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To Namerow's question on the fastener style with the hex head and philips indent, I have found those from one supplier called Metric Threaded Products. They are in yellow zinc as well and come in various sizes and lengths and have JIS heads. You can find them here: http://www.metric-threaded.com/browse.aspx?category=JIS B1187&id=7021 The unfortunate part is that you will need to purchase a minimum of 100 pieces, or at least that was the requirement when I purchased a few select sizes some time ago. They are very nice quality though and they also include the integrated lock washer and washer (SEMS). Hope that helps out. Mike.

My driver's side door lock has been difficult to unlock since I acquired the car. The little arm attached to the lock cylinder that fits inside the locking mechanism in the door has way too much play and I had to jiggle the key back/forth forcefully to get it to unlock. While I had the door glass out, I cut a small piece of fuel line from an old weed-eater and slid it over the arm. It works so much better now. Easy to lock/unlock with very little force needed. I shot a little silicone lube on the outside of the hose to keep it from binding in there. Is good, yes?

I'm going to hand out a few of these badges too

Here are some pictures showing my steering wheel makeover for my '72. I wanted something a little different but still keeping some tie in to the original rather than go aftermarket. The first picture shows what it looked like when I bought the car. Covered in some weird wrap and lots of rust. I wanted the redone wheel to be thicker so I wrapped two layers of felt around the original wheel to make it about 1/4" bigger in diameter. Finally, I wanted it wrapped in leather. I considered Wheelskins, but I wanted the outer part of the spoke to be covered as well. It took me a while, but I finally found a local place that sold leather remnants big enough to go around the whole wheel. I used some smaller pieces to develop the templates for the spoke areas as well as to determine the width I wanted. I made myself a little hole punch using brass tubing and punched all the holes. The lacing is RealleatheR craft lace which I bought at JoAnn fabrics. The spokes are painted the same color as the exterior of the car to put just a little pop into my otherwise all black interior. I spent waaaayyy too much time on this, but it IS a hobby and I'm pretty happy with the results.

ZcarDepot sells both total car kits for $269 on sale now at 22% off Part #: 650-000 and other specific areas. https://zcardepot.com/stainless-steel-bolt-kits/body-kits/stainless-steel-bolt-kit.html

Agreed, it's nice to have reliable, modern tech under the hood. The Rebello motor should be a ton of fun! I went a slightly different direction with my current Z, using 123ignition for timing. Still a distributor but it's digital and I have discrete control of the timing curve. Considering getting the Jenvey Weber look-alike throttle bodies if I go EFI at some point down the road. Keep us posted on your project!

What has happened to our DIY culture on this item? Let's see, what do we need? 1. Use a hated polyurethane bushing as a pattern and source of the four steel hole lining bushings. You can also laboriously extract these bushing from your old rubber one too. 2. Acquire a chunk of rubber. Get a few different durometers. If your get 1/4 thickness of various durometers to build a sandwich and experiment with the steering feel until you get what you like. McMaster carr has a large variety of rubber types, some even with reinforcing layers. Rubber suppliers are surprisingly common. This stuff is not high tech. 3. Size and drill the holes using the old poly bushing as a guide. 4. Press the steel bushings into the holes. 5. Assemble on the car and go for a drive.

I think I have a translation: "I do molding of parts and I use a vacuum pump to degas my resin mix before I pour it into the mold. I tried one of those Hella pumps to degas my resin, but the pump was incompatible with the fumes that are come off the mix as you pull a vacuum."