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Just got a text from the guy I sold it to. No more rust, repainted exterior and some interior. All new weatherstripping and shined up wheels. Looks good and he is very happy with it. Here's what it did look like, 110.zip

As part of the slow refresh of my red '71 240Z I knew I needed to replace all the fuel hoses, especially the big ones that go to the expansion tank in the right rear quarter panel. I'd read all the instructions for saving money by using generic fuel-rated hose and inserting sleeves in them to keep them from kinking and such. But since I am more than a little reluctant to pollute my red car's originality, and also because I really didn't feel like messing with bending and inserting sleeves, I decided to bite the bullet and buy factory hoses. As a side benefit, I figured I could advise others on whether this was as good an idea as it seemed to me at the time. So now that it is done, here are the part numbers I used, and my comments. I got mine at club discount from my local dealer, but your dealer may not offer that. So I included prices from NissanParts.cc for comparison. (Prices current as of 1 May 2007.) 17239-E4601, $27.15. Smaller diameter hose, runs from expansion tank to top right side of the fuel tank. About 3 feet long. Has a preformed double bend at the tank end. This hose is apparently actually correct for '73 240Z, but works OK on '70-72 cars as well. (Correct '70-72 hose is NLA.) The double bend is not quite the same as the one that was on my car, but once pulled into place seemed to work well. Arne's advice - RECOMMENDED, but not absolutely required - The preformed bends do help for this hose. You might be able to get by with generic for this one, but the bend at the tank end might kink some on generic hose. Since this one is affordable, I'd do it. 17235-E4601, $53.20. Large diameter hose with several preformed bends, including a 180 degree bend at the tank end. About 4 feet long. Goes from the expansion tank through the floor to the back of the fuel tank on the right side. Correct for '70-73, fits perfectly. Arne's advice - HIGHLY RECOMMENDED - You need that 180 but would need to sleeve a generic hose to do it. The price of this hose is not that bad considering the three custom bends. Buy it. 17238-E4602, NLA as of 9/09. Large diameter horseshoe shaped hose, less than 2 feet long. Runs from expansion tank to fitting on filler neck. Correct for '70-73. Fits fine. Arne's advice - SOMEWHAT RECOMMENDED, not absolutely required - You can do this one fairly easily with generic, especially if you used a slightly longer hose than normal so that the bend was gentle. And now that it's NLA, you'll probably have to... 17236-E4601, $88.43. Medium diameter long hose. About 6, maybe 7 feet long. No bends at all. Runs from left side of tank up through the floor, across and into the bottom of the expansion tank. Correct for '70-73. Fits fine. Arne's advice - NOT RECOMMENDED - Unless you are a fetishist about original parts, use generic here. This is the most expensive hose from Nissan, but it has NO preformed bends. So there's no advantage to the factory hose on this one. I also used 18" of 3/16" ID fuel hose (return line), 18" of 5/16" ID fuel hose (fuel supply line), and 4 feet of 1/4" ID fuel hose (evap tank to flow valve line) to do all the other hoses there while the tank was out. In addition, I got replacement grommets and hose sealing sleeves from Banzai. The hose sleeves could be replaced with heat shrink, but I felt the real thing wasn't all that expensive. My grommets were still soft, but the replacement hose from the top of the expansion tank to the metal line that goes to the flow valve on the left front inner fender (the 4 feet of 1/4" hose) was a smaller external diameter than stock. One of the grommets I got from Banzai was apparently intended to deal with this difference and worked great at that spot. Anyway, the deed is done. For myself, I'm not sorry that for the red car I bought the long one from Nissan, but for my yellow car I would not have bought that expensive one. I think it worked, the garage does not have that faint gas odor tonight, so I'm happy.

We are still researching the right direction for the interior, but have had good results with other solutions, such as Rustoleum Ceramic Enamel, which doesn't need to be baked on. --- In other news... Freeze plugs: And luscious Nissan blue paint on the block: More angles:

Here is a photo of the two you need and one of the type you have now. If you want them, they are yours. Pm me.

I had to search it myself. You made the big time. Now we're going to have a bunch of old movie fans joining the site. Mike should thank you.

I love stories like this... Bravo to both of you.

So I started messing with the hose connections to the Escort core. I realized that it would be easier if the core were located higher in the air box. So I pushed the core upwards until it reached the original upper locating tabs inside the air box. Here's the core in it's new upper location. Note the holes for the tubes from the first attempt lower position: And then I started playing around with hose connection alternatives. Here's one option... As I was messing with the hoses, it appears that I could use simple generic ninety degree hoses on both sides if it weren't for the fact that the feedthrough nipple assy turned the one hose downward towards the floor. If both feedthroughs were straight instead of bent, it would simplify the hose bends. My feedthrough is all rusty anyway, so I toyed with the idea of making a new one to replace the rusty one. I even went so far as to build myself a crude bead roller. Here's one of my bead rolled test pieces showing what could be done with a redesigned feedthrough assy: But then, as I was toying with the idea of remaking the feedthrough assy, I realized that I could get rid of the metal feedthrough nipples completely and just run the hoses directly through the firewall like they did on the 240's. So I made the original holes a little larger with a Greenlee chassis punch: Popped in some grommets of appropriate design, and ran the tubes straight through. Two generic ninety degree hoses (cheap!!). Here's some pics the hoses straight through the firewall without the rusty metal feedthrough nipple:

Haha!! Well you certainly blanked me with that one and right after I posted that, I realized took the wrong tact. I shouldn't have suggested it wasn't popular and tried to hide behind a shroud of obscurity... Considering it's one of your top ten, what I should have done was watched it!

Very interesting topic and I hope you get to the bottom of these long standing questions you pose. Thought maybe I could help answer a few?? First, I am the current owner of HLS30-00008 and have been for the last 26 years since I bought it in 1991 after it ran its last professional race, the 1990 24 hours of Daytona. Some of the photos posted in this thread I took when I was restoring the car after it raced for 20 years and was very tired. It had several paint jobs through the years as a race car. I knew some of the history of the car and as I began the restoration I wanted to document the paint jobs both as a race car and its previous life as a show car so I hand sanded the roof of the car and photographed the results. I was able to document most of the race paint but couldn't really find any that were similar to the paint from the factory. I spoke to Bob Speakman's wife and she sent me this handwritten note... So you can see the car likely was a few different colors during its time as a show car and I was not able to find any of the early paint since it had already been stripped off by the Speakmans. If I remember correctly, Bob told me the car was silver when they received it. Hope this helps?? BTW, Dave Stone owns the second Z race car Bob Sharp built (not 00008) and the 00009 260Z that was built into a GTU car.

Odd looking front turn signal compared to our US cars??? Don's iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

They should have been short discussions. What evidence is there of body coloured OEM front and rear spoilers on these cars?

Got a nice day in of painting on Friday, so far this is what I have accomplished. I am very happy with the results, The clear is really making the job look well finished. I still have a lot of painting to do..... I'm wondering how far to take this project at this point, I will drive this car alot on nice weather days to run errands for work and I will drive it somewhat hard. I want to clean the engine up but I have zero interest in chrome and bling. Is there a good middle ground? When it comes to the starter, coil, radiator housing, air filter box and other items in the engine compartment, do those items get cleaned or is it common to paint them as well? Any recomendations for maintnance while it's torn apart? I'm doing gaskets and most seals. thanks,

Interesting that the front and rear spoilers are listed as standard equipment and also that they are black and not painted body color. There have been a few discussions in the past on whether they should be body color or not. Dennis

Sometimes it's the simplest things... LOL. Good score on the A/F tester BTW. Sweet!!

Just a thought; the fuel filler hose is different for the 2+2 models. I wonder if these are the only hoses still available.

One man's "severe" is another man's "no problem". "Underneath" covers a lot of area. "Should" is subjective. Not enough here to give an opinion. Do you have a camera?

Something a bit different, Les Collins engine similar to the Green Hornet's.