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HELP Wanted! How do I remove this shift shaft/striking rod in 280Z 5 speed?


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Im rebuilding a 5 speed from a 77 280Z and want to include the seal and o-ring on the striking rod assembly in the tail of the trans. It was clearly a leak. There is no access hole in the side of the case as shown in the service manual. How do I remove this retaining pin on the striking rod? I tried to fabricate a tool out of a small c-clamp but cannot get in there...no room. Has anyone overcome this? I hate to do this complete overhaul without this seal. 

Rear Housing Interior SHIFT SHAFT and Gutter.jpg

Screenshot 2021-07-20 093012.png

side access hole.png

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This has been discussed and solutions provided in another thread, do a bit of searching. 

It is much trickier in the early 5 speeds that don't have the reverse lockout device. That pin is quite tight.

I built a little press thingy that slips over the rod, but the easier method is to drill the case where the reverse lockout would be, use a punch to get the pin out,  then put an NPT pipe plug back in the new hole to seal it. 

Once you find the thread and read what others have done, the solution will come to you

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Like zKars said, there is a thread that details methods to remove it.

I have used a small massive hammer, one with as much weight as possible and small. Unscrew the nut until it is flush with the end of the thread. Tap it with the hammer until it comes loose.

If it won't release than add heat to the striking lever area around the pin and tap it out. Don't heat the pin. You wont the lever to expand, but not the pin itself.

If you damage the pin, you can still get them through Nissan or local parts store. I think the size is 9.5mm IIRC. Ask for a 9.5mm cotter pin.

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1 hour ago, EuroDat said:

Like zKars said, there is a thread that details methods to remove it.

I have used a small massive hammer, one with as much weight as possible and small. Unscrew the nut until it is flush with the end of the thread. Tap it with the hammer until it comes loose.

If it won't release than add heat to the striking lever area around the pin and tap it out. Don't heat the pin. You wont the lever to expand, but not the pin itself.

If you damage the pin, you can still get them through Nissan or local parts store. I think the size is 9.5mm IIRC. Ask for a 9.5mm cotter pin.

Thanks all. I appreciate the input, but please....tell me how a hammer is going to fit down there. I cannot remove that shaft without removing the striking lever. Catch 22. I ran out of patience searching threads but I will keep trying. 

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I think it's in this thread, below, somewhere.  It's very difficult and the method you end up using will probably depend on your own individual skills with various tools, and knowledge of how metal things work.  One key point seems to be to brace the rod by putting a solid object between it and the case, so that you can apply force without damaging the rod.

 

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7 hours ago, SteveKinSC said:

There is no access hole in the side of the case

He ain't got no access hole...

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Posted (edited)

I spent hours on this trying many ideas. What finally worked for me was....

1) Loosen the nut until it is flush with end of the bolt.

2) Heat fork...several cycles.

3) Then, I used a long 3/8 socket extension. I rested the side of the male end of the socket extension on the nut head. Then, I hit the side of the extension with a bfh until it released. To be clear...I was not resting the end of the socket extension on the nut end and reaching a hammer inside the case. The socket extension is horizontal....parallel to the transmission shafts. The side of the male end of the socket extension rests on the nut. I hit the side of the shaft from just outside of the case with a bfh...being careful to not let the extension slip off of the nut head. This is hard to explain with words so I hope I am being somewhat clear. After several solid hits, the bolt moved.

Edited by jonathanrussell
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I accomplished this in a similar way. Piece of steel bar into the case resting on the nut end. Hold the other end and hit as close a possible to the nut

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Thanks everyone...Its clear its patience and persistence. 

10 hours ago, jonathanrussell said:

I spent hours on this trying many ideas. What finally worked for me was....

1) Loosen the nut until it is flush with end of the bolt.

2) Heat fork...several cycles.

3) Then, I used a long 3/8 socket extension. I rested the side of the male end of the socket extension on the nut head. Then, I hit the side of the extension with a bfh until it released. To be clear...I was not resting the end of the socket extension on the nut end and reaching a hammer inside the case. The socket extension is horizontal....parallel to the transmission shafts. The side of the male end of the socket extension rests on the nut. I hit the side of the shaft from just outside of the case with a bfh...being careful to not let the extension slip off of the nut head. This is hard to explain with words so I hope I am being somewhat clear. After several solid hits, the bolt moved.

Thanks. Your description is clear. That sounds like the only option short of a special tool. I will persist! 

 

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Posted (edited)

FYI... After practicing once on a junk transmission, I drilled an access hole so I could get a drift pin in there to drive out the wedge pin like ZKars said. I then tapped the hole I had made and threaded a bolt into it to seal it up. You just have to be very careful in locating where to drill on the outside. I'll add a photograph tomorrow.

BTW  I also tried to fabricate a small c-clamp to no avail. 

Edited by Jeff Berk
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10 hours ago, Jeff Berk said:

FYI... After practicing once on a junk transmission, I drilled an access hole so I could get a drift pin in there to drive out the wedge pin like ZKars said. I then tapped the hole I had made and threaded a bolt into it to seal it up. You just have to be very careful in locating where to drill on the outside. I'll add a photograph tomorrow.

BTW  I also tried to fabricate a small c-clamp to no avail. 

Thanks. I was afraid to drill the housing but its clear Nissan knew this sucked so they provided an access hole later. When you plugged the hole, was there a clearance issue inside? Any concern with interfering with the internals? 

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there hole that is being used to access the pin is the hole for the reverse lockout mech. I doubt nissan was concerned about the pin removal.

That being said, I think a rattle hammer and backing up the rod with something solid (metal) would release the pin quickly.

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18 minutes ago, Dave WM said:

there hole that is being used to access the pin is the hole for the reverse lockout mech. I doubt nissan was concerned about the pin removal.

That being said, I think a rattle hammer and backing up the rod with something solid (metal) would release the pin quickly.

Oh...good point. Im determined to go at this thing this weekend. 

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slow brute force is a good way to bend things. You want sharp small impacts. Double nut it so you have something solid to rattle on, back up the rod with metal (not wood), hit it with the impact hammer. I learned my lesson about using impact when I tried to remove the rear stub axle with a slide hammer. It was the 1st time I used the slide hammer with the puller designed for hubs. The fitting did not exactly match up hole wise, but I was able to loosely get it to fit with some wheel nuts. I tried whacking the hammer a bunch, nothing happened. I was looking at youtube some some mentioned getting the puller on tight.

I just assumed even loosed the force would be transmitted eventually with the slide hammer. I went back and did a better job and got the fitting on tight to the hub. One half a$$ try and the hub popped out. Sharp impacts and dont let the force dissipate (like the rod would do if not backed up) is crucial.

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