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Is My Clutch Seized to Flywheel?


johnstronaut

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Hey guys,

       I finally got my '76 280z back on the ground after replacing the clutch, flywheel, and a few other components while I was there. The Clutch is a Centerforce Stage II and a lightened Fidanza flywheel. The very first time I ran it, it went right into reverse and I back it out of the garage. I then realized that I really needs to bleed my brakes, as they were almost none existant. I shut the car off and pushed it back into the garage and called it a night. I bled the brakes the next day, I then started it it'll no longer go into gear, which was the original issue. Goes into gear fine with the car off. Slave cylinder moves a considerable distance when the clutch is depressed and I can see the pressure plate being actuated when it's depressed. 

           For those of you not familiar with the Fidanza flywheel, there's a green paint that's on the contact surface of the flywheel. Before installing the clutch I cleaned that surface with brakeclean. I noticed some of the paint had come off when wiping it clean. I know it's far-fetched, but is it possible the brand new clutch and flywheel have somehow already seized because I only put it into gear once then let it sit over night? This has been a clutch job from hell and I'm just trying to drive my Z again. Any feedback is greatly appreciated. 

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 How about a bad? flywheel bushing or bearing (can't remember which it is) causing the trans input shaft to spin even when the clutch pedal is depressed? How difficult was it to push the trans the last half inch when you installed it? Any other symptoms like noise, pedal feel, odors etc?

Edited by Mark Maras
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2 minutes ago, Mark Maras said:

 How about a bad? flywheel bushing or bearing (can't remember which it is) causing the trans input shaft to spin even when the clutch pedal is depressed? How difficult was it to push the trans the last half inch when you installed it?

I replaced the bushing when I had everything off. The trans went in fairly easy when I installed it besides getting the shaft to spline on the clutch. I also feel like I'd hear the bushing rotating in the housing if that were the case. 

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Just now, Mark Maras said:

 I agree. Just wanted to rule out the obvious. Any other symptoms? When the problem started, one clutch ago, did it gradually go bad or fail with one push of the clutch?

The original issue was thought it be the pressure plate, but after replaced both the master and slave and dropping the trans, the knob that the clutch fork rides on had completely punched through the fork, which was preventing the pressure plate from being depressed. I'm just confused as to why it went into gear the night before. I bled it again just in case some air had seeped into the lines overnight, still nothing. 

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43 minutes ago, johnstronaut said:

           For those of you not familiar with the Fidanza flywheel, there's a green paint that's on the contact surface of the flywheel. Before installing the clutch I cleaned that surface with brakeclean. I noticed some of the paint had come off when wiping it clean. I know it's far-fetched, but is it possible the brand new clutch and flywheel have somehow already seized because I only put it into gear once then let it sit over night? This has been a clutch job from hell and I'm just trying to drive my Z again. Any feedback is greatly appreciated. 

I'm not familiar with the green coating but generally, the metal surfaces should be clean metal.  No coatings.  It sounds like that green coating might have been meant to be removed completely, and that you did glue the flywheel to the clutch disc.  You should take it back apart and clean those surfaces and you can probably save the parts.  

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Here's a picture, and instructions.  I don't know what the green stuff is.  Seems like aluminum might be anodized.  That green looks pretty thick though.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fiz-186501/media/instructions

https://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/FIZ-FIDANZA_PERF_Flywheel_Instructions_2013.pdf

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Alright, it gets weirder.  Since it worked once, you might be able to just break it free and break it in as Fidanza suggests in this document.  I'd call Fidanza directly and tell them what you did and what's happening.

Weird stuff with poor communication on Fidanza's part.  Good luck.

http://www.fidanza.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/NEW-GREEN-COATING-ADDS-STYLE-PROTECTION-.pdf

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5 minutes ago, siteunseen said:

Another important spec is the actual pedal from the floor distance.  Can't remember the inches right off, sorry but that may be something to measure before you pull it all back apart.  The distance is in the FSM.  Good luck.

My aluminum flywheel was shiny as a mirror.  Tifton or Tilton brand?

I did adjust the pedal height according to the FSM prior to tearing the trans apart and replacing the internals. I suppose it wouldn't hurt to check again. 

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2 minutes ago, johnstronaut said:

I did adjust the pedal height according to the FSM prior to tearing the trans apart and replacing the internals. I suppose it wouldn't hurt to check again. 

If you got it in to reverse with no problem, that wouldn't seem to be the issue.  Plus you said that you can see the slave moving.  I'll bet this new coating they came up with absorbs certain solvents and gets soft.  I'd call them, they'll know.

STYLE coating.

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