Leaderboard

^ By Ontario standards those cars are rust free.

I was thinking of painting the pan the same color as the block just for that reason, to see oil leaks. But I'm not sure it'll look that good the same color. Yep, I have the bench vise and inch torque wrench. I better check with MSA on how tight on the bolts for the comp gasket, not sure but probably the same as the Nissan one. Light breakfast, then beer when done.

Found the material I mentioned earlier. I've never used it so I can't vouch for any of them, but I see them used a lot on new car transports. I guess price would be my first criteria, but I'm pretty cheap. There is probably a picture of me in the dictionary somewhere under that word. http://www.transportwrap.com http://www.mastershieldprotection.com/xport/ https://www.fellers.com/fellers-shopping/cat/special-use-vinyls/sub/paint-protection/set/auto-wrap-shipping-protection-film This is thicker stuff (6mil) http://www.wholesalemarine.com/shrink-wrap-film-6-mil-14-x-150-79172.html

I had a good experience using the U-Haul car transporter like Mr Arnett shows above. My $.02 worth, park the truck and trailer going down hill before you load the 240. It lowers the chances of scrubbing where the ramps meet the trailer. It's a close fit so make sure and have someone watching your tires and the center of the trailer (don't try it by yourself, trust me). Drive it for about 10 or 15 minutes on the highway then pull off and retighten the straps. They pull so good you'll' forget it's back there, they have trailer brakes but still you don't want to run up on an almost stopped car. Park under an over-pass if it starts hailing or something but with the car being so small and tucked in behind the tow vehicle it'll barely get wet if it's just a normal rainfall, I ran into one during my trip. I set the cruise on 75 and turned up the radio after about 30 minutes, it's a breeze. Glad you are getting your Z back where it belongs.

Here's my car on a U-Haul last year. The U-Haul and other rental trailers are pretty tongue heavy when empty and the vehicle then loads very far forward. I suspect the tongue weight on my factory hitch was substantially over the 500# rating. We made it to Memphis and back with no issues but I have since joined with my son-in-law on the purchase of a car hauler so I can better balance the load the next time.

Looks good!

Just to finish off this thread, I wound up using ksechler's suggestion and used compression unions. The reason being that I will use a phosphoric acid wash to prep for POR 15 tank sealer and I don't think rubber and clamps would hold up long term. For the curious, the bottom return line is a 5/16". The top feed line is a definite 10mm, not a quick and easy find for a compression union.

These guys seem to be addressing the problem. They say the right words anyway. Worth a shot maybe. They have some other interesting products too. https://whiteheadperformance.com/product/whiteline-steering-coupler-kit-w11044-datsun-240z-260z-280z/ http://www.whiteheadperformance.com/?s=whiteline+240z&post_type=product

RIT fabric dye is what I used to get my faded straps back to a nice black - no change to the thickness or texture of the material. Soak the straps in a bucket with the dye and water for about 15 min., stir a few times, let dry, reinstall.

Came across an interference today between the stock washer fluid bottle and the Tilton 3/4" Clutch Master so had to remove the hanger for the washer bottle and shorten it a bit so there is enough room for the clutch line fitting. Every air chisel I have ever seen or used has a double bevel on the chisel, both sides are ground toward the center. Now maybe it is physics or maybe Murrphy's law but when parting two pieces of metal that are spot welded it is always the metal that you want to keep that gets torn up by the chisel, every time. The flange for the washer bottle was tight in there and I couldn't get the spot weld drill in so used the air chisel and of course the good side tore, then I started thinking about wood chisels that you can 'steer' so you don't have to gouge too deep. One side is ground flat and the other is beveled to the flat side. I grabbed an old chewed up air chisel and re ground it just like a wood chisel and damed if it didn't work like a charm, I had complete control. Now maybe this is something that everyone else knows about but it was new to me. You can see the top spot weld was cut with the double beveled chisel and tore a piece off of the side I wanted to keep, the lower spot weld was cut using the modified wood chisel shape. I manged to remove all the rust from the sugar scoops but some of the metal was so thin you could push it in with your finger, got lucky though, my daily check through craigslist and kijiji paid off with a pair of perfect metal scoops with out a single dent, $75 for the pair

I was able to obtain a rebuild kit out of Canada last week, so they are still around.