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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/26/2017 in all areas

  1. You do find em that have been stored sometimes. This 71 hadn't been driven since 79 before it was rescued from the crusher.
  2. I think you're may be on to something, Jim. However, the 'bolt' (actually more like a long stud) is non-rotational because it's designed to be firmly tightened into the blind threaded hole in the float bowl casting. That means that you wouldn't be able to rotate it to a new position (to take advantage of the eccentricity you're proposing) unless you were prepared to leave the threaded stud-to-casting joint 'loose' after you'd found the bolt orientation position you want. Maybe a thin jamb nut? If that would work (and I'm sure that one or all of Capt Obvious, Blue, Patcon, Grannyknot and maybe even Z Therapy are about to start work on this ), then it would seem that the final touch would be to slot the other end of the 'bolt' (where the lock nut) to allow use of a screwdriver to turn the bolt to make adjustments. Adjusting sequence would be: loosen lock nut on end of bolt loosen jamb nut where bolt fits into float casting turn bolt until desired fuel level is observed inside carb nozzle tighten jamb nut tighten lock nut job done One additional thought: I don't think the bolt offset needs to be more than 5mm. That would provide an up-down adjustment of +/- 5mm for the float bowl. If you set the float 'tang' adjustment to the FSM-recommended setting to start with, an additional +/- 5mm of adjustment should be more than enough to zero in on the desired fuel height in the carb nozzle. Gentlemen: Start your lathes. Report back here in a week, with pictures (to prove that it really happened). Whoever wins owes me two finished prototype eccentric bolts.
  3. I would say dealer installled based on the picture of your interior above in post 10.
  4. Your vin plate says nothing about whether the car was auto or 4 speed.....do the swap IMO. Just about everything is the same on the autos and manuals....console, driveshaft etc. The only way you can tell on a good swap is the the clutch hardline...it sits neatly above the other tubes under the hood on the fire wall. Z's were meant to be manuals....IMO it will increase the value if done right....besides, if you are buying for investment, you'll forgo a lot of fun shifting yourself instead of Japan shifting for you. You have to tap on my Flickr pics, but you'll see what I mean.
  5. You won't find it there. The exterior color code is a foil decal on the radiator support. As for the interior color, there is no identifier.
  6. OK guys I tried to like you both but big brother would not let me share some luv!
  7. Get a pic that shows both sides if you can. Preferably the distributor and wires. Looks like a holy mess in there.
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