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I am restoring a 240z heater box. The little rubber grommets that the side vent door rods slide through (to open and close) are hardened and falling apart on my box. I found something very close to the original grommets at Marco Rubber. Part number is GMT1029. Their phone number is 603-468-3600. No way to order online. I can't recall ever seeing suitable replacements so thought I would share. Attached are 3 photos.

Hey Z members, Just wanted to let you all know that I have 1 set of inner rocker panels available. made two sets for two customers, decided to make an extra, below are pictures of the general process that goes into making these. The parts at the end get coated with Bloxide rust preventative weldable primer to keep from rusting during shipping and before installation. You have the option to purchase the panels with what I call tie in plates/support plates. There is a front end plate and a rear end plate on each passenger and driver side. The front plates I am selling for $25 each and the rear plates for $10 each, so a total of $70 for all four corners. The fronts are more pricey due to it being larger and containing more dimple holes and beads. These are what the outer and inner rocker panels mostly weld on to. I Do not have any pictures to show of it, but will post some up later of what they look like. chances are that if your replacing your rocker panels, the tie in plates will be rotter as well, great chance to weld in some new ones.

Price drop!! Front bar for $40 plus shipping.

Started the diff swap! R200 3:9 going out, R180 3:9 Subaru STI going in.

That's what I was suspecting. It comes down to expectations... You had none, so the hard pedal was "normal". I would fix the system up as soon as you can afford though. And after what I've seen with the rebuilt units, I'd be comfortable running a used booster as long as it has never inhaled brake fluid from a failed master cylinder. As Patcon mentioned above, that's probably the most common cause of a failed booster. pffffft... Never driven anything older than 97. I've not yet owned anything NEWER than 99. Ever!! Even my kids car is seven years newer than mine. Man... I gotta get out more.

Well, a project like this is never "done" but I'm going to call the restoration complete. The car is registered and I drove it several times this weekend. A couple initial impressions: The car is LOUD. Despite using $1K worth of sound deadening there is still quite a bit of noise. I'm chalking it up to old cars and it's good noise anyway. I need to work on the carb jetting. It's little rich in the low range and feels a little sluggish coming up. Mid to upper range it goes like hell and is almost scary - Thanks Eiji! This car is TIGHT. Good tight! No body roll when corning and it sticks like glue. The steering wheel is heavy, though and I'm not sure if I think it's right. However, I haven't had the car aligned yet. I'm kinda scared to let anyone else touch her. The brakes are so-so. Good stopping power but heavier in the pedal than a modern car. It makes heel-toe down shifting very difficult. Other than that, the car works surprisingly well considering it is newly off a 4-year rotisserie restoration. Photos will follow probably tomorrow.

Awesome! Just remember that now you're driving around with rock hard brakes. They work, but could be a problem in a panic situation, I got my rebuilt booster from Rock Auto, and I didn't check stock, but I would be surprised if the one I got was their last one. I would assume they have more. But if I were going through it again, I think I would pay a little extra at a brick-n-mortar local store for the ability to open the box and see the booster before I paid for it. Out of curiosity... You bought the car and it came to you with the booster blocked off with that bolt, right? Didn't the brakes feel a little firm to you? Or since you had never driven one before, you thought they were supposed to feel like that?

Oh I looked into the dry sump and wet sump with a remote pump, very expensive! But just today I 95% finished the engine and tranny mounts and I have 1/2" between the oil pan and steering rack and 1/2" between the air box and the hood and could probably tweak another 1/4" if I tried. So, it fits! I could always slice the top front corner off the cast aluminum air box which would give me lots of room to play with but now I don't think I will have to. I shimmed the hood up to where I want it and can just get my pinky between it and the air box.

Have you cleaned the fuel tank, fuel lines, fuel injection system? Does it have fresh fuel in it?

Not any way near as high-tech (or entertaining, for that matter ), Eastwood has a new gizmo for rust removal and prep work on the way. They even show it in use on a Z: https://www.instagram.com/p/BJi6qSEAbQf/embed/captioned/?v=7