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[2022] What Did You Do To/with Your Z Today?


zed2

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On 8/8/2022 at 5:20 PM, siteunseen said:

Here's the "Queen bean with sweet tea".

This has been like a ship's wheel for me, "driving me nuts" for the last 2 years. Finally starting to care about the cars again so I've drained the old fuel and will replace all filters tomorrow. Exmark is completely full BTW.

Sitting off and on for 2 years. It ain't good. LOL

But no sign of Red-Kote! Hurray me.

20220808_163314.jpg

20220808_163247.jpg

 

Finally got around to buttoning up this little project. Now I know for my 2/72 240Z after completing draining the tank and replacing two fuel filters, OE on the firewall and precautionary one right out of the tank, 5 gallons of fuel puts my gauge on EMPTY. When it was dry as a bone the gauge needle wouldn't move and was a quarter of an inch below EMPTY. 

Lesson for me going foward: when my gauge gets to Empty I still have 5 gallons of fuel in the tank. I like knowing that to be positively true for my car. And Red-Kote is a fantastic tank liner as I have not seen any type of failure since 2015 when I lined the tank.

Good day.

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Too add more info from my experience today. I've realized what I thought was a long time sitting problem where I have to tap my float chambers with a rubber handled screwdriver to get mine to crank after a month or so turns out my lids were loose, not terribly loose but the 4 screws needed a few rounds to get them snug again.

That could be the reason the bowls were empty, evaporation from not snug lids? I know @dutchzcarguy said he had to pop his to. Maybe this would be helpful to you Mart.

Everything is back to normal now. I had leaking lids on start up which could be disastrous out on the freeway. I assume the new filters gave me better psi and caused the constant dripping of fuel onto my 6to1 header runners. 

Thank you all for the help over the years. Couldn't have been a better team effort from all of you. I'll always be in debt to CZCC members. :beer:

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3 hours ago, siteunseen said:

Too add more info from my experience today. I've realized what I thought was a long time sitting problem where I have to tap my float chambers with a rubber handled screwdriver to get mine to crank after a month or so turns out my lids were loose, not terribly loose but the 4 screws needed a few rounds to get them snug again.

That could be the reason the bowls were empty, evaporation from not snug lids? I know @dutchzcarguy said he had to pop his to. Maybe this would be helpful to you Mart.

Everything is back to normal now. I had leaking lids on start up which could be disastrous out on the freeway. I assume the new filters gave me better psi and caused the constant dripping of fuel onto my 6to1 header runners. 

Thank you all for the help over the years. Couldn't have been a better team effort from all of you. I'll always be in debt to CZCC members. :beer:

So spending all that time in the shop with the car was OK with your serpent friend?

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14 hours ago, siteunseen said:

the reason the bowls were empty, evaporation from not snug lids?

No.. they were tightly closed.  The problem there was no fuel into the bowls because the needle valves were clogged or to old and have worn needles. I cleaned them with some carb cleaner but now the temps are high it has no problem to start as there is enough fuel.. maybe when the temps are lower the problem comes back.. then i need some new needlevalves for the early 71 carbs.. (Yeah 2 different ones..) 

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Finally took some action on my car yesterday!!  I dropped the fuel tank.  Found all original hoses to be very crusty!  Tank was clean inside with just a little sediment.  Outside was in pretty good shape with just some surface rust here and there.  I'll be taking care of the rust and giving it a fresh coat of Eastwood's.  Ordered Stainless straps, a new filler hose, new through-grommets and a bunch of fuel line.  I am going to need some new hose clamps and prefer to stick with the same style of clamps, can anyone direct me to a good source?

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  • 2 weeks later...

Had tank exterior blasted and found one pinhole, so I decided to go the POR-15 route.  Cleaned inside of tank with Super Clean and 3 pieces of 1/2" chain to bash all the crap off the inside of tank while I was waiting for the POR-15 to arrive.  Used both quarts of POR cleaner/degreaser with the chain and a good rinse in between.  Rotated tank for about 3 hrs. with the POR Metal Prep inside, drained and used my heat gun to make sure inside of tank was bone dry.  Just when I thought it was dry, I kept seeing moisture inside.  Turns out the inner seams hold a fair bit of moisture, so I slowly moved the heat gun around the outside of the seams and I could look inside and see the moisture evaporating out, leaving a dry, gray seam, rather than a dark, moist seam.  Mixed up the coating and poured it in.  Rotated tank for about 45 minutes before draining excess out of the drain hole.  Continued to peer inside and rotate for another hour or so, until it looked like it was starting to kick and drained the rest of the excess.  Continued to rotate and look inside to assure that I didn't have any pooling.  When the coating was moving real slow, I set the tank upside down on the work bench.  The bottom of my tank was pretty clean, the top of the tank was a little more corroded due to moisture vap, and the pinhole was also on the top, so I wanted any pooling product up to, that also assured it didn't pool at the drain plug, orthe small slits in the bottom of the one baffle.  Checked on it a couple hours later and I have to say, I am pretty impressed.  It looks so good!

Tomorrow, I will give the outside a light sanding as some light flash rust has developed from all of the flushing/cleaning, and I'll give it a coat of satin black epoxy primer.  I think this will help to bolster the pinhole from the outside.  I've got all new braided lines and a new fill hose, so I'll probably be ready to install it on Tuesday.

Next up, MSA premium exhaust install from the stock exhaust manifold back.  Once that is in, I should be able to do a quick oil and tranny fluid change, radiator flush and get her back on the road!  It's been a few years since I've had her on the road, hopefully it will be exhaust/gas fume free!.

 

 

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4 hours ago, Patcon said:

Be sure it well cured!

What does the Por15 liner product look like?

Hi Charles…..It’s a durable clear, rock hard coating that seals the tank. I highly recommend it.

Guy

Edited by Diseazd
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4 hours ago, Diseazd said:

Hi Charles…..It’s a durable clear, rock hard coating that seals the tank. I highly recommend it.

Guy

It sounds like the Caswell material I used. Looked and smelled like two part epoxy.  Super hard when cured.

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Well, the POR treatment looks amazing!  Very happy with the results (and glad that job is behind me!).  Tried to remove the downpipe? from the stock exhaust header today.  The nuts didn't feel too rusty, but they wouldn't budge with the only (1/4" drive) ratchet I had.  Picked up a larger ratchet, extension and swivel and will try again tomorrow.  Soaked them good with PB Blaster and will take a torch with me tomorrow as well.

While I was under the car, I noticed that the soft clutch line that connects the clutch slave and clutch hard line was cracked, so I started fiddling with it (I had a new replacement in my parts bin!).  The clips were completely rusted and I could not get things turning.  I finally got the compression nut to turn in the soft line but realized that the compression nut was frozen to the hard line and was twisting it.  Finally got the clip free, but could not get the compression nut to budge from the hard line, so it looks like I'll be ordering a new hard line.

I need to put one more coat of paint on the outside of my refurbished fuel tank in the morning, then I'll try and remove the exhaust again.  clutch hard line MIGHT make it here by the end of the week and the Unicoils I needed for the 180 degree bend vent hose from the tank will be here Thursday, so I may get her back on the road by next weekend. Fingers crossed.

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  • 3 weeks later...

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