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Fired right up.....everything works perfect! The Excedy 240mm comp clutch is awesome.....put 20 miles on her, but it's raining, so It'll have to wait!

Finally got some time this evening after work, doing dishes, and mowing the lawn to work on the passenger door. I am trying out the KBS products (rust seal/preventative). Earlier I had removed the door skin. Tonight I applied their Rust Blast (etching and a zinc coating). This evening I sprayed their Rust seal urethane paint. Debating whether I will either use Lizzard skin or mats yet. Plan to do that before reassembling the door. Hope to get the door reassembled this weekend, maybe. Sent from my SM-G930V using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Hello all, I'm new to the forum and also to the Z life. I have already looked around quite a few times and this forum was always very helpful. I was always fond of the S30's and earlier this year I finally found a 76' 280Z that I could afford (and that my wife would let me buy). I don't have a lot of mechanics notions, but the idea was also to learn as much as possible from this project, as it has relatively simple mechanics. So I have already started tinkering with it and repairing some stuff to get it on the road. This car has a L28 with twin carburetors, weird, because every time I see something about the 280Z it is injection, but the car does have signs of the engine having been removed or replaced at some point. Many things are disconnected, although the main stuff for the car to run is working. My plan with this car is to get it running reliably to take it out on the road and enjoy it. I'm not necessarily looking to restore it completely just yet or doing it all original. Partly because of time and mostly because my wife won't let me spend a lot of money. So my priority with time is to give it a new suspension and alter on a new paintjob and in between trying to get the little things done step by step. Now I had gotten to a point where the car was actually running pretty smoothly, but 2 months ago I started experiencing some trouble. The engine started hesitating when on the road, and after a lot of trouble shooting and you tube videos and carburetor twitching I am pretty sure my problem is that there must be rust in the tank and the rust is clogging the fuel line and not allowing the fuel to get to the engine. So my next step is going to be to remove the tank and clean it and hope that solves my issue. My problem is that I live at an apartment complex in Midtown Atlanta and, although I can work on the car, I don't have the space or possibilities to do anything major or leaving the car unable to run for a few days. That is why I only trust myself doing some minor repairs, as I don't have much experience yet. So if there is anyone in the area that likes to lend a hand I will be happy to accept it and provide the beer.

I would really like to believe that there is no reason for story fabrication but that just isn't the way it is. From "driven only on Sundays" to "previously owned by (insert famous person's name)", I would like to think I have heard it all. For that matter, my car was the first S30 in the State of Florida. Just ask the brother of the previous owner's son. Perhaps it was raced in Japan. I have heard many stories about servicemen racing their newly purchased sports cars in amateur events. Generally speaking, that's the sort of thing one wants to stay away from when considering the purchase of a used car. You know; the abuse and all. I don't know quite what to think of the LHD conversion. Plenty of RHD cars made their way into the U.S. The guy down the street from me in 1971 came home with an RHD Fairlady. It was yellow and had headlight covers. I just can't imagine why someone would go to all that trouble and, of course, the question has come up concerning from where the donor parts came. I would bet that the conversion happened after it was imported and that the car has seen major work, parts replacement, and previous owner stuff. None-the-less, the car is unique and appears to be in nice restorable shape. Considering the unique configuration of components in the car, I think you have a lot of latitude for your restoration while still remaining "on course". Have fun and enjoy the ride! Screw the history and let the project be a testament to your automotive skills.

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I see what you did there. "over my head"

I was helping a friend last weekend sort out the same hack job where someone replaced factory FI with carbs and didn't do a good job on the fuel pump wiring. My friend and I tag-team. He provides the mechanical expertise, and I provide the electrical expertise. I'll send you a PM later.

Yes. Did you see Steve post above with a an offer to help wit the wiring? He is really very good wirh the diagrams and how things work. Take him up on his offer!

So how is this for a rookie move? No wonder the car is a little squirrely at high speed! Can't find anyone else to take the blame But driving with lower control arms reversed feels pretty normal up until about 60 mph then it just gets worst from there all the way up. I thought the problem was that I needed more downforce but it didn't help much when I added some, then I started looking at alignment again and was getting ready to install the g-force off set bushing kit when I noticed my rookie mistake. So I reversed the LCA's and installed the rear spoiler and now I can drive fast again and not smell the exhaust.

$50 to clean a tank!!!! Wow. Over $300 here in Canadia....

I used to hit up a gal named Patina late at night. She was rough looking but still good and ran solid.

If you're in a a parking lot get a small boat fire extinguisher at least. A five gallon bucket of water or a ho's pipe if you on the broke side like me.

Some observations; 'S30-01036' would indeed be an early 1970 production (probably January or early February) S30-S Standard model 'Fairlady Z' or S30 Deluxe model 'Fairlady Z-L'. A closer look at your remaining trim and accessories should tell you whether it was a Standard or Deluxe model, but it's more likely to be a Deluxe just based on the law of averages and the stainless trim that I can see. The G-Nose assembly, whether it indeed is a genuine factory item or an early aftermarket copy, would have been attached to the car after (probably quite a way after) October 1971. The original colour of the car looks to be #905 red, which would be correct for a 1970 production Fairlady Z or Z-L. The 'Grand Prix Red' choice on the Fairlady 240ZGs was actually #110, so a different shade. It's kind of a moot point anyway as your car clearly isn't a Fairlady 240ZG. I don't see anything specific that would point to circuit race use in-period. The seats are aftermarket sports seats and are certainly not factory race seats, the centre drop bar brackets for the roll hoop look to be an aftermarket copy of the Nissan Sports Option items (yours appear simplified in comparison to originals) and there's an awful lot of interior re-trim with non-standard materials evident, along with a later centre console. It looks like a fairly typical 70s/80s 'street tune' car to me. The photo of the left door interior looks - to me - to show it is a later replacement. Does the engine bay tag match up with the body serial number engraved on the firewall?

Where is the love button for the Devendorf rig?

I figured it was something like that, but I just couldn't resist. Friends in (or with) "high places" are good!

Pretty slick article. Not sure if it is a good thing or a bad that the value of our cars is rising. I personally think the economy dictates price more than collector value or other factors. I hope the price of parts doesn't all of a sudden go through the roof. I still have several years of work left.

Yes, all 4 and all are in this condition. I just randomly picked this one to clean up tonight. I will clean the rest as I get time.

And since motion is such an important part of the concept, here's a video of the prototype rig:

Okay, here is what I'm taking to Zfest, spent the past couple of days compound buffing wet sanding scratches out of it and installing the bumpers. There is still a few things to do but there will only be a few guys there at the show that will notice.

Possibly sucking debri from the fuel tank. After sitting it settles back to the bottom then when running sucks back up clogging the lines. It happened to me. Ran the fuel hose into a clean gas jug and it ran fine. Dropped the tank cleaned it with acid and lined it with red-kote. Zero problems in 5 years. 280 & 240 both.

Hi, and thanks. I love this car. Before I got it it had been converted to MSD ignition. It has the matching number L24 and has been converted to roundtop carbs. Tokico spirings and Illumina struts and a vented 280Z hood. Since I've owned it it's had new head gasket, valve stem seals, Centerforce II clutch. It is originally a 113 Green Metallic car which I will return it to someday. It has Shelby Diamondback wheels 14x6. My plans are redo suspension bushings, new shocks, stainless braided brake lines, Watanabe R type wheels, stainless exhaust system, and the body work and paint will gradually happen one day. The RX-7 is an '85 GS, streetported 12A. Racing Beat catback exhaust, Centerforce II clutch, BBS Mahle wheels 15x7 The Kafer is a '61 with a 1641cc dual port motor, built from a shell. It's had everything done to it. Thanks for the welcome! I love Datsun's and Z cars and everything I can look at, read, study and see about them. Datsun's, Mazda's and VW's are my favorites.