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BTDT. Grew back. Thankfully. Actually, the last time I hit a tree was the first time I ever rode a four-runner. I'd been riding cycles for years, but had never been on a four wheeler before. I was going five miles an hour just to get the feel of the thing. Came time to make a turn and I was leaning just as hard as I could, but the damn thing just wouldn't turn! No matter how far I leaned!! Ran into a row of ornamental trees in slow motion. Only things that got hurt that day were my pride and reputation. And yes, I've figured it out now... I just have to turn off the cycle reflexes and turn on the four wheel reflexes.

@siteunseen - No worries. I was able to locate 1 horn. I am in the process of cleaning it up as it was quite rusty. Still not sure if it is H or L or what I have. It will work itself out in the end.

I worked in a sour gas plant and there was a story that back in the 80's when it was Gulf they make keepsakes to hand out to the kids during school tour, by pouring molten sulphur into small blocks with the Gulf logo on them. All the kids would take them home and they ended up on top of the family TV or in a china cabinet. Well needless to say the following year Gulf was going around replacing TV's and paying someone to polish all the tarnished silver.

This is not the site for you then, by a long shot. Try www.zcar.com you'll get more response.

Skip to the 2 minute mark, funny.

Come on up this spring and take it for a spin! I’ve got some of the best driving roads in the world in my backyard Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Don't feel bad. My two-year project is now entering Year 5. And even with a relatively careful job of photographing the disassembly and bagging-and-tagging the parts, I still occasionally find myself wondering, 'Where did I put the #$!&* part?' or, 'How the heck does this fit?'.

Is it an automatic transmission? With a manual you can just push the clutch pedal. Engine RPM is controlled mainly by air allowed in to the intake manifold. You might have some kind of intake system leak. Automatics have some vacuum actuated mechanisms, that can cause problems.

Officially now up for sale is my prized possession, my 1975 Datsun 280Z. This hurts me to write this ad but it's something I must do. I don't drive the car as much as I thought I would, and I am currently starting a new business so financially it makes sense. Before posting it up to Ebay, I figured I would list it here first since this forum has been a huge help with the build. I originally bought the car in August of 2013 and immediately began the restoration process. It was completely stripped down to the chassis, media blasted, rusted areas were removed, and replaced with new metal. The car was then sent to Emmel's Enamels in Denver where it received the full rotisserie treatment. Original Datsun color #904 base coat/clear coat was applied. Countless hours of wet sanding and polishing were done to create a beautiful gloss. All suspension, steering, and undercarriage components were blasted and powder coated semi-gloss black. Every nut, bolt, or hardware that was originally plated was sent out and stripped, and re-plated a beautiful yellow zinc. All rubber was either rejuvenated or replaced with new. Body: 240Z front valance, bumper, grille, and marker lights. 240Z rear bumper. New windshield. BRE rear spoiler. Paint protection film installed on full hood, fenders, and lower valance. Motor: Rebello Racing 3.0 liter stroker. L28 with N42 head. 89mm Cast Pistons. L24 rods with ARP bolts. Turbo oil pump. 63DI 109 Hot B Cam. Triple 45 DCOE Weber Carbs w/ K&N filters. Port and polished head. Port matched intake. 11:1 compression. Engine dyno'd at 301 hp/269 tq Wrinkle red powder coated valve cover. Datsun Spirit MSD plug wires. Datsun Spirit heat shield. MSD 6a Ignition. MSD booster 5 Speed transmission from 81' 280ZX Suspension: BC coilovers with adjustable height, dampening, and camber. Energy Suspension performance polyurethane bushings Wheels/Tires: 15X8 Rota RKR in Black magnesium painted black metallic. Dunlop Direzza 205/55R15 tires. Brakes: Silvermine stage 3 disc brakes. fully rebuilt rear brakes with all new drums and pads. Stainless steel brake lines. New brake booster and master cylinder. Interior: 240Z refurbished steering wheel. Refurbished dash (dash cover currently on). All new bulbs in dash. New carpet, seats, console, headliner and vinyl trim. Retrosound AM/FM/USB/bluetooth stereo with (4) Polk Audio 5.25 speakers. Misc. New battery, new alternator, new starter, new clutch master cylinder, Custom 3" stainless steel exhaust with Dynaflow muffler, Fuel lab regulator, new fuel pump, Skillard fuel tank straps, aluminum 3 core radiator, all new hoses and clamps. Also have original window sticker. I am sure there are a ton of things that I have forgot to mention but this car is in immaculate condition and is basically a brand new car. I have only put approximately 1800 miles on the new motor. This car is an absolute blast to drive and has no shortage of power. Cons: There are some minor flaws here and there, a couple small knicks in the paint. The chrome taillight bezels could probably be re-plated but aren't that bad. The clock and amp gauge are not working. Also missing a spare tire, but have jack and tools. This isn't a concourse restoration but definitely a 9.5 out of 10. Located near Denver, CO. Price is $25000. I am pretty firm on the price, I believe it is a very fair price for the amount of money and quality of work that has gone into this build. I will not accept lowball offers. If you are interested please reply to this thread or text/call me directly at 303-999-7109. Please don't hesitate to ask any questions. Also if there are any specific pictures you want just let me know. Thanks for looking! -Matt Please check out my build thread here for detailed pictures and complete write up. Thank you.

Congratulations!

The butterfly flaps are only just a little open probably like 95%, the linkage seems to be fine, I will try pinching the hose tomorrow to see if that keeps rpms lower.

I have had a cotton cover next to the paint for at least 7 years and keep another cover on top of that one. Today I replaced the top cover made of tyvek with a covercraft guaranteed 5 years to protect the cotton cover. The car has always been in a garage or carport. Put new seat covers on today though they are a bit on the large side. Warmer than normal temperatures here. Very nice in the 70s.

Ok, I give up. A guy can only take so much. I've heard everything from "too many changes, what if something goes wrong" to "there is too much undercoating and sound deadening, so I can't tell what rust might be hiding" and everything in between. So, I'm keeping it. None of you get to experience its greatness. In fact I'm going to drive my overly complicated, too modified rust bucket like I've never driven it before on this last nice day of Fall. I may even get some winter tires and alternate between the 510 and the Z all damn winter. Because I can. Bitter? yeah, slightly. I'll get over it.

Yeah, Photobucket SUCKS!! I reloaded the pics at the (current) end of the thread. Take a look at page 4. http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/48621-steering-rack-disassembly-and-refurb/?page=4&tab=comments#comment-531913

There's a drawing in the FSM.

I think Gav240Z's recommendations are on the money. The minute you start personalizing/customizing/improving a car, it looses its appeal for collectors and you limit the potential-buyers pool to very small group of individuals -- people with exactly the same taste as you, but who lack the skill, time/patience, or facilities to do the work themselves. They have to trust your workmanship, too, or else they'll be looking for a bargain on the price to help compensate for the uncertainties. Buyers with deep pockets are looking for originality -- preferably non-restored originality, right down to original paint and interior. For proof, look no further than the 260Z that just brought $46K on BAT. While most of us on this site consider the 260Z to be the red-headed stepchild of the Z family, the collector who paid big bucks for the car clearly had different motivations. More BAT examples: A very clean and original 240Z located in Montreal recently attracted $33K, IIRC. It probably would have brought even more had it: 1) not been located outside the USA; 2) not been Ziebart rust-proofed (although it seems to be one of the few examples of a Ziebart job that actually worked), and; 3) not had the engine compartment re-sprayed. A couple of years ago, a bone-stock 72 240Z (located in Toronto) with an undesirable red-over-white color combo (but original paint) and an auto trans also brought over $30K. This one, too, was probably hurt by being offered by a seller located outside the USA

This might be of help to you;

Car is sold! Thank you everyone here that has helped along the way! Off to her new owner.