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I'm not worried about locks myself. I have 4 dogs, shotguns, etc.... If none of those work, meet my wife after I show her the Z receipts. (just kidding)

1970 build date 9/70 HLS30-10558 I have owned this Z since 1985 Bought in Lancaster CA after landing a Job in aircraft after obtaining my A@P. It was my daily driver till 1989 when I bought a new SEV6 Nissan truck. I started the resto soon after removed the L24 from rebuild and replaced with L28 motor and running fear. After the L24 was finished it was reinstalled in the car and the L28 was rebuilt with high comp pistons miled cam and trip webers. The L24 was removed and the rebuilt L28 installed. Started the body work and all that needed replacing was the left rear quarter. After the body was streight I installed a MSA body kit then the car was primered with many coats of K200 and one round of top coat white. By now with job changes and life I moved back to CT in 1995 and the car was in tow. Fast forward to 2015 it was time to pull her out of storage and get her back on the road. I refreshed the break and clutch systems changed the fluids cleaned the carbs and she is a runner once again. As i do not have a garage my plan in the spring is a full resto.. As bought..

Both of you are so right.Please read on the URL I sent. I am so amazed with what I read. I chose Diamond Natural, incidentally before reading the list, turns out my intuition was right. It is a 4 star food. Equal to some of the known best food names. It is $33 for 40#'s too. Which is not bad at all. Some of the other 4 star ones are a lot more expensive. I saw one that is $79 for 40 #'s, way above me. Yes, sadly you get what you pay for, and there are circumstances that only allow cheap a$$ food, like when one is broke. Another reason I hate money. Think too, the big companies ONLY WANT TO MAKE MONEY, they could care less if half the pets die from their toxic food. Read my lips...GREED!!! God bless these super friends with 4 legs, they make life livable when often times it isn't. Take care my friends... Jai 😇 🚘 (Thank you Cliff.)

I think purina dog chow caused my dog to die too soon, it's trash in a bag but too late now. My next dog will eat like a King. Losing them isn't worth the ease and price of Dog Chow. You get what you pay for lesson I've learned the hardest way imaginable. I miss my dog! Thinking of Deanna. Hopefully she'll pull through like Red Bird has. Cliff

Most of the popular brands, due to advertising, aren't good quality. Purina, puppy chow, science diet aren't quality at all. Taste of the wild, Blue Buffalo are some good ones. PMG

Glad you have a Z, welcome to the forum, now show us some pictures please, we like pictures. Hit the "More Reply Options" button down at the bottom then "Choose Files" or copy and paste.

If you go to electronic ignition. You have several styles to choose from. If you use the 280Z models, you will need some extra hardware. - The 77 280Z style uses the external TIU (Transistorized Ignition Unit). The TIU is located next to the passengers foot at the passengers kick panel in the cabin. You could mount that next to the coil or in the cabin. Cabin would be best location. - The early 76 280Z havd a dual timing for cold and warm engine temperatures. You can use this model , but it requires an extra temperature sender to change timing. The alternative here would be to wire it using one pick-up from the distributor and don't use the temperature circuit. - The 78 280Z. Same as the 77, but don't forget to take the TIU plug from the wiring harness and enough wire to solder your wiring to. This TIU uses a 6-pin connector plug, where the older units use a terminal block. You should also grab the terminal block on the inner fender where the wires from the distributor connect. - The 79 280ZX and later. There are some differences over the years, but they essentially work with the TIU built into the distributor. Its a neat compact design and you can still buy recon units from amason, advance auto & others. http://www.amazon.com/Cardone-31-619-Remanufactured-Import-Distributor/dp/B000C46L52/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Nissan%7C67&Model=280ZX%7C875&Year=1981%7C1981&ie=UTF8&n=15684181&newVehicle=1&s=automotive&vehicleId=1&vehicleType=automotive Atlanticz has a good write up on rebuilding and swapping then into the early S30 models. You can read up on them here: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributorrebuild/index.html http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributor/index.html I like the 280Z style because you have the freedom to play with the TIU. Its easy to fit a HEI module and if its in the cabin, its dry and cool. The ZX type is out in the elements and heat for 30 plus years which takes its toll. Not saying the 280Z TIU is better, just my preference. The 123ignition is a nice system, but comes at a price. I have heard of problems with the distributor cap on some vehicles and one on this forum so the datsun variant has that issue too. Don't know if its a weakness or maybe a couple of faulty units?

Lumens, I remember, I still don't believe that ignition has been ruled out. I would just like to see the same test results more than once to be sure. If she tried to start it or turned the key off and on the results are suspect...

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Posted by Jai on November 11th. "This morning RedBird started great and warmed up with no problem. Drove to the body shop, (story about that below). Leaving there, started and drove to the local flea market. When leaving the flea market she started and then stalled. Jumped out and QUICKLY opened hood to look at the fuel gauge. It was exactly on 30. Tried to restart her, and she willingly did."

Started taking a look around and checking out the fuel tank/evap. Things look pretty good if you ask me, I'm not seeing a big reason to replace this stuff. I'll replace the fuel lines out of the tank, but all the evap and filler stuff seems really good. The filler tube is pretty nice on the inside, can't confirm its connection to the tank. The hose clamp is quite oxidized, but doesn't really mean much for the health of the tube AFAIK. I drained the tank, and while I think it might have had fresh gas put it in recently, almost nothing can out of the tank but clear liquids. I was planning to drop the tank and look inside just to clarify, but given that the J bolts weren't wanting to budge... I'm not sure i should even bother. I plan to replace the flexible fuel lines and spray some injector cleaner through the hardlines while inspecting them. Hopefully that is sufficient for the rear end. Of course in the engine bay I will change out the other soft lines and filters and such. The evap lines under the car are pretty decent as well. Not sure at what point this stuff needs to be replaced, but it would be great to limit the replacements right now to just the fuel carrying lines.

They're only as secure as the door frame anyway. A good master key is a sledgehammer, opens them right up. Back to putting my model car together.

Jai, like said above, check the fuel pressure before trying to restart it. Because as soon as you turn the key to the start position you energize the fuel pump. So thats why everyone is telling you to check pressure before trying to restart it.