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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/10/2016 in all areas

    • 3,573 downloads
    • Version 1.0.1
    This is a relatively high resolution pdf version of the 1970 Factory Service Manual - Body & Chassis Volume. Does not include the Engine Volume. Source: DATSUN 240Z SPORTS SERVICE MANUAL MODEL S30 SERIES CHASSIS AND BODY Issued Date: 15th August 1970 (020030) Printed in Japan Publication No. SM0E-0S30G0 NISSAN MOTOR CO., LTD.
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  1. This is my first Z. She is Redwing, a 1971 purchased new, HLS 30 11904. This first photo is celebrating her first 100,000 miles. Sorry, there is not more of her to see, this is the only old photo I could find. I was christening her with wine. The second photo is a 200,000 mile photo. I drove her 259,000 miles total. She is now in the hands of Tim, who is doing a full restore on her.
  2. Hello again, Been quite a while since I posted here. How’s this for an update? September 2006 Acquired my uncle’s 1976 2+2. He got it around 1980 or 81. Drove it from Houston, TX to Glendale, CA. It’s not in the best of shape. Has over 300,000 miles on it. October 2006 After getting my 76 2+2 that was originally my uncles checked out at a shop in Glendale, CA, it was evident that the car was a rusty mess. Too many years in east Texas rain. Began looking for a rolling shell. Engine/transmission OK, so are interior parts and other odds and ends. Gonna keep the rims too. 14” Western Mesh from who knows how long ago. June 2007 Not much luck finding a rolling shell, but did find a couple running cars from Bakersfield to near Sacramento. Decided to take a long day trip to check them all out on a Saturday. 1st up was Bakersfield; a 78 that ran strong, needs full interior, suspension work, but more rust than I’d like. 2nd was near Fresno. Another ok runner needs interior/ bumpers, all sorts of odds and ends. Last for the day was Auburn CA. Found original owner 75. This is the car I bought. 140,XXX miles, factory A/C. Needs brakes and paint, but the car is 100% intact. Most everything original. Never in an accident. Almost everything works, except an early 80’s radio (ended up being a fuse) and the washer fluid pump. Least amount of rust on a Z I’ve seen in person. So far as I can tell, just spotted rock chip rust hear and there. Floor boards are good, rails good, spare wheel area good. Put deposit down to pick up the next week. Had brakes worked on by the PO’s mechanic in Auburn during the week, and drove it back the next Saturday. The car hadn’t been on a long trip in a while but made it back no problems. June 2008 At a shop in Glendale, CA, got the 5-Speed swapped into the car and they stripped the rusty 76 of all salvageable parts. Put the 14” western rims on as well. July 2008 to August 2015 Life happens: Got laid off, found new job, got married, bought apt. in Burbank, CA. All the while, kept driving the car and doing fluid changes and what not, but that’s about it. September - October 2015 My brother moved to Lancaster briefly, so finally had a place to do some work on the car for a couple months, as much as time and budget allows. So began a serious tune-up and replaced the following; Rubber fuel hoses, Injectors, injector connectors, plugs and wires, distributor cap, rotor, fuel filter, air filter, fusible links and cap, fram fuel filter before fuel pump, new battery cables, battery hold down, new alternator, belts, oil change, coolant flush. January 2016 Back to Burbank now. I can work on the car in the underground garage, HOA is cool, as long as I don’t do fluid changes or jack up the car (can’t anyway as parking spot is on incline) and have to cleanup when done. No problem there. Installed battery cut off switch, and notice the 1st of the previous owner’s peculiarities after recently studying the electrical system in FSM. The fusible link between battery and EFI was replaced with two 20amp reg inline fuses. Replaced that with a properly crimped and insulated maxi-fuse. February 2016 Noticed a coolant leak. Had a shop replace the water pump and gasket. All good now. Began replacing all the vacuum lines. Started slow/ took my time, but got them all done except the brake booster hoses. Started the car, smoke everywhere. I went through FSM, and found in the process of replacing vacuum lines I knocked the other electrical connectors around. They are corroded and just about crumble when touched. June 2016 Finished replacing all the other electrical connectors, cleaned all the other electrical connections, and replaced bullet & butt connectors. Dyno Label maker with heat resistant labels made this so much easier. Replaced AFM Boots, PCV Valve and PCV Hose. Opened up the AFM to have a look, and it seems to have never been opened. Everything inside was shiny and original. I sealed it back up and re-installed. Read to many stories about jacked up AFM’s. Same with the TPS. Started the car for the first time in three and a half months. No problems. Fired right up and runs smooth, no smoke. July 2016 Installed re-built combo and turn signal switch. Installed famous headlight relays and parking light relays upgrade. They work great. Installed a set of Hella 500 driving lights under the front bumper. Wired it up with a proper relay. Had them laying around for when the “fog” lights go out in my 2005 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited (daily driver). If you’re gonna have ginormous bumpers may as well use them for something. Noticed the hazard lights don’t work. Don’t know when that stopped working, never had to use them. Turn signals worked no problem. Cleaned the switch, still no hazards. Ended up replacing the flasher. All good now. Getting to the flasher is something else though. Mine was original and still screwed down. Was able to get my hand up far enough to get the wired connector loose and place on new flasher unit. Zip-tied and velcroed down, all is good. Also noticed the other electrical connectors under the dash (those I can reach/see) are nice and shiny. August 2016 Replaced the side view mirror with a chrome 240z style aftermarket mirror. Old one would crumble and chip if looked at funny. September 2016 Went over everything done in the past year. Checked and re-checked. Found a couple things to tighten up, clean, etc… November 2016 Suspension needs refresh. Drives like a squishy bumper car. Who knows how many suspension parts are original. It’s next on the list, gonna keep stock. Gonna have to farm this work out. That’s where I’m at now. After the suspension is refreshed, I’m gonna work on the replacing all the cooling system hoses. and HVAC seals.
  3. Me and my first Z. Picture of a picture of a time long gone: I should show this to my kids to prove that despite what they think, I really was cool at one time
  4. We have a copyright release from Nissan headquarters to provide these documents for the classic z. From what I understand we are the only club or business that has an official release to do this for the benefit of the club and sustainability of this classic car. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  5. Channeling SteveJ with my own valve cover project. This one came off a parts car and really needs a lot of work. Those baby buffing wheels do a pretty good job of getting into all the tight areas around the cast lettering.
  6. Well I'm happy (and sad too..) to say this baby is history. She has been sold. Local buyer. On to the next project!
  7. Snap up one of those babies and store it away for 50 years. 1000 to the US and 250 to Canada? Grab a Canadian one with the metric speedo for global collector value. Don't let this one get away, it could be another 40 years before the Black Pearl Leaf arrives on the market. Dennis
  8. Love the picture Jai. That's great!
  9. I've made two attempts to contact the seller starting two weeks ago and have had no response yet. I think the car was priced a little low and prob more in the $12k-$13k range based on the condition from pics. Considering shipping costs for out of state buyers, I would say it would have been a great buy. If the seller was not sure about pricing the car, then he should not have listed a price that he was looking to get. Suggestion to the seller the next time you want to sell a car and don't know the value, list the car on eBay with a million dollar reserve, start the auction at a penny and see what it ends for. That will give you an idea of what people are willing to pay for it with no risk to you.
  10. My first. A used 71' that was silver when I got it. This is when it was just painted black by a friend of mine. Rebuilt the engine and Ported and polished the head. I had dreams about it for years…..
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