just ordered another passenger side. Let’s see. 12/70 2.6 block E88 heads Mallory DCOE40 3/2 Twice pipes Tokico 1, 3/4 in sways, ext oil cooler

@Bruce Palmer @240260280 @jalexquijano and all others who are interested. Hopefully we can get to the bottom of this. My experience with SU's for a few decades was with 4 screw carbs. When I set my floats using the 9/16" method, the fuel level turned out to be a bit below the nozzles at 2 1/2 turns, although checking the fuel height in the nozzles was more out of curiosity back then. Decades later, someone quoted Bruce saying the fuel level in the nozzles was supposed to be slightly below the nozzle top at 2 1/2 turns. I had no problem whatsoever over the years with my SU's and that confirmed my findings from years ago. I was convinced that the 1/16" at 2 1/2 turns was correct. I'm still pretty sure that's correct but I'd like to erase the little bit of doubt I have. I don't give a damn if I'm right. The import thing is to figure this out so we all understand it.

OK, forest fires. Dennis

Fantastic photos Kats! Detective work is fun. This is a nice one too... I think the plate was picked from their stock of plates on purpose. LHD 240z Promotion Photo (driving in Japan)

JDMjunkies , thank you for sharing very interesting materials, let me see , I am having fun to read all of them . Blue, more home work about temporary license plate, I have heard red rectangular plate is for car company, they can use it to any cars in their car. While private drivers can have one temporary plate for one car.In that case , a Red diagonal line on the plate. I will show some from some magazines in Japan. Mr. K loved silver , was it reason for two test cars in the US were silver? Design team brought a silver full scale model to a final presentation to the Nissan executives . Kats

Here's an old article. People have wondered about this for a while - https://books.google.com/books?id=CRDEneSREucC&pg=PA144&lpg=PA144&dq=smooth+tappet+surface&source=bl&ots=7Hum0yt51O&sig=DgXG_t_DAzbCNCNPCEvDyp7C-x0&hl=en&sa=X&ei=-AIzVd2fAoO3oQTo2IGwCA&ved=0CCQQ6AEwAQ#v=onepage&q=smooth%20tappet%20surface&f=false

I use the Permatex High Tack spray-on sealer. It's not as messy as the brown stuff and comes off without too much work the next time you have the cover off. I tend to have my race motor apart fairly often, so I don't want to spend a lot of time cleaning the surfaces. The red spray stuff comes clean with a razor blade and scotch brite. I've been using it on front covers for 25 years and have never had a leak. I think the can I use has lasted about 10 years and has done 10+ Z motors. Simply lay the gaskets on cardboard and spray them with a light coating of the sticky red sealant. After a few minutes, turn them over and repeat. Give them another few minutes to dry a bit and install. http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_sealants/auto_Permatex_High_Tack_Spray-A-Gasket_Sealant.htm