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I'm going to delete the vapor tank and run the big filler vent hose direct to the gas tank. I believe it is 5/8, I'll look for some pex fittings at the hardware store.

I've always liked "Cool Hand Luke"

On the trailer (so to speak) ... https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=4Szj0gCkFuk

Another hint....

I'm a couple of posts in but thought I'd say hi from the UK, I've just got a 72 240Z which I've bought from Spokane WA and as we speak is on its way from LA to Southampton, it had a suspension off restoration in 2011 and has covered around 2000 miles since, I'll post up some pictures if I can, I'm not new to 240Z's I had one 32 yrs ago when I was 18, sold it for a TR6 then bought it back after a few years and had it restored, kept it for around 10yrs until I bought a 1980 911, when I was 35 in 2000, I had them both for a short while but with a young family I couldn't justify/afford to keep them both, I always regret selling it and looked back fondly at the times I had with it, my current weekend car is a BMW Z4M Roadster which I really like but I'm so excited to be getting back in a Z, it should land here early May, I then have to get the lights/electrics changed over to pass our governments Transport test, marker lights need to become indicators and I need to change the rear lights to euro spec, I have some on there way from JDM, any how I'm really enjoying this forum and hope to contribute where I can ! I'll see if I can attach some pics :-) Cheers Darren

I'll second that comment! It's my favorite.

Super nice! Enjoy that beautiful Z & welcome.

beautiful! lovely all around and looks to be well sorted - nice find!

Welcome, Darren! You've got great taste in sports cars! Glad to have you in our little community! Sarah

The trick to getting the rivets to go in is to push the panel(s) tightly to the metal behind it- you don't want any gaps. Then put the pin in the rivet head a bit and carefully get all 4 legs through the whole thing and press the pin in until flush. There has to be a tool to help press the pin in? You need three or four hands to get the stuff right (or some luck) I've been using the handle of a stubby screwdriver. For the price of these rivets, you ought to get a bunch of extra pins with it. I've tried the 4p nail, and it tore up the rivet (it's too hard for the old plastic) and takes too long to make (cut the nail in thirds, grind/sand the ends and burs smooth) So I'm sticking wit the 3mm wood dowel pins; you get 50 or so from a 1m length for only $1.

That's a nice 240Z you got there ! I bet you can't wait hahaha :: !

Looks great. Orange is a fantastic color.

Well hello Nice Car Guy. Those are beautiful.

Yup. That's the one. They called that the Flow Guide Valve, and it's purpose was to vent the gas tank pressure into the crankcase when the engine wasn't running. These vapors would be "stored" there until the engine was running, and then once the engine was running, those vapors were pulled into the intake manifold through the PCV and burned. I'm skeptical as to how effective an engine crankcase is for "storing vapors", and apparently the emissions czars were as well because starting in 74 they went away from the idea of storing the vapors in the crankcase and went to the activated carbon canisters instead. I've not had anything early enough to have a flow guide design (everything I've had is 74 or newer), but I believe the years with the flow guide were supposed to have a non-vented gas cap. The flow guide is supposed to direct air from the air cleaner housing into the tank if the tank draws a vacuum. In other words, the later years used a check valve in the gas caps, but I think the earlier years did that check valve function as part of the flow guide valve. In any event, there still needs to be a way to vent pressure out of the tank.

We have had numerous customers asking for new floats. It covers everything from "I stabbed mine with a screw driver" to "they are soaking up gas". The longer time has gone on the more prevalent the calls have become. We have been installing used floats up to now just to get good ones going out but the combination of the cries for floats and our supply of "good used" getting leaner, it was time . NISSAN had no more and pricing on the last we bought from them was about 3 times what ours are going for. Bottom line: Time to step up and add another part to our manufactured list. All of our Z car and 2 liter roadsters will now include ZT-30 floats as part of the package....... Any of our carbs out in the field will have perfectly serviceable floats (until you stab them with a screwdriver or some such)......

I'm on schedule but will be as sore as ever. I decided to drop the transmission onto a motorcycle jack I've used before for holding it to roll around while I pressure washed it. BAD idea for my 50 plus years old cracked up to hell garage floor. Getting my Dad's cherry picker tomorrow to pull the block out. I can't believe I wouldn't wait and get them both together. Stupid mistake I'll never repeat. This time I'm making a pile throughout the day then going back and bagging and boxing up everything in the evenings. Seems to be a lot less worrisome. RossiZ I have my console out so if I can take some measurements or pictures just let me know.

65 degrees here yesterday. I cleaned up and out my garage then drove the little car for the rest of the day. Those new 15x7s with 205-50s make all the difference in the world. Looks good and drives like it's on a rail. Anyway, all I did last night was pull the hood off. But today I'm filling up some boxes and baggies. DJ that book was crucial when I rebuilt my very 1st car engine, my '77 280. I'd only took the top end off dirt bikes then in the early 90s I learned how to work on outboard motors by working with a mechanic while I was healing after an ankle fusion surgery. He turned out to be a good friend that I'm still in touch with today, Dr Brown we call him. I had a 2.5 liter Mercury V6 with OMC carburetors that would turn 9,200 RPMs with a 24 pitch prop. 8,000 with a 26 or 28 prop (can't remember) was 102 MPH on a handheld GPS I had in a pouch on back of the driver's seat. 1,200 lb boat and motor I raced 1/4 mile side by side "run what you brung". It was a '83 Hydrostream Vector. Sorry about that, great memories from then. Anyway I have to do everything by myself and taking the engine apart piece by piece is the easiest way for me without banging the car up. After getting the top off I put 2 head bolts in the block and lifted it out with a hoist. It may take a little longer but I tend to make mistakes when I try to do too much at once. I let the 280 motor worry me to death, not going to happen with the 240. I've learned enough with Tom's book and the helpful members on here to have some confidence now, plus the 240 is so basic and simple I can hardly wait to tear into it. I'm going to take the block and head to the machinist in North Georgia. They're going to set up the valve train and notch my block for the exhaust valves. Port match and anything else I can afford. When I take it apart, if there's anything that looks suspect I'll have it checked out by my local machine shop.