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Here is an interesting old thread that explains the elephant oil & cap lore. Apparently, Nissan branded the oil to commemorate their success in the EAS Rally.

I've dinked around with several engines in the garage and have always wished I didn't have to mount a transmission to spin the motor. I thought of a possibility and had some scrap steel and time so worked up a quick mount, that actually works. I had started out using a spare starter and the back of an engine for measurements then realized that the backing plate on the engine has all of the necessary holes, a ready-made template. If you have a drill press, and a jig saw, it's not too difficult. A battery, starter, and the plate and I can spin a free-standing engine as long has it has a flywheel. The steel is 3/16" x 2 1/2" mild steel, hot-rolled I believe. I showed the starter bolted to the plate but in use the plate has to go on first and the starter through the backing plate hole. I also bolted the plate to the engine backing plate when I drilled the engine mounting holes. Less error using the engine plate as a guide. Just another thought I wanted to get out there. Might be handy for someone. Forgot to say, 3/16" is the limit on thickness. There's a sliver of space between the plate and the flywheel. No running, but no room either.

It is my understanding that the Elephant oil cap was produced in honor of the East African Rally win. I am not sure if they were put on cars at the factory, but my 73 had one on it when i bought it in 1977. Bonzi Lon

Here is the holy grail. Behold... a brand new one. Edit: location secret until after Gav240z refinances house and buys new radio

The Rally Clock was listed as OP (Optional Equipment). So it stays ;).

Yes that's my problem, I want what is original to my 72 AU delivered 240z. Which was the earlier style unit. This is what I currently have out of a Fairlady Z-S with no antenna switch and you'll note there is no DX->LOW insignia below the tuning knob label. It certainly looks the part and I thought about just putting an antenna switch in (since I have a couple spare) but I figure if I can get the original I would. In AU market cars, all our cars from 1970-73 had the TM-1081ZA unit. You can get replacement Faceplates from 240zrubberparts.com and in fact that's exactly what I did. See thread here.

What they said, save it if you can. You can find one for a 77' but it will cost you dearly! http://www.zcarsource.com/gas-tank-sending-unit-280z-77-78-rebuilt-de_8_55266_52788.html

Gas tank looks good. That's important. Easier to find unicorns...

Well I am so pleased with all the work I did last year on the Z I decided to have some fun with her. She has never run so well and feel so good as she does right now. As a celebration I decided to have some fun with my gal. I ordered some static racing roundies and plan to take it form there to make her into a 70's race car for a summer. Go to some shows and see some reactions. Here is where I am so far. Next up I want to get some new wheels and get them powercoated entirely matt grey (14x7 rewinds maybe because I cannot even find watanabe's) Then I will probably get the hood wrapped flat black as well just for kicks. Finally I want to get some vintage racing static decals. Which may prove hard. My goal is to be able to totally undue it in about an hour should I want to. Any ideas or leads to help me along. 2016 I am going to find my alter ego 70's race car driver guy.

That depends on the year. You don't mention the year of your Z. The first few years had little to no electronics. Little to go wrong with points in the dist. The later Zs have had problems as you describe. I believe it's the ECU that's the usual culprit. (I'm not very knowledgeable about engine management systems.) RedBird is about to replace hers to see if she can eliminate her intermittent problems.

Yes, true….but that is why we love them. My interior was shot, bad paint, missing passenger floor pan and rail, rust holes in all the usual places, no front bumper and evidence of questionable attempts at various failed repairs. Some folks would have called it a POS, I saw it as fertilizer for my soul.

You've got that the wrong way around: 4-speed diff ratio is 3.364:1 and 5-speed diff ratio is 3.9:1 (4.44:1 with S20 engine).