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[2022] What Did You Do To/with Your Z Today?


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On 8/8/2022 at 5:20 PM, siteunseen said:

Here's the "Queen bean with sweet tea".

This has been like a ship's wheel for me, "driving me nuts" for the last 2 years. Finally starting to care about the cars again so I've drained the old fuel and will replace all filters tomorrow. Exmark is completely full BTW.

Sitting off and on for 2 years. It ain't good. LOL

But no sign of Red-Kote! Hurray me.

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Finally got around to buttoning up this little project. Now I know for my 2/72 240Z after completing draining the tank and replacing two fuel filters, OE on the firewall and precautionary one right out of the tank, 5 gallons of fuel puts my gauge on EMPTY. When it was dry as a bone the gauge needle wouldn't move and was a quarter of an inch below EMPTY. 

Lesson for me going foward: when my gauge gets to Empty I still have 5 gallons of fuel in the tank. I like knowing that to be positively true for my car. And Red-Kote is a fantastic tank liner as I have not seen any type of failure since 2015 when I lined the tank.

Good day.

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Too add more info from my experience today. I've realized what I thought was a long time sitting problem where I have to tap my float chambers with a rubber handled screwdriver to get mine to crank after a month or so turns out my lids were loose, not terribly loose but the 4 screws needed a few rounds to get them snug again.

That could be the reason the bowls were empty, evaporation from not snug lids? I know @dutchzcarguy said he had to pop his to. Maybe this would be helpful to you Mart.

Everything is back to normal now. I had leaking lids on start up which could be disastrous out on the freeway. I assume the new filters gave me better psi and caused the constant dripping of fuel onto my 6to1 header runners. 

Thank you all for the help over the years. Couldn't have been a better team effort from all of you. I'll always be in debt to CZCC members. :beer:

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3 hours ago, siteunseen said:

Too add more info from my experience today. I've realized what I thought was a long time sitting problem where I have to tap my float chambers with a rubber handled screwdriver to get mine to crank after a month or so turns out my lids were loose, not terribly loose but the 4 screws needed a few rounds to get them snug again.

That could be the reason the bowls were empty, evaporation from not snug lids? I know @dutchzcarguy said he had to pop his to. Maybe this would be helpful to you Mart.

Everything is back to normal now. I had leaking lids on start up which could be disastrous out on the freeway. I assume the new filters gave me better psi and caused the constant dripping of fuel onto my 6to1 header runners. 

Thank you all for the help over the years. Couldn't have been a better team effort from all of you. I'll always be in debt to CZCC members. :beer:

So spending all that time in the shop with the car was OK with your serpent friend?

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14 hours ago, siteunseen said:

the reason the bowls were empty, evaporation from not snug lids?

No.. they were tightly closed.  The problem there was no fuel into the bowls because the needle valves were clogged or to old and have worn needles. I cleaned them with some carb cleaner but now the temps are high it has no problem to start as there is enough fuel.. maybe when the temps are lower the problem comes back.. then i need some new needlevalves for the early 71 carbs.. (Yeah 2 different ones..) 

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Finally took some action on my car yesterday!!  I dropped the fuel tank.  Found all original hoses to be very crusty!  Tank was clean inside with just a little sediment.  Outside was in pretty good shape with just some surface rust here and there.  I'll be taking care of the rust and giving it a fresh coat of Eastwood's.  Ordered Stainless straps, a new filler hose, new through-grommets and a bunch of fuel line.  I am going to need some new hose clamps and prefer to stick with the same style of clamps, can anyone direct me to a good source?

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  • 2 weeks later...

Had tank exterior blasted and found one pinhole, so I decided to go the POR-15 route.  Cleaned inside of tank with Super Clean and 3 pieces of 1/2" chain to bash all the crap off the inside of tank while I was waiting for the POR-15 to arrive.  Used both quarts of POR cleaner/degreaser with the chain and a good rinse in between.  Rotated tank for about 3 hrs. with the POR Metal Prep inside, drained and used my heat gun to make sure inside of tank was bone dry.  Just when I thought it was dry, I kept seeing moisture inside.  Turns out the inner seams hold a fair bit of moisture, so I slowly moved the heat gun around the outside of the seams and I could look inside and see the moisture evaporating out, leaving a dry, gray seam, rather than a dark, moist seam.  Mixed up the coating and poured it in.  Rotated tank for about 45 minutes before draining excess out of the drain hole.  Continued to peer inside and rotate for another hour or so, until it looked like it was starting to kick and drained the rest of the excess.  Continued to rotate and look inside to assure that I didn't have any pooling.  When the coating was moving real slow, I set the tank upside down on the work bench.  The bottom of my tank was pretty clean, the top of the tank was a little more corroded due to moisture vap, and the pinhole was also on the top, so I wanted any pooling product up to, that also assured it didn't pool at the drain plug, orthe small slits in the bottom of the one baffle.  Checked on it a couple hours later and I have to say, I am pretty impressed.  It looks so good!

Tomorrow, I will give the outside a light sanding as some light flash rust has developed from all of the flushing/cleaning, and I'll give it a coat of satin black epoxy primer.  I think this will help to bolster the pinhole from the outside.  I've got all new braided lines and a new fill hose, so I'll probably be ready to install it on Tuesday.

Next up, MSA premium exhaust install from the stock exhaust manifold back.  Once that is in, I should be able to do a quick oil and tranny fluid change, radiator flush and get her back on the road!  It's been a few years since I've had her on the road, hopefully it will be exhaust/gas fume free!.

 

 

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4 hours ago, Patcon said:

Be sure it well cured!

What does the Por15 liner product look like?

Hi Charles…..It’s a durable clear, rock hard coating that seals the tank. I highly recommend it.

Guy

Edited by Diseazd
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4 hours ago, Diseazd said:

Hi Charles…..It’s a durable clear, rock hard coating that seals the tank. I highly recommend it.

Guy

It sounds like the Caswell material I used. Looked and smelled like two part epoxy.  Super hard when cured.

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Well, the POR treatment looks amazing!  Very happy with the results (and glad that job is behind me!).  Tried to remove the downpipe? from the stock exhaust header today.  The nuts didn't feel too rusty, but they wouldn't budge with the only (1/4" drive) ratchet I had.  Picked up a larger ratchet, extension and swivel and will try again tomorrow.  Soaked them good with PB Blaster and will take a torch with me tomorrow as well.

While I was under the car, I noticed that the soft clutch line that connects the clutch slave and clutch hard line was cracked, so I started fiddling with it (I had a new replacement in my parts bin!).  The clips were completely rusted and I could not get things turning.  I finally got the compression nut to turn in the soft line but realized that the compression nut was frozen to the hard line and was twisting it.  Finally got the clip free, but could not get the compression nut to budge from the hard line, so it looks like I'll be ordering a new hard line.

I need to put one more coat of paint on the outside of my refurbished fuel tank in the morning, then I'll try and remove the exhaust again.  clutch hard line MIGHT make it here by the end of the week and the Unicoils I needed for the 180 degree bend vent hose from the tank will be here Thursday, so I may get her back on the road by next weekend. Fingers crossed.

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Well, it wasn't exactly what I did with my Z today...

I got up early today to drive over to help a new friend, Rico, diagnose his 73 240Z. He took it to a shop that may not have known what they were doing, and someone else had come over to look at his car without giving him a clear diagnosis. The car is relatively unmolested and still has the original flat tops. (That's for you, @Captain Obvious. )

I took out the plugs (fouled), and I broke out the compression gauge. The readings were 150-0-130-190-175-175. I removed the valve cover and bumped the engine to check the valve lash on cylinder 2. The exhaust was at 0.012 inches. The intake was more like 1 foot. (Okay, I didn't measure it precisely, but my 0.029 feeler cleared with room to bounce around.) Well, there's your problem. There was no way the camshaft was going to operate the valve. I tried to change the valve lash, but I wasted most of my effort trying to turn the wrong nut. (I'm SO out of practice on valve adjustments.) I did try to turn the jamb nut, but someone used about 20 ugga-duggas on it. I quit before turning the nut into a cylinder.

After shooting some video and photos, I woke up a friend & long-time Z wrench (He should have been up by 10:30 AM anyway to enjoy a glorious morning. 😁) to verify it wasn't anything worse than I thought. After receiving his wise counsel, I advised Rico of a suggested course of action and buttoned up the car. It was at that point when I found the plug wires were not arranged in proper firing order. I didn't notice that when I pulled off the wires, but it was VERY obvious as I was putting them back on the plugs. I did have Rico start the car, and it idled fine. I didn't attempt to lean out the carbs since I didn't want to risk anything with the one rocker able to just about dance around.

After the tools were safely back in my car, one of his neighbors asked if I might know what was wrong with his car. He said he had to pull the main fuse or else the "tail lights" would be on. So I went over and showed him how the switch on his brake pedal wasn't being actuated by the brake pedal. I love the softball questions. LOL 

Here are the plugs:

#1 is on the right.

Plugs 1.jpg

#6 is on the left.

Plugs 2.jpg

Here's how loose the rocker is on #2.

 

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Well, I have now officially disconnected everything from the engine and trans, except for the motor mount bolts and the one trans mount bolt.  Engine hoist and engine stand are at the ready.  I think I'll get the engine and trans pulled next weekend and get the trans split from the engine and off to the trans shop for rebuild.  Once I get the engine on the stand, I'll have my work cut out for me just getting the intake and exhaust manifolds off!  Once I get the engine stripped, I'll be crating it up and sending it off to Datsun Spirit for a nice little rebuild.  Next chore will be stripping the engine compartment, removing doors, fenders and rear hatch, then off to the body shop.  I've dreamed of this day for a long time and I am pretty darn excited.  After rising two sons and seeing them through college, I can't tell you how many times I put this refresh on hold due to life's other priorities and now it is becoming a reality.  Radiator will be back from the radiator shop tomorrow, looking spiffy, all repaired with a fresh coat of paint, and my brake booster should be done at Harmon Classic Brakes in a week.  I think I'll order new bumpers, fuel/brake and clutch hardlines and BRE spook and spoiler this evening.  I guess I am committed now! (or maybe my wife SHOULD commit me now!) LOL 

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7 minutes ago, astrohog said:

Well, I have now officially disconnected everything from the engine and trans, except for the motor mount bolts and the one trans mount bolt.  Engine hoist and engine stand are at the ready.  I think I'll get the engine and trans pulled next weekend and get the trans split from the engine and off to the trans shop for rebuild.  Once I get the engine on the stand, I'll have my work cut out for me just getting the intake and exhaust manifolds off!  Once I get the engine stripped, I'll be crating it up and sending it off to Datsun Spirit for a nice little rebuild.  Next chore will be stripping the engine compartment, removing doors, fenders and rear hatch, then off to the body shop.  I've dreamed of this day for a long time and I am pretty darn excited.  After rising two sons and seeing them through college, I can't tell you how many times I put this refresh on hold due to life's other priorities and now it is becoming a reality.  Radiator will be back from the radiator shop tomorrow, looking spiffy, all repaired with a fresh coat of paint, and my brake booster should be done at Harmon Classic Brakes in a week.  I think I'll order new bumpers, fuel/brake and clutch hardlines and BRE spook and spoiler this evening.  I guess I am committed now! (or maybe my wife SHOULD commit me now!) LOL 

I recommend considering the purchase of an induction heater if you think the intake manifold might be a challenge. It could help you break some of those bolts loose.

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3 minutes ago, astrohog said:

Would an induction heater be preferable over the old torch method?

It could have some challenges in tight spaces. However, if there is a lot of grease on the engine, it is less likely to catch it on fire. Where you can use it, it will work quickly. They have about a 2 minutes duty cycle.

Here's a video where I used mine on a sway bar end link: 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Okay, it was Caffeine and Chrome time again. The 240Z wouldn't start, so I jumped in the 260Z to meet my friend, Paul, who drove his Black-Gold 280ZX. (I still think he needs to do the 80s 'stashe and 'fro to complete the look.) The Georgia Z Club will be the featured club at the next Caffeine and Chrome, so I used that to coax a couple of people to come out this month to check it out. This month we had 2 240Zs, a 260Z, a 280Z, a 280ZX and a 300ZX (Z1). Next month I'm hoping the missing generations show up.

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25 minutes ago, SteveJ said:

Okay, it was Caffeine and Chrome time again. The 240Z wouldn't start, so I jumped in the 260Z to meet my friend, Paul, who drove his Black-Gold 280ZX. (I still think he needs to do the 80s 'stashe and 'fro to complete the look.) The Georgia Z Club will be the featured club at the next Caffeine and Chrome, so I used that to coax a couple of people to come out this month to check it out. This month we had 2 240Zs, a 260Z, a 280Z, a 280ZX and a 300ZX (Z1). Next month I'm hoping the missing generations show up.

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Looks like a 66 Impala in the background. 

Takes me back to when I had a 66 SS396 Impala. Big block, Turbo 400, posi, smoked the tires down to the cords real quick.

I miss that car.

 

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